I installed my Saner bar today and ran into a couple of problems during the install. First, the collars that are supposed to prevent the bar from moving don't sit up against the bushings. The brackets that the bushings mount to stick out a bit far, so the collar hits it before the bushing. Only a small portion of the collar touches this. Second, after messing with the endlinks for what seemed link AGES, I gave up trying to get them into the furthest forward holes. The holes lined up directly in line with the shocks and the bolt is long enough to bind between the shock and the bar -- even after sliding the bar as far to the other side as possible. Anyone been able to get the endlinks into the stiffest setting? On the middle setting, the bar is definitely an improvement over my whiteline 30mm bar, but while driving today I noticed new 'tick-tick' sounds coming from the front suspension when cornering hard or going over a bump. I checked after a quick trip around the block to see if anything was rubbing and re-torqued my bolts, but I haven't pulled the tires off to check since this afternoon. Here are some pics:

Driver's side:


Passenger's side:


collar:

 

Highlander I have one of these bars but noticed this observation and this is a mail I sent to Krazik after fitting mine.

Quote;
One thing that is worth mentioning to Saner or to others you have shipped out to is that the split alloy collars which stop the side movement need to have a smaller O/D (outer diameter).

The hanger bracket that bolts on to the chassis that carries the sway bar bush has protruding shoulders and as such does not allow the collar to seat up to the bush.

How I got around this was to file a flat on one of the alloy collars about 2 millimetres deep across one radius, this then allowed it to pass the shoulders and seat correctly.

As said earlier I think Saner wants telling the OD wants to be smaller or a flat put on one half so it clears the hanger shoulder.

Also the "assembly" order that you have put the "nuts, bolts, spacers, washers" on I think are wrong.

Saner suggest this order of assembly:

The sway bar/drop link bolt order would be.
Bolt head -> washer -> swaybar -> large spacer -> drop link -> small spacer -> nut.

Its the same principal in fastening the link to the bottom arm.

Mine, after all of this went on fine and I am well pleased with it. However I am tending to find the "middle" hole adjustment induces too much oversteer, I am in the process of trying the other.

 

I'll take the washers out and swap the orientation of the bolt as you suggest.

 

Ok, it doesn't look like anything was rubbing. I suspect the ticking I heard was the retaining collars being pushed along the bar. I turned the bolts around and it made the alignment much easier. Thanks for that tip! There is still very little room between the end of the bolt and the shock, however. I managed to get the endlinks lined up with the stiffest hole, but I ran into two more minor glitches. The endlink ends up at enough of an angle that the body of it actually touches on the mount where it bolts to the suspension arm. I turned the endlink around and got a tiny bit of clearance -- is this ok, or is it a bad idea? The other issue is that the brake line rests on the swaybar. Hopefully that won't be a problem, but I'll keep my eye on it for sure.

Normal endlink orientation -- base rubs on the suspension arm attachment:


backwards endlink orientation -- gain just a couple of mm worth of space:

 

Try moving the link to the front of the tab.

 

I had the same thought when I went back out to the garage after my last post. Works perfectly there. Thanks!

EDIT: SUCCESS!!! With the endlink on the forward side of the mounting tab, it can be adjusted to the shortest possible setting, which allows the swaybar to sit lower and not rub against the brake line. A winner on all aspects. Thanks for the help guys!

 

I've been messing with mine for the past two weeks and speaking to John Saner the whole time.

Here's the deal...
You are correct, the collars/ bracket set-up are offset which allows some movement between the collar and the bracket (I'm hoping this is the 'tick tick' sound that you and I are both hearing under our cars).

I spoke to John yesterday once more and, I too, grinded down ONE piece of the coller on each side after our discussion. Remember - only grind down the recieving side (not the side that the head slips into, but the one with the threads which should be placed at the top of the bar). This allows both collar pieces to sit flush with the mounting bracket and the 'L' bracket that is attached to the car. Although, this seems to work in theory, I still have 'tick tick' noises eminating from my bar assembly. I can't imagine that sound being the end links and John agreed.

Anyway, John says he may have another bracket/ bushing assembly made of 1-1/2" material in lieu of the 1-3/8" material that was provided to us. he did mention that he has only come across this once with a guy in England, so contact him and, I'm sure he will assist you. If you can get ahold of him, he is a great help and very concerned with his product. If you need his number, pm me, but be patient, I'm not on s2KI all the time.

As for the mounting position. I do have mine in the stiffest position on stock shocks. The newest bar design allows this position, so you may have an older bar, which had some clearance issues. I did notice that a closed end wrench will not fit between the bolt head and the shock so, yes, mine is pretty close too, but I think it is within an acceptable distance to allow adequate clearance.

I too mis-installed the bolt/ washer/ spacer order, then re-installed and confirmed the order with Saner. You are correct in that order stated above.

 

After installing the endlinks on the front of the mounting tabs, I'm no longer getting the ticking sound. I suppose they could have been rubbing on the tab and causing the tick. I didn't see evidence of anything rubbing on the shock.

 

I'll try the same.

Did you notice any wear marks or mis-shapen pieces upon disassembly? Just curious. If so, that's probably where the ticking occurred.

I've already installed, removed and re-installed the bar twice, so I guess one more time can't hurt, right?

 

I didn't notice anything except that the retaining collars had moved about 1/4 inch away from where I installed them on each side. I only had the bar in that configuration for a day -- about 125 miles on it when I started messing with it yesterday.