Difficulty: Easy
Materials

- Torque Wench
- Teflon Tape
- 11/16 wrench
- 7/16 wrench
- 17mm socket
- 11/16 socket
- 3" ext.
- rachet

Step 1:

If you're working in your garage I reccomend doing these steps prior installation
- Turn OFF water heater (or you'll be sorry)
- Relieve Fuel Pres. by Removing Gas Cap and set aside.
- Relocate hood prop, so you can have more room to work w/ (optional)

Step 2.
- using your 17mm socket 3" extention and wrench, remove stock banjo bolt and set aside. (some fuel may leak out)
- Make sure you don't loose the crush washers on top and bottom of the banjo fuel line.
- Clean leaked off fuel



Step 3
- Here is the difference between the stock banjo bolt and the new banjo bolt where a fuel gauge can go.
- You can reuse one of the two silver washers or if you want an extra "peice of mind" you can buy a new one.
- Take your new banjo bolt, slide the copper crushwasher (round side up), then the banjo fuel line, then one of the stock silver crush washers.
- Hand tight, and then torque to 22 ft/lbs

 

Step 4
- Teflon tape the treads of the fuel pres gauge only!
- Hand tighten the fuel pres gauge on new banjo bolt
- Have your back up 11/16 open end wrench on banjo bolt and use a 7/16 wrench to tighen gauge.
- Be sure not to over tighten, 10lb/ft is good enough. or a couple turns by feel is good too



Step 5
- Make sure you have all tools accounted for
- Replace hood prop to original location and close hood
- Replace Gas Cap
- Wash Hands b/c it probably smells like gas.
- Congrats YOUR FINISH

 

The Fuel Pres. Guage is made by B&M cost me about 29.99 at my local speed shop.

You can buy the kit 46054 and it'll have everything you need to do the installation.

One other note I forgot in the installation.

Turn your water heater back ON! Unless you plan to shower in cold water Do it before you get yelled at from your Sister, Mom, or Girlfriend.

 

Nice DIY write-up

 

hold on...what happens to the FPR. Also did you cap the original spot where the OEM fuel line goes to with the dampner?

 

You loose the stock FPR when you install the Comptech s/c kit. The s/c kit comes w/ this nice big red FPR which is re-located somewhere else in the engine bay. The fuel hoses are re-routed, and pic1 is the finished product.

The B&M instrutions illustrated to tap into the Fuel Filter. I have no clue where that is. The easiest place to get a reading, was at the fuel rail by replaceing the stock banjo bolt and going from there.

The vortech kit is probably different, i haven't really seen it yet.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by swtazn97
You loose the stock FPR when you install the Comptech s/c kit.

 

For sure this is the cheapest and easy way to do it, excelent job!!!!!

 

nice wirte up Swtazn97 do you have the web address from B&M?

 

I tapped this one into the fuel rail and used the FPR space for a AEM FPR