4.57 safe for every day?
just want to know if the 4.57 (0r 4.44 or 4.77) is safe for every day driving. I read in the Honda Tuning Magazine (dec issue) that they will "Increase acceleration by shortening the gears with a new final drive ratio. Just be sure to make the necessary engine mods to ensure the life of your F20C."
that statement made me paranoid right before i was about to type my VISA number in.
that statement made me paranoid right before i was about to type my VISA number in.
"Just be sure to make the necessary engine mods to ensure the life of your F20C"
This is a great unsupported statement. There was no list of necessary engine mods. I too am interested in what others think about this topic.
This is a great unsupported statement. There was no list of necessary engine mods. I too am interested in what others think about this topic.
Ummm.... you guys need to read up on what changing your final drive ratio is actually going to do. Because from your questions, it's clear you have absolutely no idea.
Basically, for a given speed and gear, you're going to be turning more RPMs. How many more is a question you'll have to ask others who have their gears installed (or you can work the math out yourself).
This doesn't make them any more or less "safe" for everyday driving. It just means that if you find yourself cruising on the highway in 6th gear at 80mph and 4000 rpms, with gears you'll be turning maybe 5000. I'm pulling these numbers out of a hat, but hopefully you'll understand a bit clearer what it is you're doing to your car before you just throw money at it.
Basically, for a given speed and gear, you're going to be turning more RPMs. How many more is a question you'll have to ask others who have their gears installed (or you can work the math out yourself).
This doesn't make them any more or less "safe" for everyday driving. It just means that if you find yourself cruising on the highway in 6th gear at 80mph and 4000 rpms, with gears you'll be turning maybe 5000. I'm pulling these numbers out of a hat, but hopefully you'll understand a bit clearer what it is you're doing to your car before you just throw money at it.
Originally posted by heffergm
Ummm.... you guys need to read up on what changing your final drive ratio is actually going to do. Because from your questions, it's clear you have absolutely no idea.
Basically, for a given speed and gear, you're going to be turning more RPMs. How many more is a question you'll have to ask others who have their gears installed (or you can work the math out yourself).
This doesn't make them any more or less "safe" for everyday driving. It just means that if you find yourself cruising on the highway in 6th gear at 80mph and 4000 rpms, with gears you'll be turning maybe 5000. I'm pulling these numbers out of a hat, but hopefully you'll understand a bit clearer what it is you're doing to your car before you just throw money at it.
Ummm.... you guys need to read up on what changing your final drive ratio is actually going to do. Because from your questions, it's clear you have absolutely no idea.
Basically, for a given speed and gear, you're going to be turning more RPMs. How many more is a question you'll have to ask others who have their gears installed (or you can work the math out yourself).
This doesn't make them any more or less "safe" for everyday driving. It just means that if you find yourself cruising on the highway in 6th gear at 80mph and 4000 rpms, with gears you'll be turning maybe 5000. I'm pulling these numbers out of a hat, but hopefully you'll understand a bit clearer what it is you're doing to your car before you just throw money at it.
The point is a well known tuners mag (Honda Tuning Magazine dec issue) wrote "Increase acceleration by shortening the gears with a new final drive ratio. Just be sure to make the necessary engine mods to ensure the life of your F20C."
WTF are they talking about. As for understand gears, I have that covered. I have been running them for 10k miles without issues. I don't even burn oil anymore.
But as someone who sells gears, what I think on this topic is suspect. So If I was to anwser the question, it might be seen as personally motivated.
Wow, I am shocked and surprised that such a magazine would employ writers who seem to have such a lack of knowledge about something that is really very simple.
Let's look at the numbers:
The stock car ('00 - '03) has 4.10 final drive ratio. The '04 car does too but it has a different secondary output reduction and slightly different ratios for 5th and 6th gears, so I won't go into this here.
If you change the F.D. ratio to:
4.44, you will have an increase of 8.3% mechanical advantage.
4.57, an increase of 11.5%.
4.77, an increase of 16.3%.
For those who might need a bit more detail:
If the car was running (as an example) at 5000 rpm in any given gear, the resultant rpm with the corresponding gear would be:
4.44 ............. 5415 rpm.
4.57 ............. 5575 rpm.
4.77 ............. 5815 rpm.
Now comes the typical question from people who really don't understand "real world" dynamics: "But won't the taller gears reduce the car's top speed?"
OK, "calculated" top speed of the various geared cars:
with....
4.10 ................... 172.55 mph @ 9000 rpm.
4.44 ................... 159.34
4.57 ................... 154.81
4.77 ................... 148.32
So here's the reality check:
This car CANNOT achieve it's "calculated" top speed when otherwise stock due to drag (both from aerodynamics and rolling resistance). The average reported top speed is about 150 mph on flat ground, no wind, car running normally.
Will a 4.44 equipped car reach its calculated top speed? Probably not.
A 4.57 car? Maybe.
A 4.77 car? Most likely.
So, in as much as all these cars are concerned, the real world top speed is really not that different from one car to the next.
Another real world observation:
If you typically drive around in 3rd gear at your "usual" speed, then yes, your rpm with gears will be slightly higher, BUT, most people find themselves just going to the next gear (4th) when just doing their "usual" speed. So, their new "usual" engine speed will actually have DECREASED slightly.
The only situation where that magazine "might" have any relavence would be in 6th gear highway cruising where the geared car WILL run at a slightly higher rpm at any given speed.
Worse case scenario:
4.77 equipped car will turn 16.3% more rpm than a stock car. Will this equate to 16.3% more wear and tear? Unless lab tests are conducted, I don't think we can make that assumption. This engine has a great lubrication and cooling system (and special liners) and only the pre-mid '02 cars will still have the old 2 hole oiljet bolts. For those cars, it would not be a bad idea to get the new 4 hole bolts put in when doing gears. This is not a complicated or expensive job.
The UPSIDE? With gears, this car can no longer be considered a slug because of lack of low end torque. Drive in any geared car and you will see that the acceleration is impressive. For all the money that people put into their cars (and most will achieve minimal gains) this one is the best bang for the buck, especially in light of the most recent reduction in cost of the parts.
However, there is a caution: The correct installation and calibration of the gears and the proper break in and fluid maintenance is CRITICAL. If these are not addressed, "gears" will be your worst nightmare.
Let's look at the numbers:
The stock car ('00 - '03) has 4.10 final drive ratio. The '04 car does too but it has a different secondary output reduction and slightly different ratios for 5th and 6th gears, so I won't go into this here.
If you change the F.D. ratio to:
4.44, you will have an increase of 8.3% mechanical advantage.
4.57, an increase of 11.5%.
4.77, an increase of 16.3%.
For those who might need a bit more detail:
If the car was running (as an example) at 5000 rpm in any given gear, the resultant rpm with the corresponding gear would be:
4.44 ............. 5415 rpm.
4.57 ............. 5575 rpm.
4.77 ............. 5815 rpm.
Now comes the typical question from people who really don't understand "real world" dynamics: "But won't the taller gears reduce the car's top speed?"
OK, "calculated" top speed of the various geared cars:
with....
4.10 ................... 172.55 mph @ 9000 rpm.
4.44 ................... 159.34
4.57 ................... 154.81
4.77 ................... 148.32
So here's the reality check:
This car CANNOT achieve it's "calculated" top speed when otherwise stock due to drag (both from aerodynamics and rolling resistance). The average reported top speed is about 150 mph on flat ground, no wind, car running normally.
Will a 4.44 equipped car reach its calculated top speed? Probably not.
A 4.57 car? Maybe.
A 4.77 car? Most likely.
So, in as much as all these cars are concerned, the real world top speed is really not that different from one car to the next.
Another real world observation:
If you typically drive around in 3rd gear at your "usual" speed, then yes, your rpm with gears will be slightly higher, BUT, most people find themselves just going to the next gear (4th) when just doing their "usual" speed. So, their new "usual" engine speed will actually have DECREASED slightly.
The only situation where that magazine "might" have any relavence would be in 6th gear highway cruising where the geared car WILL run at a slightly higher rpm at any given speed.
Worse case scenario:
4.77 equipped car will turn 16.3% more rpm than a stock car. Will this equate to 16.3% more wear and tear? Unless lab tests are conducted, I don't think we can make that assumption. This engine has a great lubrication and cooling system (and special liners) and only the pre-mid '02 cars will still have the old 2 hole oiljet bolts. For those cars, it would not be a bad idea to get the new 4 hole bolts put in when doing gears. This is not a complicated or expensive job.
The UPSIDE? With gears, this car can no longer be considered a slug because of lack of low end torque. Drive in any geared car and you will see that the acceleration is impressive. For all the money that people put into their cars (and most will achieve minimal gains) this one is the best bang for the buck, especially in light of the most recent reduction in cost of the parts.
However, there is a caution: The correct installation and calibration of the gears and the proper break in and fluid maintenance is CRITICAL. If these are not addressed, "gears" will be your worst nightmare.







