Best Dino OIL for new s2k?
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From: Virginia
Best Dino OIL for new s2k?
Hey Guys,
I used to like catrol gtx for dino oil but, what is the current/ best respected dino oil for an s2k? First oil change and I want to run dino oil this time before I switch to mobil one.
Thanks,
Harold
I used to like catrol gtx for dino oil but, what is the current/ best respected dino oil for an s2k? First oil change and I want to run dino oil this time before I switch to mobil one.
Thanks,
Harold
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Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Virgnia
castrol gtx is one that is used by many here. i also use it. i'm at 7200 miles, and switched to gtx at 3400 miles. i may stick with it for a while, not sure if i'm gonna do synthetic, atleast not for a while.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Kansas City
Look, I'm a straight shooter so I'm going to be right to the point on this one.
Your question is no different than if I were going to the Electronics forum and posting "who makes the best CD player" or "who makes the best amp". You're going to get a slew of responses, all of them for different products, and 90% of the responses are going to sound like this "I've used Castrol in all my cars and never had a problem
". Well that's great but it doesn't tell us ANYTHING about the oil, that also doesn't mean that a problem wasn't there, just that people haven't run into any problems YET.
You've asked a question that cannot be answered with anything other than personal opinion. There are some guys on here that will whore out a specific brand name all day long with zero scientific data to back it up. By and large, stick with a name brand dino oil within the recommended weight because they'll all be the same.
Now, I'm going to give you my PERSONAL opinion on what I'd use if I was in your situation. I like Moly, I think it's good to have and the factory fill in your S2000 is already loaded with it thanks to the massive amounts of engine assembly lube that Honda uses at the factory. Moly helps metal parts wear, it acts as a barrier protectant among other things and it's a popular additive for gear oils. If I were you I would choose a dino oil that was high in Moly. Current oils that are high in Moly are Pennzoil (yellow bottle) and Valvoline Maxlife. Havoline used to have a bunch of moly but they recently reformulated it, I'm not sure how much moly the new product contains. Castrol GTX has virtually zero moly, norr do Mobil DriveClean or QuakerState.
I'm not saying GTX, QuakerState, or DriveClean 5000 are bad oils because they aren't. I'm just saying that in your specific case, I'd pick something with some moly in it. Does that sort of answer your question?
Your question is no different than if I were going to the Electronics forum and posting "who makes the best CD player" or "who makes the best amp". You're going to get a slew of responses, all of them for different products, and 90% of the responses are going to sound like this "I've used Castrol in all my cars and never had a problem
". Well that's great but it doesn't tell us ANYTHING about the oil, that also doesn't mean that a problem wasn't there, just that people haven't run into any problems YET.You've asked a question that cannot be answered with anything other than personal opinion. There are some guys on here that will whore out a specific brand name all day long with zero scientific data to back it up. By and large, stick with a name brand dino oil within the recommended weight because they'll all be the same.
Now, I'm going to give you my PERSONAL opinion on what I'd use if I was in your situation. I like Moly, I think it's good to have and the factory fill in your S2000 is already loaded with it thanks to the massive amounts of engine assembly lube that Honda uses at the factory. Moly helps metal parts wear, it acts as a barrier protectant among other things and it's a popular additive for gear oils. If I were you I would choose a dino oil that was high in Moly. Current oils that are high in Moly are Pennzoil (yellow bottle) and Valvoline Maxlife. Havoline used to have a bunch of moly but they recently reformulated it, I'm not sure how much moly the new product contains. Castrol GTX has virtually zero moly, norr do Mobil DriveClean or QuakerState.
I'm not saying GTX, QuakerState, or DriveClean 5000 are bad oils because they aren't. I'm just saying that in your specific case, I'd pick something with some moly in it. Does that sort of answer your question?
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From: Virginia
anyone with some scientific proof or links?
Oil Additives
Use of additives is another approach to improving and maintaining oil performance. High engine temperatures combine with moisture, combustion byproducts (including unburned gasoline), rust, corrosion, engine wear particles and oxygen to produce sludge and varnish. The additives not only assist oil in maintaining good lubrication, they also help minimize sludge and varnish, and any damage from their formation. Here are the categories of key additive ingredients and why they're important:
Viscosity-index improvers: Reduce the oil's tendency to thin with increasing temperature.
Detergents: Unlike the household type, they don't scrub engine surfaces. They do remove some deposits, primarily solids. But their main purpose is to keep the surfaces clean by inhibiting the formation of high-temperature deposits, rust and corrosion.
Dispersants: Disperse solid particles, keeping them in solution, so they don't come together to form sludge, varnish and acids. Some additives work both as detergents and dispersants.
Antiwear agents: There are times when the lubricating film breaks down, so the antiwear agents have to protect the metal surfaces. A zinc and phosphorus compound called ZDDP is a long-used favorite, along with other phosphorus (and sulphur) compounds. If you musts know, ZDDP stand for zinc diakyl dithiophosphate.
Friction modifiers: These aren't the same as antiwear agents. They reduce engine friction and, so, can improve fuel economy. Graphite, molybdenum and other compounds are used.
Pour-point depressants: Just because the 0
Oil Additives
Use of additives is another approach to improving and maintaining oil performance. High engine temperatures combine with moisture, combustion byproducts (including unburned gasoline), rust, corrosion, engine wear particles and oxygen to produce sludge and varnish. The additives not only assist oil in maintaining good lubrication, they also help minimize sludge and varnish, and any damage from their formation. Here are the categories of key additive ingredients and why they're important:
Viscosity-index improvers: Reduce the oil's tendency to thin with increasing temperature.
Detergents: Unlike the household type, they don't scrub engine surfaces. They do remove some deposits, primarily solids. But their main purpose is to keep the surfaces clean by inhibiting the formation of high-temperature deposits, rust and corrosion.
Dispersants: Disperse solid particles, keeping them in solution, so they don't come together to form sludge, varnish and acids. Some additives work both as detergents and dispersants.
Antiwear agents: There are times when the lubricating film breaks down, so the antiwear agents have to protect the metal surfaces. A zinc and phosphorus compound called ZDDP is a long-used favorite, along with other phosphorus (and sulphur) compounds. If you musts know, ZDDP stand for zinc diakyl dithiophosphate.
Friction modifiers: These aren't the same as antiwear agents. They reduce engine friction and, so, can improve fuel economy. Graphite, molybdenum and other compounds are used.
Pour-point depressants: Just because the 0
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Kansas City
If you're looking for scientific proof you can always check out Amsoil's supposed independent tests. But if those do anything at all they'll show you the benefit of a good synthetic.
If you're really down for discussing the nitty gritty on oil formulations and additives I would head over to www.bobistheoilguy.com. Join the forums there and you'll have more than you ever possibly wanted to know about oil, additives, and what they do.
Unfortunately, BITOG (bobistheoilguy) has been equally polluted by other people who are posting nothing but their opinion on why brand x is better. The article from PM is correct, manufacturers are under pressure to reduce the amount of certain additives in their oil. This is mainly for pollution concerns as several oil additives destroy catalytic converters in cars when they are burned. Manufacturers are still finding ways to make oil with less additives pass more stringent tests. The recent API SM/GF-4 tests are very rigorous, any oil passing those tests had to perform better than previous API SL/GF-3 rated oils. All of the SM oils that passed the test have less additives than there comparable SL counterparts yet they perform better.
What is interesting is that most companies are using additives that either aren't tested for or that just don't show up in basic test results that analyze oil. So just looking at a basic breakdown of an oil's additive package is far from telling the whole story about that particular oil. Castrol GTX and Valvoline both appear to have a "weak" additive package on a basic oil analysis. However, both oils perform very well and produce used oil analysis on many cars that show very low wear happening inside the engine. The article from PM is correct in stating that too many additives can ruin an oil, I would not recommend adding in any sort of 'oil booster' to your oil, such as Lucas or a similar product. Modern oils are formulated to work well with the additive package that is blended into them at the factory.
If you're really down for discussing the nitty gritty on oil formulations and additives I would head over to www.bobistheoilguy.com. Join the forums there and you'll have more than you ever possibly wanted to know about oil, additives, and what they do.
Unfortunately, BITOG (bobistheoilguy) has been equally polluted by other people who are posting nothing but their opinion on why brand x is better. The article from PM is correct, manufacturers are under pressure to reduce the amount of certain additives in their oil. This is mainly for pollution concerns as several oil additives destroy catalytic converters in cars when they are burned. Manufacturers are still finding ways to make oil with less additives pass more stringent tests. The recent API SM/GF-4 tests are very rigorous, any oil passing those tests had to perform better than previous API SL/GF-3 rated oils. All of the SM oils that passed the test have less additives than there comparable SL counterparts yet they perform better.
What is interesting is that most companies are using additives that either aren't tested for or that just don't show up in basic test results that analyze oil. So just looking at a basic breakdown of an oil's additive package is far from telling the whole story about that particular oil. Castrol GTX and Valvoline both appear to have a "weak" additive package on a basic oil analysis. However, both oils perform very well and produce used oil analysis on many cars that show very low wear happening inside the engine. The article from PM is correct in stating that too many additives can ruin an oil, I would not recommend adding in any sort of 'oil booster' to your oil, such as Lucas or a similar product. Modern oils are formulated to work well with the additive package that is blended into them at the factory.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,184
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From: Granville OH
IMO, you'd be hard pressed to find a "bad" dino oil, given the API SL requirements. All conventional motor oils are vastly improved over the stuff sold a few years ago.
Heck, I got rid of a Corolla last year with 298,000 miles on it and used primarily Wal-Mart SuperTech 5W-30 oil and SuperTech filters. That car has over 300,000 miles on it and is still running.
If you want to be good to your car, use the Honda PCX oil filter, get some long drives in occasionally (to burn off moisture that can accumulate in your oil) and change your oil regularly. This is more important than which oil you use.
Heck, I got rid of a Corolla last year with 298,000 miles on it and used primarily Wal-Mart SuperTech 5W-30 oil and SuperTech filters. That car has over 300,000 miles on it and is still running.
If you want to be good to your car, use the Honda PCX oil filter, get some long drives in occasionally (to burn off moisture that can accumulate in your oil) and change your oil regularly. This is more important than which oil you use.
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,420
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From: San Francisco
Havoline dino, according to the oil journals on this forum.
When I ran dino, I bought whatever brand name was on sale. Given how often people on this forum change their oil and how most people drive their car, I really don't think it matters.
When I ran dino, I bought whatever brand name was on sale. Given how often people on this forum change their oil and how most people drive their car, I really don't think it matters.