Sourcing Motor mounts, non-rigid (Solved!)
02-09-2018, 12:32 AM
#33
Glad to hear the polys are enjoyable to drive with! I recently bouht tehks mounts and starter, although I have read the “struggle” between starter and alternator im hoping to fiddle with it long enough to get the fbody alt and summit mini starter to work. I guess ill just have to see for myself and what im able to do.
coolguy, what altenator option did u end up with?
coolguy, what altenator option did u end up with?
Last edited by MorngWoodStewie; 02-09-2018 at 12:38 AM.
02-12-2018, 08:31 AM
#34
Glad to hear the polys are enjoyable to drive with! I recently bouht tehks mounts and starter, although I have read the “struggle” between starter and alternator im hoping to fiddle with it long enough to get the fbody alt and summit mini starter to work. I guess ill just have to see for myself and what im able to do.
coolguy, what altenator option did u end up with?
coolguy, what altenator option did u end up with?
03-03-2018, 10:18 AM
#35
[left]to easy; ill kiss some bracket for clearance
04-30-2018, 10:40 AM
#36
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Some more input on the Alloywerks mounts. I had interference between the steering shaft and the alternator, also with the dust boot on the steering shaft into the rack. I ended up slotting the mounting plates so we could move the engine over to the passenger side, the steering shaft u-joint clears the alt. now and the dust boot is still just grazing the alt. But I’m going to leave it like that.
As for the starter issue, I ended up using a powermaster 9509 and clicking it 180* (had to receive oil level sensor and install a low profile plug to give the proper room to do this) the starter is way out of the way now, clears the subframe by lots and I can even install and remove it with the mounts in place. This also gives much more room for the exhaust (still haven’t started making that).
another note we ended running out of room on the Alloywerks trans crossmember and had to slot those mounting holes more and to the side a bit to get the shifter centred and have the engine as far back as we wanted it to give good clearance for the Alt. Now I’m modifying the MGW shifter like someone posted about in another thread to get rid of the offset.
05-10-2018, 06:28 AM
#37
Any input from others on if this offsetting would cause any problems with driveshaft etc. Is there any kind of tolerance to to keep in mind on how the trans lines up with diff?
Slotato: is the connection to starter a ring terminal or plug?
Slotato: is the connection to starter a ring terminal or plug?
05-11-2018, 12:12 AM
#38
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I made my own mounts that bolt to the s2k subframe, then attach to a poly mount on the motor. I've got all of probably $50 in them using an off the shelf (aka CHEAPLY sourced/replaced) poly bushing. I can use a stock starter, I have no dipstick interference.
No offense to anybody, especially Jeremy because he makes a quality product, but it's definitely not cost effective by the time you buy the adapters, the mini starter, plus the Hasport mounts.
IDK why the import swap guys always make stuff so difficult (read: expensive). Making mounts in the domestic world is as common as changing oil, but I guess Honda/Nissan/Lexus swap guys like to waste money! Then down the line when you do need to replace things it's a hassle (mount inserts, starter). Hell, I guess it's good that everyone acts like the mount issue is a huge deal. It's helped keep the swap relatively uncommon until very recently lol. Hopefully it stays that way.
Tehk, I'm really surprised you didn't build your own mounts since you're a fabricator.
But yes having the motor plates gives you a lot more room on the sides of the motor for exhaust/plumbing.
I think being honest with what you really want out of the build in advance will help with the decision of plates vs mounts. If it's a track car or "race car", there's no reason not to use plates IMO. Cheap, easy, lots of room between motor and frame rail compared to mounts.
With some creativity I've been able fit a turbo, retain full tucked a/c, poly bushings, and maintain stock ground clearance (read: no cross over tube under motor/trans).
No offense to anybody, especially Jeremy because he makes a quality product, but it's definitely not cost effective by the time you buy the adapters, the mini starter, plus the Hasport mounts.
IDK why the import swap guys always make stuff so difficult (read: expensive). Making mounts in the domestic world is as common as changing oil, but I guess Honda/Nissan/Lexus swap guys like to waste money! Then down the line when you do need to replace things it's a hassle (mount inserts, starter). Hell, I guess it's good that everyone acts like the mount issue is a huge deal. It's helped keep the swap relatively uncommon until very recently lol. Hopefully it stays that way.
Tehk, I'm really surprised you didn't build your own mounts since you're a fabricator.
But yes having the motor plates gives you a lot more room on the sides of the motor for exhaust/plumbing.
I think being honest with what you really want out of the build in advance will help with the decision of plates vs mounts. If it's a track car or "race car", there's no reason not to use plates IMO. Cheap, easy, lots of room between motor and frame rail compared to mounts.
With some creativity I've been able fit a turbo, retain full tucked a/c, poly bushings, and maintain stock ground clearance (read: no cross over tube under motor/trans).
05-11-2018, 12:15 AM
#39
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06-13-2018, 10:35 AM
#40
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the connections are ring terminals.
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