Air box mod w/ aux intake and oil catch tank mount
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 646
Likes: 7
From: Black Hills of S. Dakota
Okay I picked up a new Cusco style Greddy oil catch tank and was frustrated that on my MY03 there was no place to mount it unless I was willing to rip out the cruise control. Well I wasn't gonna do that!
Having earlier decided to stay with the stock airbox rather than acquire an aftermarket short RAM or CAI, I looked at what I'd already done to mod it. I'd swapped the stock air filter for an Italian made Sprint which rests about an inch higher than stock on a bushing I assembled for better air circulation around the entire filter. A Coastal Engine Bay Accessory has been installed to manage airflow better. I'd clipped the airbox interior baffle walls, removed the top cover L piece, and blocked the passage to the resonator chamber. Hey! That resonator chamber is now just excess junk wasting space. So I whacked it off leaving the little screw bracket for mounting that thingamajig on the back side. That opened up space for the Greddy. Mmmm... gee there's a left over mounting airbox bushing. So I relocated that to the drivers side of the chopped airbox to serve as the anchor for the Greddy tank mounting bracket. Well as long as I'm screwing with this lets cut a 3" hole on the passenger side and install a coupler to route aux air ducting to. Sealed everthing with a silcone based sealer.
Here's the box ready for installation:
I'll post more pix after I finish installing stuff. I'm also going to put a mini-"radmat" in front of the stock airbox intake horn.
--Bob
Having earlier decided to stay with the stock airbox rather than acquire an aftermarket short RAM or CAI, I looked at what I'd already done to mod it. I'd swapped the stock air filter for an Italian made Sprint which rests about an inch higher than stock on a bushing I assembled for better air circulation around the entire filter. A Coastal Engine Bay Accessory has been installed to manage airflow better. I'd clipped the airbox interior baffle walls, removed the top cover L piece, and blocked the passage to the resonator chamber. Hey! That resonator chamber is now just excess junk wasting space. So I whacked it off leaving the little screw bracket for mounting that thingamajig on the back side. That opened up space for the Greddy. Mmmm... gee there's a left over mounting airbox bushing. So I relocated that to the drivers side of the chopped airbox to serve as the anchor for the Greddy tank mounting bracket. Well as long as I'm screwing with this lets cut a 3" hole on the passenger side and install a coupler to route aux air ducting to. Sealed everthing with a silcone based sealer.
Here's the box ready for installation:
I'll post more pix after I finish installing stuff. I'm also going to put a mini-"radmat" in front of the stock airbox intake horn.
--Bob
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 4
From: Durango, Colorado
Bob:
As we have communicated before on this air intake mod, I am most eager to see how you duct the air from the grill hole in the Coastal Metals pannel to the stock intake horn. As you know, I made mine flexible, to account for the diffficulty in measuring hood clearance at all pertenant points. It incorporates a springy steel flexible frame with a foil wrapped bubble wrap covering. Works great, and has more square inches of intake cross section than the carbon fiber or plastic snorkles, but isn't much to look at.
Keep up the good work,
Richard
As we have communicated before on this air intake mod, I am most eager to see how you duct the air from the grill hole in the Coastal Metals pannel to the stock intake horn. As you know, I made mine flexible, to account for the diffficulty in measuring hood clearance at all pertenant points. It incorporates a springy steel flexible frame with a foil wrapped bubble wrap covering. Works great, and has more square inches of intake cross section than the carbon fiber or plastic snorkles, but isn't much to look at.
Keep up the good work,
Richard
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 646
Likes: 7
From: Black Hills of S. Dakota
Richard,
I'm still playing with "concepts." I did pick up a large roll of dual sided aluminized insulation as well as a thin 3x2 sheet of aluminum used in furnaces and associated ductwork. I have all winter to figure out my approach. Temps today were in the mid 40s so I took advantage of it to do the aux vent and oil catch tank - If I insulate the air box it'll be done when I do the radmat. Still playing with that too although it's a safe bet I will do the interior but not the hose from throttle body to air box.
I still like the clean look of Toshi's TN2P cool plate ver. 2. It covers the radiator in front of the airbox horn and has wings which come close to sealing the sides with the hood serving as a top giving the functionality of a duct between the air director and intake horn. Still wish it were readily available here -
My thoughts run to fabricating something like that but with the dual sided aluminized insulation under the plate and on the wings. Wings could have a thick soft rubber edge protector which would seal against the hood.
BTW that resonator section I cut off was as thought... just a hollow void that was originally fed through the small hole in the main airbox chamber that I had already sealed off. The resonator was indeed a useless space waster -
--Bob
I'm still playing with "concepts." I did pick up a large roll of dual sided aluminized insulation as well as a thin 3x2 sheet of aluminum used in furnaces and associated ductwork. I have all winter to figure out my approach. Temps today were in the mid 40s so I took advantage of it to do the aux vent and oil catch tank -
If I insulate the air box it'll be done when I do the radmat. Still playing with that too although it's a safe bet I will do the interior but not the hose from throttle body to air box. I still like the clean look of Toshi's TN2P cool plate ver. 2. It covers the radiator in front of the airbox horn and has wings which come close to sealing the sides with the hood serving as a top giving the functionality of a duct between the air director and intake horn. Still wish it were readily available here -
My thoughts run to fabricating something like that but with the dual sided aluminized insulation under the plate and on the wings. Wings could have a thick soft rubber edge protector which would seal against the hood. BTW that resonator section I cut off was as thought... just a hollow void that was originally fed through the small hole in the main airbox chamber that I had already sealed off. The resonator was indeed a useless space waster -
--Bob
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 4
From: Durango, Colorado
Bob:
I like the looks of that Toshi product, Where and how much? You know, you could take that product and stick on a little foam tape at the top edges to make a positive seal with the hood top.
What is this "oil collector" you speak of?
Thanks,
Richard
I like the looks of that Toshi product, Where and how much? You know, you could take that product and stick on a little foam tape at the top edges to make a positive seal with the hood top.
What is this "oil collector" you speak of?
Thanks,
Richard
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,191
Likes: 10
From: Saint Augustine, FL
Yeah, what is that Toshi plate I see? Does it route air better? Can we get it imported?
I'm thinking of a snorkel attachment to the stock airbox, but don't want to spend $$$ on Carbon Fiber stuff that I don't like the look of anyway.
This has to be less money.
I'm thinking of a snorkel attachment to the stock airbox, but don't want to spend $$$ on Carbon Fiber stuff that I don't like the look of anyway.
This has to be less money.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 646
Likes: 7
From: Black Hills of S. Dakota
Richard, Hockey:
I just received an e-mail response from Toshi. The plate shipped to the US is VERY expensive. The Plate goes for 8200 Yen plus 8000 Yen shipping plus bank transfer fees for payment. Figure $150 USD plus bank fees. Here are some links to Toshi's TN2P site:
http://tn2p.cside8.com/tn2p_goods.html
http://tn2p.cside8.com/howto22.html
Looks like I need to fabricate what I need myself - And yes, as mentioned in my earlier post, it could be adjusted with rubber edges to seal against the hood forming a duct to the air intake horn.
Richard,
There have been several recent threads about oil catch tanks or cans but basically what it does is allow atomized oil blown out through the PCV to condense in a "trap" rather than being forced into the induction manifold where it gums and fouls things up. With a high reving engine like that in our S2Ks, even naturally aspirated set ups benefit although you more normally see these installed in forced induction setups.
--Bob
I just received an e-mail response from Toshi. The plate shipped to the US is VERY expensive. The Plate goes for 8200 Yen plus 8000 Yen shipping plus bank transfer fees for payment. Figure $150 USD plus bank fees. Here are some links to Toshi's TN2P site:
http://tn2p.cside8.com/tn2p_goods.html
http://tn2p.cside8.com/howto22.html
Looks like I need to fabricate what I need myself -
And yes, as mentioned in my earlier post, it could be adjusted with rubber edges to seal against the hood forming a duct to the air intake horn.Richard,
There have been several recent threads about oil catch tanks or cans but basically what it does is allow atomized oil blown out through the PCV to condense in a "trap" rather than being forced into the induction manifold where it gums and fouls things up. With a high reving engine like that in our S2Ks, even naturally aspirated set ups benefit although you more normally see these installed in forced induction setups.
--Bob
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 4
From: Durango, Colorado
Bob:
Interestingly, if you used some flex rubber either on the Toshi unit or the hood bottom to form a seal, what you'd have is basically what is stock on the Infinity G 35 sedan. You see, I studied a lot of stock air intakes before forming the opinion that the s2k's was a poor, stale, hot air design. In summary NO other car has its intake without some sort of airpath to outside air. NONE!!
When I went through the though process of fabricating my own, my main problem was my inability to accurately measure hood clearances at various critical areas. I'd need to do that if I made the "air tunnel" out of some attractive and hard material, lest closing the hood leave me with some nasty "bump dents" on the hood front. What Spoon and its immitators do is to undersize the unit where it passes under the hood at this critical area, sacrificing air intake ability for good looks. Thus, the creation of the "soft" tunnel out of foil covered bubble wrap supported by a springy steel skeleton. Won't win any beauty awards, but rams in lots of air. And, the only part of my car I want to "show off" anyway are the tail lights!
Keep up the good work,
Richard
Interestingly, if you used some flex rubber either on the Toshi unit or the hood bottom to form a seal, what you'd have is basically what is stock on the Infinity G 35 sedan. You see, I studied a lot of stock air intakes before forming the opinion that the s2k's was a poor, stale, hot air design. In summary NO other car has its intake without some sort of airpath to outside air. NONE!!
When I went through the though process of fabricating my own, my main problem was my inability to accurately measure hood clearances at various critical areas. I'd need to do that if I made the "air tunnel" out of some attractive and hard material, lest closing the hood leave me with some nasty "bump dents" on the hood front. What Spoon and its immitators do is to undersize the unit where it passes under the hood at this critical area, sacrificing air intake ability for good looks. Thus, the creation of the "soft" tunnel out of foil covered bubble wrap supported by a springy steel skeleton. Won't win any beauty awards, but rams in lots of air. And, the only part of my car I want to "show off" anyway are the tail lights!
Keep up the good work,
Richard
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 646
Likes: 7
From: Black Hills of S. Dakota
Richard,
Fully concur as I too concluded that although the snorkel concept definately has merit, without relief as provided in the Mugen hood, they are all too restricted with what for me are unacceptable trade offs to that approach.
I also understand from your posts here and our e-mail exchanges why you ended up with the "flexible" design you're describing above. I'm still looking for something a bit more elegant and with the car up for the winter I have the luxury of some time to play with concepts. That's why I'm looking at a Toshi style plate covering dual sided aluminum insulation for a combo mini-radmat induction duct coupling the Coastal Metals air director to the stock airbox horn.
Right now because the furnace duct material is so sharp, not only when cut, but when purchased, I'm looking for some edging material. Something like that used by Coastal Metals and Grill-Tech on the edges of the grills. Any idea where to find stuff like that?
--Bob
Fully concur as I too concluded that although the snorkel concept definately has merit, without relief as provided in the Mugen hood, they are all too restricted with what for me are unacceptable trade offs to that approach.
I also understand from your posts here and our e-mail exchanges why you ended up with the "flexible" design you're describing above. I'm still looking for something a bit more elegant and with the car up for the winter I have the luxury of some time to play with concepts. That's why I'm looking at a Toshi style plate covering dual sided aluminum insulation for a combo mini-radmat induction duct coupling the Coastal Metals air director to the stock airbox horn.
Right now because the furnace duct material is so sharp, not only when cut, but when purchased, I'm looking for some edging material. Something like that used by Coastal Metals and Grill-Tech on the edges of the grills. Any idea where to find stuff like that?
--Bob