liquid_helix136

Name: Chase
Location: DFW, TX
Contact: PM
Price: $5k FIRM

TLDR version: Fully built engine, meticulously built, broken in and tuned, 700 miles on it's odometer, professionally tuned on Kpro, made 212whp / 146 wtq on a 9.5cr built for boost engine.

So it pains me to do this, but I'm gonna go ahead and list my fully built engine for sale. My ultimate goal is boost, and I have a perfectly working F22 in my new car, so my mild goals are telling me to just boost that engine. If I don't get what I want out of this engine, I will just go ahead and put it into the new car and boost this bad boy, and sell the F22!

This is a truly badass engine, no cost was spared in building it, no cheap parts were used, it was built to be a boosted daily driver that would never give me any headaches. I fully believe that if maintained appropriately, this engine could go boosted for 200k miles.

Engine history:
The engine is a fully rebuilt short block and head that had 160k miles on it, and had low oil pressure due to the 3rd main bearing galling up the crank and about to spin, and it would burn about a quart of oil every thousand miles. BEFORE it spun, I decided to take the engine out and have it built for boost. Endyn is local and one of the top engine builders for Hondas in the nation, so this was a no brainer. While their prices were on the higher side, after talking with them and seeing the shop and the machinery they use to build engines to perfection, I knew I didn't want to go anywhere else.

After inspection, it was clear the cylinder walls would need to be rehoned, the crank would have to be replaced, and without sleeving, FRM friendly pistons would have to be used.

Engine specs:
Oversized Mahle pistons - 87.25mm dia / 9.5 compression
Crower rods w/ the 7/16" rod bolts.
OEM bearings
ARP Headstuds
Polished new F20 crank

The short block was sonic cleaned and soda blasted to ensure that all the grime and stuff you don't want in a fresh new engine is gone.
The cylinder walls were bored out .25mm and rehoned individually to match each cylinders specific piston to ensure perfect combustion.
The deck was also shaved to microscopic tolerances to ensure a perfectly flat deck that will seal 100%.

The rods we used are Crower rods, NOT BC rods by Brian Crower. These are 2 different companies, BC rods are made in china and are inferior to his dad's company. We used the good stuff in this engine. These rods also come with the 7/16" rod bolts, at $40 a bolt you can ensure that they wont stretch at high rpms. This block is bullet proof!

Also since the engine was built for boost, the timing chain cover already has a bung welded into it to be used as an oil return port (either -12an or -10an, cant remember) It has been capped off for when it was broken in N/A.













After getting the block done, I couldn't cheap out on the head, I had it fully built as well.

The head had nothing wrong with it, it had ap2 retainers / keepers that were upgraded, no valve noise, everything looked great. I just decided to not half ass the job so I sent it to Endyn as well.

Head specs:
Sonic cleaned and Soda blasted just like the block
Bottom and top were shaved down as head was warped a small amount, this was perfected.
Supertech Nitride coated In / Ex valves. Intake valves are Stainless Steel, Exhaust valves are Inconel to take the extra heat from boost.
Manganese / Bronze guides, hone-fitted by hand to each valve specifically
Supertech dual valve springs
Endyn custom chromoly retainers (slightly heavier than titanium, but require zero maintenance)
Honda keepers, new seals.
Bottom of the head resurfaced as I had some pitting from detonation, these pits were welded and resurfaced to perfection
Cylinder footpad on the bottom of the head was CNC'd out .25mm to match the cylinders in the block to again ensure perfect combustion
Intake ports hand blended by Larry to help improve flow.










Putting the engine together professionally in my garage:


In the car!

Here's first start video:
http://vid37.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7stji3rj.mp4

Even though this engine was originally running fine, I wanted to make sure no little fragments of metal or anything were circulating in the oil left over from the last engine. To ensure this, all the plastic chain guides were replaced with new units, the oil pump was replaced with a brand new unit, and any other little wearable bits were replaced as well. Over $900 in OEM parts / bolts were bought from Majestic to install this engine, we don't take any chances of anything failing due to fatigue.

A close up of it's first start:
http://vid37.photobucket.com/albums/...psoim1hlgn.mp4
(The smoke you see in this vid is just excess install lube burning off, entirely normal for an engine that was built and put together properly

I broke it in per the engine builder's request, which was to baby it, let the piston rings seat, rev it to about 3-4k every shift at first and take it up to about 5-6k every 25 miles. Then after 150 miles, allow the car to hit vtec for the first time, shift up to 5k and every 25 miles or so, let the engine into vtec. After 300 miles, I started driving the car normally, redlining for the first time etc. The engine was filled up with Valvoline 10w30 Conventional oil and the oil was changed at 100 miles and 500 miles.

At 600 miles or so, the engine was taken to Seth Francis, who is highly regarded in the tuning world, especially down here in Texas, and actually teaches the EFI tuning class. He's paid to travel all over the country and teach people who tune for a living, how to tune, he has years of experience with all types of cars, and has done some serious s2ks in the area as well!

These were the results of the tune by Seth:


212whp and 146wtq were the final results! Keep in mind that stock compression is 11:1 and this is at 9.5-9.7:1 (accounting for the shaved block / head)
Mods on the car were:
AEM v2 intake
OEM header
63mm Berk test pipe
70mm Invidia Q300 dual exhaust
ACT HD PP + OEM disc

It was both of our beliefs that the dip around 5k was due to the intake and exhaust resonances. I'm fairly confident that with a full 3" single this engine would have hit 220whp / 150wtq

The engine currently has 700 miles on it!

Due to one fateful night, I ended up totaling my Ap1 on an overpass. The engine was still humming along gracefully to that night, and the damage to the car was mostly to the driver side quarter panel and driver side headlight area. The engine was started and ran AFTER the wreck, and AFRs were in check, no weird noises, no ticking, nothing. The engine survived without a scratch.

As mentioned above, this engine was tuned on Kpro, which means that the engine has all the OEM parts needed to run Kpro. These are 06+ OEM S2k parts, so if you have an 06+ S2k, this will drop right in and run perfectly (even on the DBW system) however if you have an 00-05 s2k, you will need to replace the Kpro / 06+ sensors and parts with 00-05 parts, these parts include:
Crank sensor 37500-PZX-003
Crank wheel 13622-PCX-013
TDC sensor 37510-PZX-003
TDC wheel 14112-PCX-003
Valve cover 12310-PCX-020
Drain plug washer (for PCV valve) 94109-14000
PCV valve 17130-PCX-003
IAT sensor 37880-P05-A00

Full disclosure:
When we pulled the engine out, we busted the cam sensor on the back of the engine, so this will need to be replaced regardless, its about a $50 part.

/End of novel

I feel that I have accounted for this engine's history as much as I can, however if you have any questions, please feel free to PM me! My Pms go straight to my phone so I can reply almost instantaneously. I'm already regretting listing this engine for sale, and secretly hope that no one bites so that I'm *forced* to put it into my new car

-Chase