I wanted to be able to mount a camera to my car for any type of group drive, autox or track event. So I ordered up the MPTuning camera mount. The problem was that when I went to mount it up with my cameras I had some problems. The mount is not the easiest thing to setup and get mounted to the car. I knew that with the difficulty I had, I would not use it very often, and when I did use it I would be concerned about leaving the cameras mounted to the car. So I decided to make some modifications to the mount to make it more friendly to use for my needs.

Here is the basic problem: I can't attach the cameras to the mount before mounting it to the car, and I can't mount the cameras after I attach the mount.

There were two solutions to this problem. The first related to the fact that the cross bar was held on by two socket head cap screws. When in place, these screws are not accessible because it is impossible to get a wrench or a bit into the head of the screw because the roll-hoop is in the way. So I replaced the cap screws with regular hex-head screws. For anyone interested in replacing them, they are M6.

The camera mount reuses the windscreen mounting holes. In some cars there are captured nuts inside the top of the secret compartment. If your car does not have captured nuts, then the MPTuning kit has you covered with wingnuts so you can tighten them from below. However, if you have the captured nuts, then you need to tighten the screws from the top. Of course, with the top bar in place you cannot access these screws. I solved this by drilling two 1/2" holes 1.5" from each end so I can reach the screws with a screwdriver from over, even with the top bar in place.

The third problem was that I did not want to leave the cameras in place on the mount when I was away from the car. This required me to do some shopping, but I found two different quick-release heads that I was able to easily attach to the camera mount by using the screws that I bought from MPTuning and the holes that were originally in the mount.

Ok, enough of my yapping. Here is are the pix:

First you can see one of the camera mounts, one of the holes I drilled for access, and the new M6 bolt for the end screw:


Here are the two cameras mounted up and ready to rock. Notice that plugged into the power outlet is a power inverter. The AC adapter is plugged into the inverter and tucked in by the seatbelt latch on the passenger side. That powers the Video Camera.


Here is what it looks like from the back:




And from the front:




Here is a closeup of the larger camera mount. It has it's own tilt built in.


Here is what it looks like without any cameras:







I do plan to touch up the black finish, but I have not decided how yet.

 

cool

 

Good info, I have the same camera mount and I'm thinking along the same lines for the mods. I noticed that the sound from that location is not the greatest, too much wind buffeting from the soft top at high speeds (top up for extra speed on the track, proven). A remote microphone in the trunk would capture some nice exhaust sounds. But then again, I'm considering a grill-mounted bullet camera and maybe a rear bumper cam...

For touch-up you can use a black Sharpie or a black paint pen. You should be able to find the screws in black.

 

Thanks for the tips. My plan was to dub out the sound and replace it with music in post processing.

At the track, I would want the sound of the engine. If top-up doesn't clear up the sound issues, then I was going to add an external mike and mount it somewhere in the cabin, just a little lower down. Probably the passenger footwell.

 

thats awsome

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by ruexp67
At the track, I would want the sound of the engine.

 

good work pimp!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by mxt_77

 

get pics running pics up

 

I use a remote mic clipped on to the stereo door. I get the same sound I hear inside the cockpit: engine noise, music, and me swearing at track newbies.