Mark this thread as Sold

FS: Modded NA 2006 Sebring (CA / 23.5k)

Closed Thread Subscribe

Thread Tools

09-12-2015, 06:01 PM

LostMotion

Thread Starter

Join Date: Nov 2006

Posts: 5,217

Likes: 0

Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

FS: Modded NA 2006 Sebring (CA / 23.5k)

Name: Jeremy Johnson
Location: Burbank, CA
Year & Model: 2006 S2000
Means of Contact: PM
Mileage: 61,500
23,500 Negotiable

Modded S2000 for sale. This car is a race horse and drives like one. The power band is really nothing like a stock S2000. I am original owner and have probably spent just a bit more on the car in mods than the purchase price. The car is not loud and does not drone. It is very drive-able on the road and runs great on Cali pump gas.

More than likely I will be parting the car out, but it will be a couple weeks before I am ready to pull the head and get down to business so I thought I would throw it out there to see if there was any interest as-is. Given the mods sending it out of state may be the best option. This car will not smog in CA.

This is quite a special car, it is not just a bunch parts thrown on a chassis. It is a complete package and drives like one. I should say as well, it "feels" like a new car would, everything is very solid -- no bushing play, steering rack is tight, etc.

Mods:
Endyn 12:1 compression ported cylinder head
OEM AP1 Cams
Toda cam gears
Mugen intake (replica)
J's Racing throttle body
Endyn ported intake manifold
J's Racing header
High flow cat (70mm)
ASM 70mm exhaust
AP1 flywheel
AEM EMS (version 1)
ASM FRP Hood
Amuse style Hardtop (these tops have two layers, inner and outer; the inner layer on my top is exposed carbon fiber and the outer layer is FRP)
Soft top delete
C-West front and rear bumbers
Racing Gear JTC N1 Bestex coilovers (10k springs installed, also have 14s)
Cusco front sway bar
OEM 2008 CR rear sway bar
Gloss black Volk CE28N staggered
Nitto NT-05 (95% new)
ASM SR-VI drive seat
Comptech X-brace
Cusco rear tie bar
4.5lb LiFePO4 battery (23 pounds lighter than stock)
J's Racing ETD

The Good, The Bad and the Ugly (in no particular order):
- About 2,680 pounds with half-tank of gas
- Original cylinder head is in a box and will come with the car, it has less than 15k miles on it.
- You will potentially need it because the the current head will need to be serviced in the next 10k miles. Compression is down in one cylinder a bit; it is something on the exhaust side of the head, maybe a valve seat or something like that. Been that way for ~5k miles (or more). No perceptible impact on power... However, the head has about 45k miles on it and the valve train should probably be redone within 10k miles. I can give some advice here based on my experience.
- Tires are new
- AP2 cams and OEM cam gears are included
- Clutch has about 10k miles on it and has been babied (can't say that about my first clutch!). The AP1 flywheel makes a huge difference, the AP2 is just too heavy.
- Stock catalytic converter is included
- Brake pads are probably 75%ish, rotors have 1 light track day.
- Stock driver seat is included, only has ~10k miles on it, looks brand new
- Interior looks great for 10 year old car
- Right front wheel was slightly damaged on installation, the installer compensated me for the damage but I continued to use the wheel -- now for about 50k miles. It is fine for the street, I can't recommend tracking it although I personally have. Supposedly, on a balance machine it has a slight wobble, but I have never been able to feel it on the car at any speed. The damage was that the wheel came off the car when coming off the rack so the lower arm hit the inside of the wheel. They did not put the wheel bolts on...
- The one downside of the ECU on the car is that the Air Conditioning at idle bogs the motor a bit, the ECU does not allow for compensating for AC with more gas at idle. The car will not die with the AC on at idle, but the revs drop and the idle gets choppy. AC itself works great and is fine on the freeway (or anything except sitting still)
- One upside to the ECU is that the Honda traction control is disabled permanently.
- Another downside to the ECU is that it becomes increasingly hard to start under 35 to 40 degrees, again the problem is the ECU just doesn't provide the extra fuel needed, once warm it is fine.
- The car was completely repainted about 10k miles ago, the front bumper does have quite a bit of chipping on it and trunk has a bit of flaking around the 3rd break light. Otherwise it looks good.
- Spent quite a bit of time on the hardtop to reduce wind noise and get the fitment just right so there was no rubbing.

If I were to keep this car, I would reinstall the original head, possibly with an upgraded valve train and a port job (but no decking), then I would get a Hondata reflash and have a custom tune. All in you are looking $2k to $3k. Really the only downside to the current ECU is the bogging of the AC at idle and starting in really cold weather, so if you are okay with that then current ECU is fine.

Anyway, a lot of information above, but owning a car like this isn't turn key. It is however super unique and I get people coming up to me all the time to talk about the car. Also, there are few cars that can hang with this in the canyons.