LS Headers Thread
 

No thread dedicated to this and it's an important part of the build. This thread is for N/A Applications.

LIST OF OPTIONS THAT WORK WITH IM MOTOR PLATES:

Flyin Miata headers: (Import Muscle - Import Muscle LSx Swap Headers #S2KSWAPHEADER)

Hooker block hugger headers: (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...3hkr/overview/)
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...ac2a6c83d.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...fe6d68edb.jpeg


Stock LS7 manifolds (modifications required):
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...2b7ed22c85.jpg

2010+ Camaro manifolds are rumored to fit (No pictures yet)

Trailblazer SS manifolds (no pictures yet)


F-Body BBK 1-7/8 Long Tubes DO NOT CLEAR:
Driver Side:
Attachment 162471

Passenger Side:
Attachment 162472

A turbo header thread exist haha. As for downwards it gets a little more tricky depending on what motor mounts.

So far we know that a lot of cast truck manifolds(trailblazer SS in my case) fit well with the flange cut off and replaced with a V-band.

Import Muscle sells the Miata headers for those of you using motor plates. Doubt they would work with the motor mounts. Beyond that a lot of block huggers will work depending on the size of your starter. I have some really good data and measurements if you need it. We had to assemble it to have my turbo manifolds made without the car being present.

Let me know I have an entire front end and LS drawn in CAD so I can get you space measurements everywhere. Dont have the firewall but I can do it.
Attachment 162470

Oh shit Tehk, that's awesome. Good to know. What software do you model in?

The Flyin' Miata headers are said to work with the standard IM engine mount plates, but they will not work with traditional style motor mounts such as those made by AlloyWerks which use the Innovative poly mounts. I wasn't overly impressed with the Flyin' Miata headers... They were able to get me a set that didn't have the standard dimple on one side which is put there for steering shaft clearance on a Miata. But the collector size wasn't large enough (IMO) and the transition from the flange to collector tube wasn't pretty. With some work they could be better, but I might look into other block huggers first for larger collector size and slightly better quality.

The Hooker cast manifolds will work with both the IM engine mount plates as well as the AlloyWerks/Innovative mounts. These resemble the cast mani's from the Trailblazers that Tehk mentioned. They're heavy as hell, but not bad units. And depending on your starter of choice the standard outlet flange can be used.

I made it in autodesk inventor to get my turbo headers done. That is a simplified version for my header fabricator. The engine model I am using came with multiple starters, pumps, pans, accessory drives, and headers so I was able to try out a few setups. I've since redone it with the trapezoid frame rails, more accurate shock towers, and appropriate length frame rail for those of us who haven't cut theirs off like me. I plan on modeling the steering system as well. It really helps because a lot of companies making stuff like alternator brackets, accessories, and pumps will give you a sketch that you can use to confirm clearance. Saved me from going super charger since I couldn't find a system that would clear and still meet my four digit goal.

Thanks Tehk, you're a continued inspiration. I was aiming for a thread for people keeping the car NA but I suppose we could merge the threads since you seem to have all the data lol. I suspected about the same from the Flyin Miata headers as CoolGuy described.

Updated the OP with pics of the Long Tubes from my pull out. It looks like they'll clear the frame rails based on the 4.25" worth of clearance in Tehk's CAD images. The Passenger side will be razor thin and may end up needing to be lightly massaged. The only concern now is with the collector bending outward towards the frame rail as you can see on the driver side image.

I think those are gonna hit the firewall and maybe the steering shaft

Have some more photos.
Attachment 162274
Attachment 162275
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Attachment 162279

Here's what we managed to get to fit. It was too hard to do 4-1, yeah on paper and in cad you can do it but actually doing it is a different thing... a good 4-1 merge collector? Yeah good luck fitting that without scraping it everywhere on this build. I don't know how I'll make it work in future but that is a goal, maybe a slightly different approach, custom oval based unit.. This will always be NA or nitrous at most (150 shot in future with current engine). When I go to a 496 or so I want to buy an exhaust mockup kit and do it the 'real life cad' way. 2" primaries will really be nearly impossible otherwise. 1 7/88th/18nd or whatever fraction bullshit it was in the end is bad enough (I think 1 7/8 or 1 3/4?) but to a 3" after collector. I love using CAD but for the exhausts it really came down to make it fit with all the rest of the crap jammed in there already.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...62ac97da71.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...aadb743afd.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...c1d6540637.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.s2k...3e6b17a96a.jpg



I'm CADing a tuned resonator system currently to fit between the frame rails, fuel lines and clear of the diff/driveshaft, have the exhaust down to 95db cali spec so far with the help of the awesome K24 CRV guy at Flowmaster!
It's on schedule to be finished in Feb. I'm damn excited after waiting for three friggen years to get this thing rolling again.

Cheers

Looking good! My cad stuff was primarily for building turbo headers where the frame rail and towers are the only tough spots

I have some photos of working 4-1 setup that 2lejit used on his build a few years ago. Not nearly as complicated and definitely requires a narrow style collector.

https://instagram.com/p/7Ejq1YiHYW/