UK & Ireland S2000 Community Discussions related to the S2000, its ownership and enthusiasm for it in the UK and Ireland. Including FAQs, and technical questions.

Corrosion to Sus Wishbone & control arm bushes

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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 01:16 PM
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Default Corrosion to Sus Wishbone & control arm bushes

Am going to view a couple of 04 s2000, and hoping to buy this w/end.

BUT... I freely admit to knowing bugger all about cars (other than how to drive...)

On going through the faqs, there was a great deal of detail about corrosion to the Suspension Wishbone & rear control arm bushes.

On just viewing the car (not on a ramp) and test driving it, is there any way to tell whether this problem exists? If so, could a knowledgable person explain it in language understandable by a noob please?

Fortunately am taking a mate who knows a thing or 2 about cars!

TIA
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 01:27 PM
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There isn't really a way of checking other than having the geo played around with.

Just lookout for general condition really, if the wishbones are really scaled up with rust then there will be more chance of seizing.

It doesn't seem to be a major common problem (i mean % wise) on these cars but its a pain in the wallet if you get one like it.

I'm fortunate enough to have bought new so the first thing i did was take all the wheels off and treat all the arms and bushes to a coat of waxoyl. I will continue to do this every year to make sure it doesn't happen on mine.

I have a mate that has just been looking for and Elan (newer version) and one of the major problems on them are rear suspension corrosion and can cost
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by vk2003,Nov 17 2006, 10:16 PM
On just viewing the car (not on a ramp) and test driving it, is there any way to tell whether this problem exists?
No!

If so, could a knowledgable person explain it in language understandable by a noob please?
The chances are the wishbones will look corroded. This is not a problem.

The problem that the car suffers is that the suspension bushes and the adjusting bolts seize together. Again, this is only a problem if the alignment is out and needs to be corrected.

Most people that have this problem are most likely unaware.

Fixing the problem is *very* expensive unless you do as I did and get the parts from breakers and do the work yourself.

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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 01:37 PM
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Thanks guys
Confirmed what I thought.

Looks like a case of buying the best car I can, and then taking a look. If they are all OK, I will waxoyl them, and if they are corroded then I shall have to see....

If most people are unaware, then perhaps leave it until such time as I become sensitive enough to the the handling of the car to discern that the alignment needs adjusting...
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Old Nov 17, 2006 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by StevenM,Nov 17 2006, 11:27 PM
Fixing the problem is *very* expensive unless you do as I did and get the parts from breakers and do the work yourself.

I had hardly driven in the winter..and never on salted roads, also heavily coated the outside of mine with copper grease..

but when I came to replace the rear suspension the other week.. still noticed the "start" of one bolt going..

I guess to be absolutely sure you need to put the grease on the inside..and the outside.
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 01:20 PM
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If you get an 04, get the geo done as soon as you buy it, then report any seized bolts to Honda warranty dept
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 02:20 PM
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Thanks for the tip Neil. Will do...

Now, anyone suggest a GOOD place to get the geo done round Camberley, Surrey?

Wish me luck for tomorrow - car buying day!
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 04:58 PM
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My suspension arms look like shit, any pictures showing what bolts are the iffy ones?
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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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this gives some idea of the location on the rear..

but the bolts involved are marked.. the one that looked worse on mine was the top right.. top wishbone.

basically look for the wishbones and follow them back to the car frame.. similar on the front..

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Old Nov 18, 2006 | 10:25 PM
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Great post Kobe. That is a really useful picture, and one that I reckon should be added to the FAQ I reckon. Although the pictures there are in greater detail, yours shows an overview of what to expect when the wheel is removed.
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