Any S2K Cyclist out there?
#222
I've not rode a bike in a little over a decade just recently picked up a 2013 Bianchi Pista Via Brera single speed for 340 last week. Not the best deal but I think it was the best option for me I could have found in two months of craigslist searching and reading about bicycles.
So far so good but got questions if any guru would not mind helping.
So far I have
- Adjusted the brake pads/calipers as they were not angled properly on the rim of the wheel. (hand tight, not sure if there are forms of torque specs)
- Cleaned/wet lubed chain/crank/cog pieces and the brake caliper joint.
- Everything else seems smooth as hell, wheels still true as their is very minimal deviation when free spinning with bike upside down. Either way, both my wheels since purchase isn't 100% straight in line with the frame center and there's slight camber/toe/caster going on.
I've been riding 5-30 mi every single day since last week with via hard sprints and jog level of intensity. Aesthetically and function wise I run with nothing on but for longer trips I may opt to carry a rear pouch with quick tools or just full backpack and run a soft saddle add-on.
I've not smacked/curb a wheel but I've managed to pinch/curb the front tire between grass and side walk (almost curbed wheel ) but instead I curbed tire and has a slight indent on pinch. Will this affect alignment issues in the future?
The rear wheel/tire I've cut a grass/side walk corner too sharp and rear wheel went over a small dip crack that the grass is below and up onto the sidewalk and felt very sharp like a mini curb or pot hole.
Overall I do a lot of tire smacking on some holes/bumps/cracks/craggily roads that I cannot avoid. How long can my wheels/tires/frame take a beating or is can this entirely be omitted and there is no problem with it as the bicycles and components were designed with such in mind?
If anyone has torque specs or a master sheet of basic adjustments would be GREATLY appreciated. Which bolts can get away with hand tightening and which require actual torque specs? What maintenance schedules am I following and what type of alignments do I need to do. Expected miles out of components or tires?
Even though it's been over 10 years I was able to hop on and start swanging/weaving/riding hard with no problems except certain angles of cornering and cornering radius is a bit odd still. Still a lot to learn/re-learn
thanks for reading, if a separate thread for help/guidance is required please separate.
So far so good but got questions if any guru would not mind helping.
So far I have
- Adjusted the brake pads/calipers as they were not angled properly on the rim of the wheel. (hand tight, not sure if there are forms of torque specs)
- Cleaned/wet lubed chain/crank/cog pieces and the brake caliper joint.
- Everything else seems smooth as hell, wheels still true as their is very minimal deviation when free spinning with bike upside down. Either way, both my wheels since purchase isn't 100% straight in line with the frame center and there's slight camber/toe/caster going on.
I've been riding 5-30 mi every single day since last week with via hard sprints and jog level of intensity. Aesthetically and function wise I run with nothing on but for longer trips I may opt to carry a rear pouch with quick tools or just full backpack and run a soft saddle add-on.
I've not smacked/curb a wheel but I've managed to pinch/curb the front tire between grass and side walk (almost curbed wheel ) but instead I curbed tire and has a slight indent on pinch. Will this affect alignment issues in the future?
The rear wheel/tire I've cut a grass/side walk corner too sharp and rear wheel went over a small dip crack that the grass is below and up onto the sidewalk and felt very sharp like a mini curb or pot hole.
Overall I do a lot of tire smacking on some holes/bumps/cracks/craggily roads that I cannot avoid. How long can my wheels/tires/frame take a beating or is can this entirely be omitted and there is no problem with it as the bicycles and components were designed with such in mind?
If anyone has torque specs or a master sheet of basic adjustments would be GREATLY appreciated. Which bolts can get away with hand tightening and which require actual torque specs? What maintenance schedules am I following and what type of alignments do I need to do. Expected miles out of components or tires?
Even though it's been over 10 years I was able to hop on and start swanging/weaving/riding hard with no problems except certain angles of cornering and cornering radius is a bit odd still. Still a lot to learn/re-learn
thanks for reading, if a separate thread for help/guidance is required please separate.
Last edited by EffWun; 04-09-2017 at 02:05 PM.
#223
Moderator
Finally some free time and good weather last week. . . and mile 6, broke a spoke.
#224
Community Organizer
#225
Community Organizer
Hey guys. So I have been working pretty hard the last few months and dropped 21 pounds. Sitting at a feather-light 162, and have been hovering within a 1.5 pound range for 6 weeks. This has helped immensely in getting the season started and training for my primary event of the year that is taking place on June 3rd. Already have 800 miles logged for the year and that number will climb fast over the next 7 weeks. Looking forward to more warm weather and more miles. Take care!
#227
Originally Posted by LaurenLeah
For some reason my S2 watch always congratulates me on my cycling workout when I get done driving the s2k (and only that car, doesn't do it with my others). Does that count?
Which reminds me, I need to get my bike rack back on the daily driver.
#228
Community Organizer
According to Strava I've got 369 miles thus far in 2017.
Mostly rail-trail and some commutes now that the weather is cooperating.
Mostly rail-trail and some commutes now that the weather is cooperating.
#229
Moderator
Spoke fixed, got out. . . and with the shitty winter in NorCal (lots of needed rain), I've been spinning 2-3x a week. Strava liked it - my main hill showed wattage increase of ~30%. Stoked for the rest of the summer.