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Removing Supercharger

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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 01:08 PM
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Default Removing Supercharger

I had this supercharger for more than 3 yrs. I think it's showing its age and has some vibration and the pulley is moving in and out after releasing gas pedal. So I decided to recondition it by sending to vortech. So far, they've quoted me about $800 for recondition, polishing SC and AC. I thought it was little expensive but what can I do... anyway, due to time constraint I have, I decided to do it myself but search did not yield any information that I could use it just for "removing supercharger".

following will be the step I'll follow to remove my super charger and after-cooler.

1. remove bumper and drain coolant from aftercooler.
2. remove vacuum hose from BOV.
3. remove rubber/connectors between IM/AC and AC/SC.
4. disconnect coolent hose from AC, further drain coolant.
5. remove AC.
6. remove hose between SC and Air filter.
7. remove bolts surrounding SC - I'll add more info later.
8. remove belts.
9. remove oil feed line.
10. remove SC.

I think this covers it. this will be my journal and I hope to get some thoughts I did not cover. So please feel free to add any info regarding removing SC.

thanks,
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 10:21 PM
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If it were me, I would suck out as much of the coolant out of the A/C as I could, then remove one line at a time and put a big cork or bung in the end. Then do same to the other line. This way, you can keep all the fluid in the rest of the system since the A/C is the highest point in that circuit. Then, when it comes time to fill it back up, you won't have to worry about getting all the air out. This will also allow you to keep the bumper on.

The other thing I'd do would be to loosen the S/C belt first before loosening the S/C bolts. The tension of the belt will pull the blower down fairly hard and will may damage the bolts as you undo them. Try to leave the VTEC sandwich bracket bolted to the engine. The less you mess with that the less likely it will leak after. A rachetting box end wrench will assist in this removal an leave the sandwich in place.

As long as you're doing all this, you may as well get new belts since the S/C belt has to come off if you ever need to replace the engine belt at some point in the future.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 03:31 AM
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Wish I could have helped you during this process but I've been busy these few past couple months

But don't forget to remove the the brass fitting on the feed side of the charger and blow it out w/ compressed air.

Vortech does state to remove it and clean it at every oil change if I recall correctly

But who the hell is going to dismount the charger for that?
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Venomous S,Jun 28 2006, 05:31 AM
Vortech does state to remove it and clean it at every oil change if I recall correctly

But who the hell is going to dismount the charger for that?
Good point! And let us know if anything actually comes out when you do it. I've always been curious as to why anything would get clogged in there if the oil and filter are changed at the proper intervals.
Doing this procedure is not one that many people would perform just because it's so rediculously time consuming.
I'm going to bet that Vortech used put this in there so they had an out if they should ever wanted to deny warranty work. You know, find something that has some basis in fact, but make it unduly hard and time consuming that almost noone will do it.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by nibble,Jun 27 2006, 02:08 PM
So far, they've quoted me about $800 for recondition
You might want to ask them about the "T" trim option. I had an issue with my Vortech and had to return it for service. Not only did they fix one of the input bearing they changed out the snail to the "T" trim which makes more boost. Currently I am running 7.7 psi with a 5" pulley and will be putting a 4.5" in which will get me over 10 lbs.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by xviper,Jun 28 2006, 10:56 AM
Good point! And let us know if anything actually comes out when you do it. I've always been curious as to why anything would get clogged in there if the oil and filter are changed at the proper intervals.
Doing this procedure is not one that many people would perform just because it's so rediculously time consuming.
I'm going to bet that Vortech used put this in there so they had an out if they should ever wanted to deny warranty work. You know, find something that has some basis in fact, but make it unduly hard and time consuming that almost noone will do it.
I never cleaned it with my oil changes. Only when I had to take the charger off a few times (ex, smaller pulley, taking head off, etc) and there was nothing ever lodged in there.


As far as a T trim option. Back when I had my charger, they said to me that there are no other choices but what comes as a kit. the blower unit itself is not the problem, bu the bracketry would not fit any other trim...
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Venomous S,Jun 28 2006, 03:13 PM
As far as a T trim option. Back when I had my charger, they said to me that there are no other choices but what comes as a kit. the blower unit itself is not the problem, bu the bracketry would not fit any other trim...
Without changing the bracket a T trim can be added to your existing unit. The only thing size wise is the intake goes to 3.75 from 3.5. I can't wait to try a smaller pulley
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 07:00 PM
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thanks for all your input. I'll keep you posted as soon as I get started... I'm little lazy as my working condition is not optimal...

low light, bad air, & etc..

I'll definately check and take photo when I get to oil feed line.
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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The T-trim blower is the same outside housing as the V2 SQ. A friend of mine has a T-trim for a B18, and he want's my V2 SQ
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Old Jun 28, 2006 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Slows2k,Jun 28 2006, 11:11 PM
The T-trim blower is the same outside housing as the V2 SQ. A friend of mine has a T-trim for a B18, and he want's my V2 SQ
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