best clutch?
increased my S's power. I need a new clutch. I'm looking at one from Clutchmaster and one from ACT. I'm not worried about the feel or how stiff the operation of the clutchs are. Which clutch (doesn't have to be the two I mentioned) out there carries over the most power from your engine to your wheels? Which one performs the best (in your opinions)?
Tuner
Tuner
i don't have aftermarket clutch experience with my s2k but on my h22a-powered accord i use the exedy clutch and it works great, grips very nicely. is pricey though, but good things cost money so...
STOCK CLUTCH. Depending on what your plans include.
As per my mechanic I use at honda for every aplication I've added to date and also consulted with about my future plans he said "Honda designed the clutch to be the weakest point in the drive train. Up grading the clutch will make the next weakest poin the rear end. Keep the clutch stock. The slipage is IMPORTANT, otherwise too much torque will go to the rear. A new clutch ~300 a new rear 4k."
And bumper to bumper will not be covered due to upgraded clutch. Honda cannot prove that an increase in engine power will provide damage to the rear with the stock clutch because of it's design TO SLIP to protect the rest of the drive train.
I hope I helped.
As per my mechanic I use at honda for every aplication I've added to date and also consulted with about my future plans he said "Honda designed the clutch to be the weakest point in the drive train. Up grading the clutch will make the next weakest poin the rear end. Keep the clutch stock. The slipage is IMPORTANT, otherwise too much torque will go to the rear. A new clutch ~300 a new rear 4k."
And bumper to bumper will not be covered due to upgraded clutch. Honda cannot prove that an increase in engine power will provide damage to the rear with the stock clutch because of it's design TO SLIP to protect the rest of the drive train.
I hope I helped.
I use exedy clutch and I am very happy with this clutch. I had another brand for 4 weeks and I replaced this one with the exedy because of excessive rattle noise between 3500 and 4500 RPM. Make sure that your aftermarket clutch is not noisy because it will drive you crazy and takes the fun away.
(Image your self approaching a intersection and your car sounds like an old truck
)
I also have to agree with 03spa that the OEM clutch protects your drivetrain but if you go FI this one will be worn within 3000 miles because of constant slippage above 7500 RPM.
I reinforced my diff with the comptech diff housing.
(Image your self approaching a intersection and your car sounds like an old truck
)I also have to agree with 03spa that the OEM clutch protects your drivetrain but if you go FI this one will be worn within 3000 miles because of constant slippage above 7500 RPM.
I reinforced my diff with the comptech diff housing.
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I installed an ACT clutch (organic street clutch I believe) and JUN Ultralight fly wheel on my Integra Type-r. I loved it. No prolems, no noises. I know somebody else who installed the same setup on their Type-R and it made this horrible noise. I guess it all relies on the knowledge of the installer and what type of job they do.
I just had a ACT pressure plate, OEM disk, and comptech flywheel installed. The clutch feels great now, instant engagement, no more jumpiness or hesitation. The only thing is a noticable increase in peddle pressure. I only have about 50miles on the new setup. Havent noticed any noise yet.
This isn't the setup that gets noisey is it?
This isn't the setup that gets noisey is it?




