Having problems with my daily driver civic
09-29-2009, 07:34 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Having problems with my daily driver civic
Hey I know this is s2ki but im having problems with my daily driver and its making me crazy to no end.
To be honest im quite fed up with people on honda-tech as they are just plain a$$es!
I have a s2k so im not totally out in left field
Anyways if anyone in here has knowledge of civics and can help me out it would be greatly appreciated!
I have a 96 spec JDM ITR complete swap in my 00 civic EM1. The car has the obd2b to obd2a conversion harness with the matching p73 ecu. There are no check engine lights but the car has a terrible bog in the low range rpm.
It seem like you can floor the car in any gear and if the rpm is below 4 grand the car has absolutely no power. I have mini vans passing me! The car pulls strong and hard in vtec though but it seems like I have to rev the cr@p out of it to get any power at all!
Im getting terrible fuel mileage as well! I have swapped FPR, ECT, plugs, wires, distributors, tps, IAT, map sensor, new fuel filter, swapped fuel pump, O2 sensor, no luck! I also did a valve adjustment too!
One clue is the car seems to have trouble starting also. It takes an extra half crank to start the car and it stumbles then clears! I have a fuel pressure gauge on the car and the fuel pressure drops from about 35-40psi zero after about 10minutes.... is this normal? I also hear a strange noise coming from the gas tank....? If i remove the vent to tank from the black charcoal canister the sound is very audible with the car not running it is makes a strange noise for about 3 seconds then goes away?
One more thing to mention is when swapping different things i tried my buddies FPR off his GSR and when i pulled the return line hose from his FPR it was full of fuel even though his car had been sitting for at least a month! Mine on the other hand was bone dry? Is it possible there is a problem with my Fuel return?
I have literally tried everything except swap the injectors! This thing is making me crazy!
Any help would be more than greatly appreciated!
To be honest im quite fed up with people on honda-tech as they are just plain a$$es!
I have a s2k so im not totally out in left field
Anyways if anyone in here has knowledge of civics and can help me out it would be greatly appreciated!
I have a 96 spec JDM ITR complete swap in my 00 civic EM1. The car has the obd2b to obd2a conversion harness with the matching p73 ecu. There are no check engine lights but the car has a terrible bog in the low range rpm.
It seem like you can floor the car in any gear and if the rpm is below 4 grand the car has absolutely no power. I have mini vans passing me! The car pulls strong and hard in vtec though but it seems like I have to rev the cr@p out of it to get any power at all!
Im getting terrible fuel mileage as well! I have swapped FPR, ECT, plugs, wires, distributors, tps, IAT, map sensor, new fuel filter, swapped fuel pump, O2 sensor, no luck! I also did a valve adjustment too!
One clue is the car seems to have trouble starting also. It takes an extra half crank to start the car and it stumbles then clears! I have a fuel pressure gauge on the car and the fuel pressure drops from about 35-40psi zero after about 10minutes.... is this normal? I also hear a strange noise coming from the gas tank....? If i remove the vent to tank from the black charcoal canister the sound is very audible with the car not running it is makes a strange noise for about 3 seconds then goes away?
One more thing to mention is when swapping different things i tried my buddies FPR off his GSR and when i pulled the return line hose from his FPR it was full of fuel even though his car had been sitting for at least a month! Mine on the other hand was bone dry? Is it possible there is a problem with my Fuel return?
I have literally tried everything except swap the injectors! This thing is making me crazy!
Any help would be more than greatly appreciated!
09-30-2009, 08:13 AM
#2
Sounds like a fuel issue. You're losing pressure. Until you fix that, it's pretty much useless to troubleshoot anything else.
You're starving for fuel. Car goes lean. ECU knows it through the knock sensor (you got one?), therefore pulls timing.
Is there a way for you to monitor, maybe even log timing? Get one of those more expensive OBDII scanners, plug it in, it should have frame freeze, or whatever it's called. They also have OBDII plugs that plug into USB in laptops. Just gonna need to find appropriate sofware. That'll let you log your timing, injector duty, fuel trims, etc. Then post the data here, I'm sure there are a few ppl here who'll know what to look for.
But get the fuel pressure drop issue taken care of first.
You're starving for fuel. Car goes lean. ECU knows it through the knock sensor (you got one?), therefore pulls timing.
Is there a way for you to monitor, maybe even log timing? Get one of those more expensive OBDII scanners, plug it in, it should have frame freeze, or whatever it's called. They also have OBDII plugs that plug into USB in laptops. Just gonna need to find appropriate sofware. That'll let you log your timing, injector duty, fuel trims, etc. Then post the data here, I'm sure there are a few ppl here who'll know what to look for.
But get the fuel pressure drop issue taken care of first.
09-30-2009, 08:24 AM
#3
Something's going on with the fuel. If you have a stock FPR, it will hold fuel pressure with the engine turned off for a few hours if not days, Definitely not dropping in 10 minutes.
SInce you already swapped FPRs, check where the fuel rail goes into the injectors for leaks. Check the fuel filter area for leaks. if nothing is leaking there, quite possibly you have a leaking injector.
SInce you already swapped FPRs, check where the fuel rail goes into the injectors for leaks. Check the fuel filter area for leaks. if nothing is leaking there, quite possibly you have a leaking injector.
09-30-2009, 08:59 AM
#4
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 4,389
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I had issues with power and car then would miss under load if I floor it and S & R put in on a dyno for me here in FL. Turns out my graph was pos and my car was making like 140 to 160whp in my S!!!
Turns out my Knock sensor was lose and they put in a new one and I don't think I have ever been this happy!!
Is there a way you can dyno and see the power curve, a/f ratio and all that stuff? I am sure you can figure it out in no time with a couple of dyno pulls if it is knock sensor or a/f issue (which should have been fixed if you changed O2?).
Turns out my Knock sensor was lose and they put in a new one and I don't think I have ever been this happy!!
Is there a way you can dyno and see the power curve, a/f ratio and all that stuff? I am sure you can figure it out in no time with a couple of dyno pulls if it is knock sensor or a/f issue (which should have been fixed if you changed O2?).
09-30-2009, 01:52 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yeah im thinking injectors as well because I have replaced the FPR with another one and it still loses fuel pressure within a few minutes and no there is no leaks I can assure this...I was trying to figure out a way of keeping the injectors in the rail but out of the intake manifold and pressurizing them to see if maybe one is stuck open...Maybe some zip ties from the plug to the rail?
I tried unplugging my knock sensor and running with a check engine light and still runs like absolute crap if not worse...(i know its not going to run better but I was thinking perhaps the safe mode map would make it run ok) I didnt go beating on the car by any means but the bog was just even more emphasized so I think something else is going on....
I tried unplugging my knock sensor and running with a check engine light and still runs like absolute crap if not worse...(i know its not going to run better but I was thinking perhaps the safe mode map would make it run ok) I didnt go beating on the car by any means but the bog was just even more emphasized so I think something else is going on....
09-30-2009, 02:28 PM
#7
99% of the time people blame problems on fuel when it is usually ignition or a vacuum leak. However, I think your problem is a fuel issue.
Some of things that you described, the dry fuel return line for example, are certainly not normal.
I had a little trouble following some of your descriptions. Are you saying that the fuel starts in the 40ish range and then goes to zero? If so, that is certainly not normal. IRRC a B series should be in the upper 30s.
I think we need more info to go on, but I am going to throw out a guess...
My guess is that you have an injector that is pissing fuel into the combustion chamber. At low rpms where the injector should be flowing a limited amount, it is dumping more fuel than the engine wants, you are running lean (which would account for your gas mileage), and the car drives like crap. However, when you finally get to the high rpm range your busted injector is still pissing in fuel, but the engine now requires a significant amount of fuel and it runs OK.
Some of things that you described, the dry fuel return line for example, are certainly not normal.
I had a little trouble following some of your descriptions. Are you saying that the fuel starts in the 40ish range and then goes to zero? If so, that is certainly not normal. IRRC a B series should be in the upper 30s.
I think we need more info to go on, but I am going to throw out a guess...
My guess is that you have an injector that is pissing fuel into the combustion chamber. At low rpms where the injector should be flowing a limited amount, it is dumping more fuel than the engine wants, you are running lean (which would account for your gas mileage), and the car drives like crap. However, when you finally get to the high rpm range your busted injector is still pissing in fuel, but the engine now requires a significant amount of fuel and it runs OK.
Trending Topics
09-30-2009, 04:04 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Mr.E.G.,Sep 30 2009, 02:28 PM
99% of the time people blame problems on fuel when it is usually ignition or a vacuum leak. However, I think your problem is a fuel issue.
Some of things that you described, the dry fuel return line for example, are certainly not normal.
I had a little trouble following some of your descriptions. Are you saying that the fuel starts in the 40ish range and then goes to zero? If so, that is certainly not normal. IRRC a B series should be in the upper 30s.
I think we need more info to go on, but I am going to throw out a guess...
My guess is that you have an injector that is pissing fuel into the combustion chamber. At low rpms where the injector should be flowing a limited amount, it is dumping more fuel than the engine wants, you are running lean (which would account for your gas mileage), and the car drives like crap. However, when you finally get to the high rpm range your busted injector is still pissing in fuel, but the engine now requires a significant amount of fuel and it runs OK.
Some of things that you described, the dry fuel return line for example, are certainly not normal.
I had a little trouble following some of your descriptions. Are you saying that the fuel starts in the 40ish range and then goes to zero? If so, that is certainly not normal. IRRC a B series should be in the upper 30s.
I think we need more info to go on, but I am going to throw out a guess...
My guess is that you have an injector that is pissing fuel into the combustion chamber. At low rpms where the injector should be flowing a limited amount, it is dumping more fuel than the engine wants, you are running lean (which would account for your gas mileage), and the car drives like crap. However, when you finally get to the high rpm range your busted injector is still pissing in fuel, but the engine now requires a significant amount of fuel and it runs OK.
The fuel pressure gauge reads a constant i think 36psi (going off memory) at idle...Either way it is in the upper 30s as you stated. This is with the vacuum line attatched to the FPR at idle...
What I was trying to describe was after you turn the car off...you can wait for about 10-20 minutes and the fuel pressure begins to drop on the gauge and eventually reaches 0psi.
The car idles perfectly at around 850 no surging or anything of that nature....
10-01-2009, 04:59 PM
#9
Ok, time to temporarily swap out the TPS. It's worth a try. The potentiometer can (and sometimes does) develop a bad spot. If it's in the mid-range, say 20-50% open range, then your ECU is gonna see wrong TPS voltage, and therefore react accordingly, you know, lean, or rich, retard timing, etc.
Know how to check it with an Ohmmeter? figure out the pins, and watch the resistance on it, while your buddy is slowly going through the range of the throttle.
Know how to check it with an Ohmmeter? figure out the pins, and watch the resistance on it, while your buddy is slowly going through the range of the throttle.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
SpiritofSenna
S2000 Under The Hood
0
05-12-2015 04:02 PM
Metcalfe
S2000 Engine Management
3
06-27-2013 12:34 PM