Spoon rotors III - The saga draws to a close...
Ok. Here it is as promised. First instalment as I will do further testing, including using your input if you so desire.
I got myself a Fluke Infrared thermometer model 65. This is good for -40C to +500C (-40F to +932F). Accuracy +-2C > 0C. Below that, it gets worse (+-5C).
First a little aside. This is a must have! You can measure surface temperature of almost anything from a distance (some materials better than others). It is particularly good in spotting the hotter female colleagues... (do you mind, if I just quickly thermomap you?) I'll post pictures later (of the thermometer, not of the colleagues...).
Now, seriously, I'm having a ball with this, but then I have always been addicted to gadgets.
But let's press on with the matter. I've only run a few brief tests but so far I did indeed find a temperature difference between left and right rotors.
But before all you naysayers explode in a fit of self congratulating back slapping, let me further explain that this happened with the rear wheel rotors! I'll have to look into that and do some further experimenting.
Front rotors exhibited the same temperature ranges under moderate braking. After these tests I took the car to a short (3Kms) local and empty freeway and did some heavy braking from 180-200km/h to virtually stopped. In the end the front rotors were glowing red and a few flames were coming out of the pads under the calipers (scary, I regret now having them painted).
At that point the thermometer was out of range. Visually however both rotors had the same degree of redness and in a few moments the thermometer started to register similar temperatures for both rotors. The rear rotors never went over 250C, but there was a consistent difference between them (albeit small +-20C). I need to recheck this, because for obvious reasons, I was much more concerned about the front rotors.
I think this starts to put the argument to rest. From what I have read and seen I couldn't really believe that a company like Spoon would market a product as flawed as some people here were purporting. I'm happy to run whatever tests you feel are appropriate to settle this issue.
A final comment: after having seen the rotors glowing red, I don't think removing the rotor backplates is such a good idea. Those things were above 500C, and I suspect that the backplates offer some protection for components that lay just behind it (brakelines, etc...). My humble opinion: do not remove them.
I got myself a Fluke Infrared thermometer model 65. This is good for -40C to +500C (-40F to +932F). Accuracy +-2C > 0C. Below that, it gets worse (+-5C).
First a little aside. This is a must have! You can measure surface temperature of almost anything from a distance (some materials better than others). It is particularly good in spotting the hotter female colleagues... (do you mind, if I just quickly thermomap you?) I'll post pictures later (of the thermometer, not of the colleagues...).
Now, seriously, I'm having a ball with this, but then I have always been addicted to gadgets.
But let's press on with the matter. I've only run a few brief tests but so far I did indeed find a temperature difference between left and right rotors.
But before all you naysayers explode in a fit of self congratulating back slapping, let me further explain that this happened with the rear wheel rotors! I'll have to look into that and do some further experimenting.
Front rotors exhibited the same temperature ranges under moderate braking. After these tests I took the car to a short (3Kms) local and empty freeway and did some heavy braking from 180-200km/h to virtually stopped. In the end the front rotors were glowing red and a few flames were coming out of the pads under the calipers (scary, I regret now having them painted).
At that point the thermometer was out of range. Visually however both rotors had the same degree of redness and in a few moments the thermometer started to register similar temperatures for both rotors. The rear rotors never went over 250C, but there was a consistent difference between them (albeit small +-20C). I need to recheck this, because for obvious reasons, I was much more concerned about the front rotors.
I think this starts to put the argument to rest. From what I have read and seen I couldn't really believe that a company like Spoon would market a product as flawed as some people here were purporting. I'm happy to run whatever tests you feel are appropriate to settle this issue.
A final comment: after having seen the rotors glowing red, I don't think removing the rotor backplates is such a good idea. Those things were above 500C, and I suspect that the backplates offer some protection for components that lay just behind it (brakelines, etc...). My humble opinion: do not remove them.
Originally posted by mingster:
Luis, so you're saying that the cross drilled rotors didn't do a thing?
Luis, so you're saying that the cross drilled rotors didn't do a thing?
to follow the thread.
Basically I don't know if the rotors did or did not do a thing. I understand the theory behind it, but I don't have any real world measurements to support the effectiveness of the upgrade.
This thread follows from others (above) where some people proposed that the Spoon upgrade was inherently flawed. I am not convinced by the naysayers, and I'm trying to get data to prove or refute these assertions.
For the record, I do not think there is anything inherently wrong with the stock brake system, except that it rusts and looks ugly. If on top of better looks I get better or similar performance, all the best. If it gets proven that they are detrimental to the braking performance of my car, they will come off.
Originally posted by mingster:
if the holes were cast into the rotor and not drilled, then the strength of the rotor would be better, right?
if the holes were cast into the rotor and not drilled, then the strength of the rotor would be better, right?
The issue under discussion is whether for a street car like the S2000,
1) handed rotors are a must or
2) a concession to the purists that think that because Indy cars have them, your run-of-the-mill sports car should as well.
So far, DBA, a rotor manufacturer in OZ, thinks 2) while some experienced people in these fora think 1). Me, I'm trying to find out, as I was gullible enough to buy them without proper research.
To my fellow gadget freak, Luis
Good going.... nothing like real world tests.
I gotta get me one of those infrared types too. I only have the PROBE type pyrometers and you've gotta be really close to use these. However, the readings you get will be much more accurate, that goes for cars too. GET IT....
RED HOT and FLAMES!
I never got my brakes that far, even on the track. I got it such that you can stand and few feet from the wheels and feel the heat from the rotors. However, at this point the brakes already exhibited fading and the fluid would start boiling! Since, you did not mention anything about "soft" brake pedals, I assume you did not experience any fluid boil. You must be using new and hi-temp fluid or the Spoon rotors decipates heat much more rapidly.
Anyway, the $64,000 question is, At any time did you experience any "pull" when braking hard? Assuming that your brakes were well into the "fade" region.
I've always been impressed with how good the ABS is on the S2000. Since, you had mentioned that temperatures where higher on one side (Front and rear) I wonder if the ABS is "smart" enough to compensate for any differences. Again, assuming that you were braking in a straight line.
BTW, there are some pyrometers that can read up to 2000 Fahrenheit. These you use for the real "hot" stuff.
Thanks, for sharing.
Good going.... nothing like real world tests.
I gotta get me one of those infrared types too. I only have the PROBE type pyrometers and you've gotta be really close to use these. However, the readings you get will be much more accurate, that goes for cars too. GET IT....

RED HOT and FLAMES!
I never got my brakes that far, even on the track. I got it such that you can stand and few feet from the wheels and feel the heat from the rotors. However, at this point the brakes already exhibited fading and the fluid would start boiling! Since, you did not mention anything about "soft" brake pedals, I assume you did not experience any fluid boil. You must be using new and hi-temp fluid or the Spoon rotors decipates heat much more rapidly.Anyway, the $64,000 question is, At any time did you experience any "pull" when braking hard? Assuming that your brakes were well into the "fade" region.
I've always been impressed with how good the ABS is on the S2000. Since, you had mentioned that temperatures where higher on one side (Front and rear) I wonder if the ABS is "smart" enough to compensate for any differences. Again, assuming that you were braking in a straight line.
BTW, there are some pyrometers that can read up to 2000 Fahrenheit. These you use for the real "hot" stuff.

Thanks, for sharing.
Originally posted by BBSpoon:
Since, you had mentioned that temperatures where higher on one side (Front and rear)
Since, you had mentioned that temperatures where higher on one side (Front and rear)
Let me stress that: I couldn't find any consistent difference in temperature between left and right front rotors which to me indicates that the directional vanes argument is bogus for a street car like ours.
Braking was done on a straight line just on the brink of ABS activation. No one sided pull that I could discern, except from what you'd expect from road irregularities.
I confess I was a little surprised by how hot the rotors got. I suspect I would get a similar result with the stock rotors as the difference in total mass is less than 5%. This should be partially offset by the additional ventilation provided by the drills.
Hopefully, due to better pad contact, the car was braking harder than with the stock rotors which in turn would generate additional heat leading to higher rotor temperature. But this is wishfull thinking and speculation. I would need to compare with the stock rotors on reproduceable conditions and that is beyond my current technical capabilites just at this moment.
Now, who else has seen their rotors glowing red?
PS. important consideration: the test was done at night where these things are much more noticeable.
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Luis, it would be interesting to know if the dynamic cooling between the left and right were significantly different. Drive an additional Km or so after you get them hot to see if one cools faster at speed, instead of the static radiant deal. That's where the backward forward thing would make a difference, if there were a difference.
What does that temp device cost? Sounds like fun
How were you able to see the flames while you were driving
or was it still flaming after you stopped and got out?
What does that temp device cost? Sounds like fun

How were you able to see the flames while you were driving
or was it still flaming after you stopped and got out?




