Car shakes when braking over 100+ mph. Anything under 100 mph the car doesn't shake at all. I also think I feel a pulsating brake pedal. Would the ABS engage when braking under these speeds?

I'm currently running 18 Volks, but I'm not running the hub ceramic rings. Could this be the problem? Alignment? Shocks?

Thanks in advance.

 

possible warped rotor?
the pulsing of the brake pedal may indicate rotor problem - may not occur at all speeds. I've experience premature rotor warping on my Jeep vehicle - and pulsing at various speeds is what it feels like.
could occur from improper cooling of rotors
could happen from a single wheel bolt being over torqued
could occur from malaligned/improper install of disc pads

 

What brake pads are you using? Maybe they just aren't up to the task.

 

 

I using OEM pads.

The last hard run I had was through the mountains. It was for a period of 20 minutes of very hard driving and braking going down the mountain. When I was done, all my brakes where smoking for a period of 2 minutes.

Would overheating the brakes/rotors cause warping? I also noticed that when I was finished, I heard a metal scraping sound coming from the wheels. Sounded like the brake pads where scaping the rotors every time the wheels did a full rotation. The sound wasn't constant, instead, it would occur every 2 seconds traveling at 10 mph.

Can you visually tell is a rotor is indeed warped?

Thanks Liem.

 

It can. Especially if you put the parking brake on before the brakes cooled down.

 

I know not to put the E-brake on after spirited driving.

I guess it's time for some G3000.

Thanks guys.

 

The OEM pads are great for normal street use, but if you heated them up to the point where the brakes were smoking for two minutes they might be destroyed. Pull them off and look at them. If they are white and crumbly you have cooked them.

Getting them that hot probably also messed up the deposition layer on the rotors. If so, you can probably just put new pads on and follow the bedding process, which might scrape off any bad stuff on the rotors. Or it might not.

Anyway, if you are going to drive like that often I recommend stepping up to higher temp pads than OEM. If you do, though, you will probably have to live with more dusting and more brake noise.

I save my hard driving for the track, and then I swap full track pads in before I go out. Afterwards I put the street pads back in, because track pads are a pain in regular street driving.

 

Others have said alot of good things here.

Brake components are one of the most over looked maintenance items. It is very important to keep your pads fresh and as well as fluid clean.

With help of a fellow local S2ki member, we have replaced brake pads and fluid changed on my car today. OEM pads are sufficient enough for spirited and normal driving. I will even venture to say, it is fine for track use as well. Fellow member who helped me with the work today is an avid track enthusiasts and he feels the same way. You just have to watch pad wears and change them frequently.

FWIW: I am using ATE Super Blue racing fluid.

So far, braking is linear, smooth and requires less force to the pedal vs. prior to change.

 

Regarding your brake probmes, it sounds like you've warped the rotors. You could have them resurfaced, but new rotors aren't *that* much.


Big ups for The ATE Super Blue, it's great stuff.

Re track pad: I glazed the OEM pads at my first track day, I went to the Carbotech Panter+ pads and I have 4 track days on them wiht not problems apart from a TON of brake dust.