Single tick from rear when starting to move
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Columbia, MD
Single tick from rear when starting to move
I have to come to a complete stop and start moving again to hear the noise. It doesn't matter if it's forward or reverse. I originally thought it only happened when I was making a turn from a stop, but it's possible I just wasn't paying much attention to it...it seems to happen regardless, as long as I come to a complete stop. It's a single, metallic click, definitely from the rear. Unknown as to the exact location as I have not had anyone help track it down, so it could be near the wheel (CV joint?) or near the tranny (diff?). Been going on for several months, at least, not sure if it's getting louder, but now that I know it's there it's certainly more noticeable.
Any ideas/suggestions?
Any ideas/suggestions?
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,491
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From: Rochester, NY
When I first noticed mine, it was the beginning of my inner CV joints going bad (just inside warranty). However, that progressed rather quickly - inside a month I had "roaring" on acceleration.
I'd take it to the dealer and suggest that they ponder the CV joints whilst checking the axle nut tightness...
I'd take it to the dealer and suggest that they ponder the CV joints whilst checking the axle nut tightness...
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,134
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From: Columbia, MD
Any estimation on time to check these two items during the next tech meet, assuming I have the Helm's manual at the ready?
Determining tightness of the axle nut seems straightforward enough, but what should I be looking for on the CV joints? Wheel wobble, rotation of wheel without axle, etc.?
Determining tightness of the axle nut seems straightforward enough, but what should I be looking for on the CV joints? Wheel wobble, rotation of wheel without axle, etc.?
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Linden, VA (West by God)
Assuming it isn't the CV joints (an easy check is to just look at the boots. If they're ripped, they're the CV's are likely toast), the fix is pretty easy. I'm more inclined to think, given your description, that it's just the rear axle splines needing some grease.
Here's my writeup on how I took care of mine:
Here's my writeup on how I took care of mine:
Ok guys... I ended up getting the tools and parts to do this tonight. Here's my report:
1)Tools needed:
- 36mm socket
- torque wrench that reads in excess of 225ft/lbs
- grease
- screwdriver
- hammer (preferrably a dead blow, but a regular one will do)
- compressed air (like the kind you buy to clean keyboards at Office Depot... make sure it has the little red extender deal)
You don't need to remove the wheels. Just pop your center caps off. Try use the hammer and screwdriver to lift up the depression in the spindle nut where it was previously drifted (you'll see when you pop the center cap).
Use the 36mm socket to remove the spindle nut. You'll notice it comes off easier than it will go back on (at least mine did... it was definitely torqued at less than 225 ft/lbs).
Smear as much grease as you can around the base of the spindle (using the screwdriver helps). Then use the compressed air to force the grease down further onto the spindle. Take your time and get as much in there as you can.
Put spindle nut back on and torque to 225ft/lbs (ouch... my poor back). Use the hammer and screwdriver (or a drift if you have one) to depress the spindle nut (again, obvious when you see it). I'd recommend a new spindle nut, but you can get away without it.
Repeat for the other axle.
I then took the car for a drive and did my best to get it to make noise again... and couldn't. Problem seems resolved.
1)Tools needed:
- 36mm socket
- torque wrench that reads in excess of 225ft/lbs
- grease
- screwdriver
- hammer (preferrably a dead blow, but a regular one will do)
- compressed air (like the kind you buy to clean keyboards at Office Depot... make sure it has the little red extender deal)
You don't need to remove the wheels. Just pop your center caps off. Try use the hammer and screwdriver to lift up the depression in the spindle nut where it was previously drifted (you'll see when you pop the center cap).
Use the 36mm socket to remove the spindle nut. You'll notice it comes off easier than it will go back on (at least mine did... it was definitely torqued at less than 225 ft/lbs).
Smear as much grease as you can around the base of the spindle (using the screwdriver helps). Then use the compressed air to force the grease down further onto the spindle. Take your time and get as much in there as you can.
Put spindle nut back on and torque to 225ft/lbs (ouch... my poor back). Use the hammer and screwdriver (or a drift if you have one) to depress the spindle nut (again, obvious when you see it). I'd recommend a new spindle nut, but you can get away without it.
Repeat for the other axle.
I then took the car for a drive and did my best to get it to make noise again... and couldn't. Problem seems resolved.
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,491
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From: Rochester, NY
[QUOTE]Originally posted by MacGyver
Any estimation on time to check these two items during the next tech meet, assuming I have the Helm's manual at the ready?
Determining tightness of the axle nut seems straightforward enough, but what should I be looking for on the CV joints?
Any estimation on time to check these two items during the next tech meet, assuming I have the Helm's manual at the ready?
Determining tightness of the axle nut seems straightforward enough, but what should I be looking for on the CV joints?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,134
Likes: 3
From: Columbia, MD
Thanks, guys....since the check on the nut is so simple, I'll probably do that in the next couple of days. Don't believe I have a 36mm socket, but since when did a guy need an excuse to buy tools 
I'll give the boots a once over while I'm looking at it all.
I'll give the boots a once over while I'm looking at it all.
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Registered User
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Rochester, NY
The TSB can be found at https://www.s2ki.com/user/content/view/full/305/ (all TSBs are listed online here). Note that is is only for '00-'01 and some '02s...