I'm looking to lower my car and need some advice. First off, I have the 18" Workmeisters with 225's front and 245's rear.
What style is recommended?
How low to go?
Any handling differences?
I apreciate any responses. Thank you.

 

No Rice, I have 18s with 255's in the rear, and my car is lowered with H&R Springs.
Its a little over an inch drop.

Looks much better. More aggressive.
And no problems associated with it.
Highly recommend it.

If you go to the Florida meet in Orlando (Jan 27), you can check it out for yourself. I will be there.

 

No Rice,
You have the same wheel and tire set up as I do. I used RM Racing's springs. Lowered the car about an inch, Maybe less.
No problems rubbing, or aligning the car to factory specs.

 

Aaron/PntyDrpr, thanks for the replies. So you guys did just the springs and not the shocks right? Who did the work for you? Seems to be a complicated task. I'll be at Classic, Pnty Drpr, on the 27th. Can't wait to see your car. I definately want to lower mine.

 

yeah, I was wondering the same thing, springs only? no shocks? Does that affect the car in any way or no?

 

AaronS2k + No Rice,

I have a set of Work Meisters on order and was wondering if that "Work Meister S2R" label on the inside rim comes off... I like really clean cars with absolutely no labels.

No Rice, I know what size tires you have but what about you AaronS2k? I am going to order BF Goodrich G-Force T/A KD 225/40 in front and 265/35 in the back (just like Comptech has).

Thanks guys!

 

get the springs too. while you wont feel any effects initially, after a while (months? a year?) there will be lots of unnecessary bounciness.

 

The labels on the wheels are just stickers so I am sure you would be able to remove them.
I have 225 40 and 245 35 Toyo Proxies T1S. My next rears will be 255 35 Toyo Proxies T1S
I did just Springs, no shocks.

 

I thought Comptech's car has 255x35x18 in the rear.

 

Lowering springs on stock shocks will always lead to premature wear, but premature does not necessarily mean immediate or even in the near future. Depending on the spring rates, usually there will be SOME bounciness, but it can be anywhere from barely noticable even when looking for it to making you toss your lunch all over the damn car (I had this experience with one set of springs I had for my integra).

Anyway, lowering a car isn't very hard if you've worked on cars before, but it can be very difficult if you haven't. The S2000 is the easiest car I've lowered. You just remove the three upper mount nuts, the lower mount bolt, and the two front castle nuts. Two special tools are needed for the job and it's a must that you don't **** up on these...

First, you must have a decent spring compressor. Most of these will look like a couple of claws with a screw connecting them. You should have TWO of these and a safety attachment for each one. You use one on each side. Use it to take the load off the spring before you take the cap off of the shock. Some of these wont fit on some springs... there's really no way to tell ahead of time, so you'll just have to find out through trial and error. I had trouble with one from Kragen on the stock springs for my Integra. Also, be VERY careful when you use these as they are not safe and people have been seriously injured by them in the past. The tension on that spring will take a lot more than just your eye out. You can rent them for free at most auto parts stores with a $40 or $50 deposit or just buy one at Harbor Freight Tools for $12. I hate the people at the harbor freight in my area and their tools are not reliable, but I have had no problems with the spring compressor I bought there. If you have access to a shop, some shops have wall mounted spring compressors that are much more safe.

The second special tool you need is a 2-arm gear puller and I do NOT recommend getting it at Harbor Freight (I broke three of them from Harbor Freight before I gave in and got a Craftsman one that works great). Anyway, after you remove the castle nuts on the front, the ball join will not just fall apart. They will need to be forced apart. DO NOT USE A REGULAR BALL JOINT REMOVER ON THEM!!!!!!!! It will ruin the dust boots on the ball joint. Take the 2 arm gear puller, attach the claws to the lower arm and use the point to push the ball joint out. It will take quite a bit of pressure and when it comes apart it will be rather violent.

Other than that it's all straight forward. I don't know why I just went into all that, but I felt like it. HTH.

BTW, I use HKS springs and they work pretty well. 27mm lower in the front 29mm lower in the rear. Ride is good. Scrapes on everything. Also, if anyone needs a technical writer, I need a job and I think I might be able to write without explitives :-)