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Brake Caliper Painting DIY

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Old Aug 21, 2007 | 09:53 PM
  #1  
SmagsS2k's Avatar
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Default Brake Caliper Painting DIY

Many of you have already completed your brake caliper painting, but for the newer folks that would like to do a fairly easy mod and want to know the how-to's, please check out this post and pics. I'll try to keep it brief but also give you my "if I were to do it again" opinions.

Items needed for a detailed job, items in () would be optional if you plan on doing a simplified paint job.

Eye safety-WEAR PROTECTION!!!! You only have 2.

(Air compressor) Already had one!
(Air Grinder) or dremel tool but using a dremel will take forever to remove material. I purchased from harbour freight, a 20k RPM $15 tool.

(Craftsman Sanding Disc Kit #9-16410 $18)
(Craftsman 3"Twist-lock 60 or 80 Grit disc #9-64874 $7)
3 cans of brake cleaner 3/$3 = $9

G2 Brake Caliper Paint Kit $35 with shipping included from hubcapsplus.com

Shop rags $?

Other tools to remove brake caliper and caliper brackets.

Crescent Adj. wrench to hold nut retainer on caliper mounting.
Metric sockets 12MM, 14MM, 16MM if my memory is still good.
Torque Wrench to use when reassembly is done.
If completely removing caliper from brake line, you will need to plug the brake line where the banjo bolt passes thru. (I've used a 2" rubber hose, size may be 3/8")

My opinion DIO (Doing it over) Removing the caliper completely makes the grinding easier and the painting the caliper will be much easier. Otherwise you'll remove the brake line flange, which is attached to the control arm (12MM Socket). This will allow the brake caliper reach all the way to the floor provided that you have your car on jack stands.

The caliper brackets are held in place by 2 bolts on the back side of the hub assembly 14MM on the rears and 16MM or 18MM on the front, I can't remember. These are very tight and you'll need some arm strength or cheater bar.

Step 1. Remove all 4 tires after placing all 4 corners on jack stands. See other links if you need help with this.

Step 2. Spray the complete brake assembly with brake cleaner prior to disassembly. You may want to have a catch pan below to keep the dirty fluid from getting all on your floor.

I began to remove some of the material on the calipers and brakets prior to removing but thats up to you. I figured that since it was bolted down, it would be easier than holding in my hand and grinding with the other. Be careful not to hit the rubber boots on the caliper pins. Place a deep well socket over them if necessary.

Step 3. Remove brake caliper by removing the 2 bolts, socket on the outside bolt and a crescent wrench on the inside nut. See other post online for details on compressing the caliper to make it easier to remove. I used a wood working bar clamp to do mine.

My opinion DIO (Doing it over) Removing the caliper completely makes the grinding easier and the painting the caliper will be much easier. Otherwise you'll remove the brake line flange, which is attached to the control arm (12MM Socket). This will allow the brake caliper reach all the way to the floor provided that you have your car on jack stands.

Remove the brake pads and notice the orientation as the pads are different on inner and outer. I didn't remove the shims as I didn't replace my pads. I just cleaned them up. PLUG THE CALIPER BRAKE LINE PORT IN ORDER TO KEEP MATERIAL FROM CONTAMINATING THE CALIPER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Step 4. Remove the caliper brackets. They are held in place by 2 bolts on the back side of the hub assembly 14MM on the rears and 16MM or 18MM on the front, I can't remember. These are very tight and you'll need some arm strength or cheater bar.

Once removed you may want to spray clean again to keep you hands cleaner and anything they touch.

Step 5. Remove the small brake pad guides that snap onto the brackets. Clean and polish with 0000 steel wool if you like.

Step 6. Go to town removing as much of the rough material on the calipers and brackets. With everything apart, it makes it much easier to hit the small cracks and corners. Be careful not to grind on the area where the brake pad guides sit.

You make also want to remove one wheel at a time and grind one complete assembly so that you can use the untouch wheel as a reference. I smoothed probably more areas than I really needed to but I figured its better to do more since I've gotten this far.

Step 7. Follow the instructions on the paint kit!!!! Clean everything thoroughly. Tape off the rubber boots and and areas that you don't want to paint.


DONT MIX THE G2 PAINT IN A PLASTIC CUP!!!!!! Use glass or the can that it comes in. I split my portions in half so that I could do multiple coats. Well mid-way through the job the paint melted the plastic cup. OOPS!!!

Step 8. Paint!!!! I used the brush supplied but the finish wasn't as smooth as I would have liked. A small fine bristle hobby brush should work fine.

After the paint has cured 24hrs reassemble you entire brake assembly in reverse order. Make sure you torque all bolts. Bleed your system if you removed your brake lines at the caliper.


Shots of my steps are below. I hope that I haven't skiped anything major. Please seek advise and opinions on any step you're not comfortable with.







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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 04:02 AM
  #2  
jimmij's Avatar
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From: Lake Worth, FL
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Looks good. Thanks ray
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Old Aug 22, 2007 | 04:48 AM
  #3  
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Nice work Ray. Have set a link to this thread in our "Pinned" One Stop Shop thread
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 06:23 PM
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stlvtec's Avatar
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From: St. Charles, MO
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Originally Posted by 8BALL,Aug 22 2007, 06:48 AM
Nice work Ray. Have set a link to this thread in our "Pinned" One Stop Shop thread
Mike/Ron....You may want to throw this link on there somewhere too.

S2000 DIY

Lots or useful tips....
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