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UK & Ireland S2000 CommunityDiscussions related to the S2000, its ownership and enthusiasm for it in the UK and Ireland. Including FAQs, and technical questions.
OK, by popular demand of at least 1 UK S2000 owner here's my tips. Don't be put off at the length of the post - I'm just trying to point out as much a possible that could help.
Firstly, changing the bulbs isn't tricky, just awkward. Access to the back of the lights is restricted, so even if you've small hands like me it takes a bit of faffing for some bits.
What you need:
- Pair of replacement bulbs
- A torch or an inspection lamp. I used an inspection lamp first time, torch the second. I found the torch a bit better.
- Somewhere off the road, under cover if you can. You'll end up in some funny positions draped over the front wings to get your arm in the right position.
- Patience. It will take a few attempts for some bits, because you can't see what you're doing. Don't get frustrated! Just take you're time.
- You're Honda Owners manual. It does detail the basic steps, but not what to watch for.
Before I go into details, here's a picture of the back of the headlight courtesy of Biker1. (Thanks Nigel.)
- I'd advise starting with the passeger side. There is more light that side, and it's easier to get your arm in. First time, I started on the drivers side which is a bit more tricky.
- Pull the coolant overflow bottle up and rest it somewhere by the airbox as in the owner's manual. You should now have access through a gap in the front inside wing to the back of the light.
- Take the power cable off the back of the main beam housing. It's simple to identify. Just look where your hand is, and where the main beam is from the front of the car. Also, you can trace the wiring. The wiring for the main beam branches of a bundle of wiring. The wiring that it branches off is clearly visible and wrapped, while the main beam wires themselves aren't wrapped after they branch off. If in doubt look in with the torch/light.
- Now you need to take the rubber 'boot' off the back of the housing. This is clearly visible in the picture. This actually grips both around the connector in the centre, and around the edge. It does just pull out, but it can be a bit awkward. I'd recommend pulling the top off first - there's a tab you can see in the picture. Grab this and pull carefully. Once the top lets go it's easy to free the boot. You'll have to pinch in in order to get it out though - space is quite tight.
- Next comes the wire clip that holds the bulb holder in place. This is where the torch really pays dividends. Have a good look inside. The clip is a bent piece of wire. It goes from one side, over the holder, and clips onto a bit of plastic, about 180 degrees from where the clip is screwed down on the left. Make sure you take a good look. I didn't first time, so I spent 30 mins trying to figure out how the clip worked.
- To take the wire clip off, unhook it from the plastic clip. It should then just pivot on where it's screwed down. You can pivot it far enough to clear the holder easily. It takes a bit of pressure to release the clip - but don't force it. If you've had a good look you know eactly which was to press to release it. Bear in mind that when you've your hand it you can't see what you're doing.
- With the clip out of the way you'll find the bulb holder/bulb is rattling around. It's now easy to take this out. Be careful not to catch the bulb on the housing when first freeing it - you can see what you're doing here by looking into the headlamp from the front. Hold the black plastic, not the contacts - the contacts and the connector a filled with grease to avoid bad connections due to corrosion.
- The holder itself is back plastic. The bulb is a simple spade push fit. So change the bulb, taking care not to touch the glass.
- You'll notice that the metal base of the bulb has two metal dimples, which are staggered. You'll notice the same stagger in the holes in the headlamp housing.
- Now it's time to put the holder/new bulb in. Again, you'll find it takes a bit of faffing as space is tight. You can see the tip of the bulb looking in from the front of the headlight. Just take care not to scratch the bulb. When you've got the glass part of the bulb in the housing, check to see if the dimple's match the holes. If not, simply move the bulb back in, and do twist it 180 and put it back. There is a positive feel when you've located it correctly. Now the holder is in place, but not secured. Keep one finger holding the holder in place, and using anther finger pivot the wire clip back over the holder. This isn't anything like as difficult as it sounds. Don't try to do the clip up yet - just rest the clip across the holder. This stops it falling out.
- Take your hand out amd look in again. Now you can check if the clip's in the right place. I found this a big help - next stage is doing the clip up. This is quick and simple if you push the right way. Looking how to push before you do it helps. Again, first time I spend a while trying to get the clip on correctly. It does take some effort to get it past the catch on the bit of plastic, but fi you're happy which way to push it is straightforward.
- You should now have the holder firmly clipped in place with your new bulb. Spend a few seconds looking in from the front to make sure it's correctly located, and do the same for the clip. The next stage is the tricky bit, so make sure you're happy here to avoid having to go back. It's simple to connect and test the bulb now bofore you put the boot back on. I did. Sure 99.999% of bulbs will be fine, but...
- Next is getting the rubber boot back on. This is certainly the bit I found most faffy. Before you put the boot back on have a look and play with it. There's two things to note. The centre section that grabs round the bulb holder can be moved in and out. It's obvious when you play with it. Secondly there's the tab at the top, and two little drain tubes at the bottom. Also have a look at the back of the headlight - you'll see the space where the boot fits.
- Start by just getting the boot back behind the headlamp. You'll have to bend it over a bit to get it in as space is tight. Don't worry about keeping the tab at the top for now - there a trick for that later.
- Remember how the centre section pushes out? Well, push this out and git it over the back of the holder. This isn't too tricky as you can feel for the contacts through the hole in the boot. Again, don't worry about keeping the tab on top. Once you've got this in place things are easier as the boot isn't going anyway. Getting the boot to align with the housing is quite easy now. The trick is to feel where the tabs are on the boot and the metal housing. Then you'll find it's quite easy to twist the boot around the bulb holder. Take a little time getting it to match - look in to check.
- Now you've the boot on the bulb holder and lined up with the housing it's easy to get it fully on. If you look in the picture you'll notice the boot goes between two pieces of metal, not over them. There's a definite slot for the tab from the boot - clearly visible in the picture. Start by pushing the boot into the metal slot at the top where the tab is. Once you're happy this is in place, simply work your way around - there isn't any real effort or stretching required.
- Next, have a good look again to make sure the boot's seated correctly. The centre section might be a little twisted like in the photo. Don't worry about this - mine can from the factory like this.
- Hook the connector backup again. That's one side done.
- Finally for the passenger side, replace the cooland overflow bottle.
The driver side is the same, but acess is little harder. There's a metal plate on that side that makes things a bit more awkward. So I'd recommend doing the passenger side first, so you've done one beforehand.
Biker1 had trouble with the rubber boots as well. He recommended to me to just peel the bottom of the boot off, rather than taing it fully off. In the end I found I couldn't get the clip undone without taking the boot right off. The procedure I've outlined for getting the boot back on is what I did second time, and I found it simple enough.
Finally, check both main beams work, and see if you notice and change in aligment. Probably a good idea to get the alignment checked next time it's convient.
Disclaimer: If you have problems, or damage your car changing the bulbs that's your problem. I don't think you'll have any problems, but I'm offering this as free advice. No warranty
Originally posted by Tifosi Red I'm going for the "core of the sun on a hot day" kind of light output PIAA Super Platinum White, the closest colour match to HID bulbs alegedly...
So these aren't actually HID lights, but are "normal" bulbs that give a much whiter light than the current ones??
[anorak] Yep, by using gases that generate more and whiter light when excited by a regular bulb filament you get lots of very natural light to better see the hedge your about to drive through. I think Xenon will be a pretty big component in them. [/anorak]
They're not HIDs but they should be plenty bright and match the "look" of them
12-12-2001, 09:44 AM
Good job. I'm sure this'll help many others.
PIAA Super Platinum White, the closest colour match to HID bulbs alegedly...
