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questions for everyone thats owned an ek and/or eg

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Old 11-03-2007, 08:34 PM
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Default questions for everyone thats owned an ek and/or eg

looking at picking up a hatch and had a few questions.

1) the first thing most people point out is that eg's are lighter than ek, but something i looked up said a base eg is 2030, but an si eg is 2270, with an ek being 2258. is the only difference in the two eg's the motor that causes the weight bump? is the ek generally 200lbs heavier than an eg?

2)i saw an ek yesterday (manual) and it didnt have a tach, is this common?

3)can u have a rear strut bar and keep the back seats?

4) im guess because of the weight even with a b18 a hatch would still get pretty sweet gas mileage, yes or no?

more questions to come as i think them up
Old 11-03-2007, 10:51 PM
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If you don't mind me asking, what is eg, ek and b18 ?
Old 11-04-2007, 01:49 AM
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Its chassis code designations for civic hatchbacks, eg being the 92-95 model year, and ek being 96-00. The b18 is the 1.8 litre version of the b series motor. All b series motors (b16, b18, specially built b20) fit in eg's and ek's. Same as my s2000 being an ap2 with an f22c motor.
Old 11-04-2007, 09:55 AM
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the ek is much closer in weight.

the variance in weight of the eg's come down to options. air condditioning did not come standard on the cx and dx models. it was added at the dealer. so that 2080 curb weight does not include that. there are also little things like the addition of the rear hatch wiper which doesnt come on the cx model but is often found on the dx model as an upgrade from the dealer. also, the cx model did not come with a passenger side mirror. all of the difference in weight from the vx, cx, and dx are from little stupid crap like this. the vx had lighte weight alloys. the cx and dx had steel wheels. etc etc etc. stupid little things like that. in other words dont cross shop these models based on manufacturer claimed curb weight as it will not be a true comparison if they have the little add ons. there is effectively no difference.

the exception would be the si model. the si's engine is slightly heavier due to the addition of vtec components. the si also comes with rear disk breaks, ac, rear wiper, front anti roll bar, and the big thing, the power sun roof. this results in more weight. however, with the exception of the sunroof all of the extra stuff are things that you would more than likely add.

if you want any type of performance out of the cx, vx, or dx you will need to upgrade to bigger brakes and dics in teh rear. you will also want anti roll bars. trust me when i say that in an eg, coilovers alone dont make the car handle well. antiroll bars are a must.

as far as the tach thing goes, that's normal on both ek and eg lower end models. if i recall correctly the si and vx models were the only eg's to have tachs. i dont think any of the eks had tachs since they only came in cx and dx. im pretty sure that's right.

on the eg, the rear seats fold down and im certain you can put a rear strut tower bar with the seats folded but im farily certain you can keep it with the seats upright. it's been a while but im pretty sure the strut towers are behind the seat.

yes, either car would get good gas mileage with an ls engine. i had a 94 with a b20 and i got close to 40 mpg with conservative driving.

also, the terms eg and ek are used inappropriately here. an eg or eg6 to be correct is only the chassis code of the civic sir and ek is only the chassis code for the ek9 civic type r respectively. american and canadian civics have different chassis codes regardless of what the ricers tell you. you c an look on the vin plate and see. i think my cx was an eh something.

if you are planning on getting the car and driving stock before your engine swap do not get 92-95 cx. they have an 8 valve engine and 70 crank hp. it sucks two dicks. super slow.

i would reccomend getting an ek as they are nicer in just about every way and identical in every other.

if you do get an eg get an si. you will never push teh car hard enough to tell the difference of the couple of hundred extra lbs. and an engine swap isnt entirely necessary. a single cam vtec set up with a crappy turbo kit and a good hondata tune will make the car much faster than an ls swap. with an ls swap you will run 15's. you can easily run 13's with a single cam turbo set up that is reliable.
Old 11-04-2007, 12:39 PM
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The main difference in weight between the two different models was mainly safety reinforcements in the doors to my knowledge (eg didnt have them, ek did)...The weight difference between the base models of the eg and the si version was the motor ,as well as the braking components as stated above.

Lower model eg's and ek's were rarely found with tachometers...but i would assume if you are going to mod either car you'll swap the motor, and with that swap just get the necessary data that you'll need.

I havent had my rear seats in my eg for quite a while now, so I dont know about the strut bar situation. But as previously stated, focus mainly on coilovers and SWAY BARS (cant stress that enough). Stiffening up the rear up top like that in a FWD car will make the chassis bind up too much which will lead to the car pushing like a pig...something you definitely dont want. But each car is different, especially since base eg's and ek's were usually daily driven to hell everyday of their lives.

I have a built b18c1 with a jackson racing supercharger in my eg...Im a college student so i usually only drive it on the weekends and bike to class during the week, but I can get close to 300 miles to a tank (usually takes 8.5-9 gallons to fill up) if i stick to the highways...

EG FTW!!!!
Old 11-04-2007, 02:12 PM
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Thanks everyone, youv been a major help. Ive been trying to find an ek thats already had a disc brake swap in the back but its hard to find any modded hatch that still has the interior intact.
Old 11-05-2007, 07:21 AM
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both cars are substantially light weight and can basically fit any of your b series motors (h, k, f) with a few modds. gas issues hav been normal as far as my experience. and everthing can stay with strut bars, even the rear strut bar that bolts on where the rear passneger seat belts are. if u were to choose, i'd suggest getting a 94 eg si there for you can get the 4 disk brakes instead of having drum brakes in the rear. this will save you time and money in the future of swaping. not only that but you will have the advantage of already having a vtec harness. and to top it all off, u'll have the only "real OEM" motorized sunroof honda provided from the factory. hahaaha...

oh, also the 94 si came with passenger air bags.

scott
Old 11-05-2007, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by flush,Nov 4 2007, 06:12 PM
Thanks everyone, youv been a major help. Ive been trying to find an ek thats already had a disc brake swap in the back but its hard to find any modded hatch that still has the interior intact.
You can use Integra rear discs, they're likely much easier to find. The '92 to '95 Si hatch was a really slow seller. The EX coupe came along in '94 and that was seen as the more attractive vehicle, at least at the time.

I had a '94 Civic EX coupe, which was more or less a Si coupe with rear drums. I always wanted a Si hatch but they were basically impossible to find used, even in 1994 or 1995.
Fun car.
Old 11-06-2007, 05:07 PM
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I've owned both and currently have an ITR-powered EG. A lot of basic info has been said here but a few things have been left out.


What are your plans for this car? Daily driver? Track toy? Both?

I ask because you mention weight, mods, gas mileage, and a swap in your first post. We could fill thousands of thread pages discussing that. If you clarify your expectations for the car, it would be easier to discuss.

The EG is usually the hatch of choice because most '94+ OEM Integra parts are a direct bolt-on. Since the Integra was manufactured for 8 yrs, there are more than enough new, used, and aftermarket parts to go around. While many of OEM Integra parts will also bolt-on the EK, many are not a direct bolt-on. Many of the OEM parts needed for direct bolt-on only come from the '99-00 Civic SI.

I honestly wouldn't worry about the weight of either. If you are concerned about it, I'd pass on the SI model as the reinforced sunroof adds weight up high and effects your center of gravity. If you just want a fun DD, then you don't really need rear disk brakes either.

Do you want a project car or something already fixed up? I ask because most EG's are 12-15 yrs old now and will need new chassis seals and suspension bushings. Since the EK was made from '96-00, you may not have to invest in those areas just yet.

You can run a rear strut bar in the EG with the seats up. If you run a "tower style" bar you only have to remove the plastic interior shock covers. Some "straight style" bars require you to cut plastic for install. You CAN NOT run a rear strut bar in a EK without cutting interior plastic. You access the rear shock through the rear speaker holes, which are elevated to window height. (Not my car - but see pic)



If you want to research more, I'd suggest you cruise the FAQ here http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1998336
Old 11-06-2007, 06:53 PM
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I've had an EK hatch. Here's something that people dont' know:

Only Japan has the EK hatch. Every other "EK" is actually an EJ and the chassis is not the same as the Type-R. In other words, don't expect tight turns! If you want handling over looks, then EG is it.

the hatch does not have a tach. Tachs are usually for the EX or Si model, but that generation has the Si coupe. The gearing is very tall and its hard to misshift (and accelerate).

However, if you do an engine swap then that's different.


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