The 2 reasons for a binding calliper could be; the calliper piston gets a build up of rust and seizes in the bore (most common) or the slider pin(s) have a lack of lubrication so it won’t move freely.

Before ordering a rather expensive seal kit (£55) from Honda, check the slider pins are moving freely first. Simply remove the slider pin bolts one by one, lift the calliper body up and pull the slider pins in and out to check smooth operation. Use a grease (Cera tec is good) to lubricate around the pins if necessary, DO NOT use copper grease as it will loose its lubricating property quickly.

If that doesn’t solve the binding here’s how to rebuild the calliper:

You will need a 12, 14, 17mm sockets with ratchets and extensions, 10 and 19mm spanner, flathead screwdriver, brake hose clamp, sandpaper, lint free cloth, Honda seal kit (all seals and different types of grease), drip tray, bleed kit, brake fluid. DO NOT use any copper grease.

NOTE: I don’t know what the clear grease is for so I haven’t used it

1. Clamp the brake hose (as close to the calliper as possible but not on the bend)

2. Undo bleed nipple to let the brake fluid drip out (dry anywhere that the fluid has touched)

3. Undo the banjo bolt and put the hose somewhere where it isn’t stretching it

4. Undo the calliper bracket bolts and lift calliper assembly off

5. Undo the slider pin bolts to separate the calliper bracket from the body

6. Remove the pin boots and brake pads

7. Use brake cleaner to clean the calliper and dry using a cloth

8. Remove piston by carefully tapping a long bolt (preferably made from a soft metal to minimise damage to piston) through the banjo bolt hole (be careful to not damage the thread)

9. Remove the piston boot (if it doesn’t come out with the piston)

10. Remove the piston ring (underneath the piston seal) with a flathead screwdriver (be careful not to slip and score the bore)

11. If the piston has rust patches use some 1500 – 2000 grit sandpaper to rub it down

12. The above can be done in the bore but is usually not necessary, so wipe it round with a lint free cloth to remove any particles

13. Inspect the seats for piston ring and piston boot, use a thin flathead screwdriver/ sandpaper to scrape out any rust or dirt

NOTE: When putting it back together pay close attention to make sure there are no particles in the bore or in the seal seats.

NOTE: Use only a lint free cloth when cleaning the piston and bore, DO NOT use any liquid because it will contaminate the brake fluid.

14. Use clean brake fluid to coat the new piston ring and insert it into its seat

15. Use clean brake fluid to coat the seal of the piston boot and insert into the seat, push it into the seat as flush as possible

16. Insert the piston into the bore. Cut a strip (3/4”) out of a paint spray can lid and use it to shimmy in the piston. This is a bit of hassle so I found it helps to get a 2nd pair of hands

17. Insert the slider pin boots into the calliper bracket and use the supplied rubber grease (pink) to grease the inside

18. Use the supplied slider pin grease (orange) to grease around the pins (put a light layer on,
don’t over do it) and insert in place. Gold - top, grey – bottom

19. Refit the calliper bracket to the hub and torque to 108Nm

20. Insert brake pads (if reusing old ones, fit in the same way they came out)

21. Refit the calliper body to bracket and torque to 32Nm

22. Refit brake hose to banjo bolt an torque to 34Nm (keep the brake hose clamped)

23. Bleed the calliper that has been taken off and top up the master cylinder if needed (don’t mix Dot 5 fluid with any others – I think that’s right)

It is quite a simple procedure but it can get fiddly in places so can be quite time consuming if your doing it for the first time.

This was written faily quickly so if anyone with experience wants to add anything just post a message and I will edit mine.

 

Nice

 

The method you are using is for a temp fix ONLY!

If the piston has corrosion, it will come back again.

The only way to repair this problem is to replace the piston which can be bought from Honda at around £50.

Just wanted to make this clear to everbody as I have done this before.

 

Excellent guide!

But it's 17mm. There is no 18mm bolt/nut on the car.

Pedantic I know, but a quick edit

 

I think when I did my rears, the clear goop was for the handbrake mechanism, which obviously you don't have on the front.

 

well the use of the sandpaper is to get rid of all the rust so it doesn't appear again, i used a magnifying glass and down to 3000 grit sandpaper. I should of said that you have to be very anal about rust on the piston so to minimise the risk of re-appearance as much as possible.

If it happens again I will bring this post back from the dead and confirm what you say but I doubt it will

 

thanks for the correction, I did it yesterday so i forgot

 

no it's not, there is a completly separate seal kit for the rears. I've found out Shin- Etsu is apparently silicone, maybe Honda want it put on the exterior of the piston boot to stop cracking?

 

It always surprises me the amount of crap under the piston seal in the caliper bodies. Getting all this out is the most theraputic job there is. Dining room table on an old towel, coffee on the go and a bit of music on. Is there a better way to spend a lazy Sunday morning? Lol.

 

that was exactly the same as me, on the dining room table cleaning, sanding and battling with the piston to get it in. This is when i learnt it would be much quicker with another pair of hands