CR Suspension Question
I've searched a lot about the CR suspension but I haven't been able to find the answer I'm looking for. I have a '00 S2k that I've been autocrossing for ~6months now and I'll be going to Road Atlanta w/ it in August. I was going to get an aftermarket FSB to help w/ the oversteer in my car but I was thinking about just getting the CR sprinsg instead since the '00 have largest FSB I wouldn't see as big a benefit from it as a later model s2k. However, my question is would the CR springs help any w/ my oversteer problems or would they make it worse? For reference my alignment settings are the same as what is recommended in the FAQ above.
From what I've seen, the CR springs are indeed significantly stiffer. One figure I saw noted about a 150% increase on the front springs alone. I think that alone would reduce a lot of oversteer.
Even though the front springs are stiffer, without knowing the other changes to the suspension, it's impossible to predict the effect on handling balance. If you simply change just the front springs, that should help with oversteer, but you may cause other handling ills that you aren't anticipating.
When I was autocrossing my '00, a larger front sway bar was a requirement!
Be careful with changing out springs. In SCCA that is not allowed in stock class (AS) and will move you to Street Prepared (BSP I think).
When I was autocrossing my '00, a larger front sway bar was a requirement!
Be careful with changing out springs. In SCCA that is not allowed in stock class (AS) and will move you to Street Prepared (BSP I think).
I'm not worried about classing, I just run in a local class street tire class, where any car can run w/ any mods as long as it's on street tires. I was going to get the front and rear springs as well, not just the fronts. I know the larger fsb would help but I was just looking for a different way to help improve the handling. I'll most likely pick up a used saner bar since it takes so long to get one when ordered if one ever pops up in the classifieds. I just wanted to make sure that these springs wouldn't worsen my oversteer problems, that they'd actually help.
As an aside, I was actually born in Davie, FL though I moved to Knoxville, TN when I was 3...
As an aside, I was actually born in Davie, FL though I moved to Knoxville, TN when I was 3...
If you're just going to run on street tires, don't do anything. I found the car to be perfectly balanced with the right alignment on street tires. It got, really, really bad as soon as I put Rs on though.
What do you consider the right alignment? I used the specs in the faq and I can get my car sideways going as slow as 20mph just turning the wheel fairly sharp. I've been doing autoxs/hpdes for ~10yrs and this is the 1st car that I just haven't been comfortable in while racing. The rearend is just to loose for my liking. I feel like I'm chasing my rearend around either on the autox course or if I push the car a little on the parkway or deals gap. I just don't want to get to RA and not be able to drive the car descently hard in the corners without backing it into a wall. I guess I'll just order them and see what they do, they're cheap enough and I can always resale them if I don't like them.
What other cars have you driven? In my experience an S2000 with stock-sized street tires will be driveable but loose; if you've never driven a loose car before, it's unnerving.
Are you talking about installing the front springs alone, or the rear springs as well? Installing just the front springs should reduce your oversteer, but it's hard to say how much without knowing the spring rates -- I don't think anyone's done that before. Installing the CR springs on all four corners might not help your oversteer at all -- it may even worsen it if the CR rear springs are stiffer relative to the fronts than the stock MY00 springs.
All this leads to the question: why are you trying to forge new ground here instead of following the conventional wisdom? Installing a stiffer front bar is a known, tested way of taming the back end; installing springs of unknown rate is not. Personally, I'd rather install the front bar and know than install springs and hope...
Are you talking about installing the front springs alone, or the rear springs as well? Installing just the front springs should reduce your oversteer, but it's hard to say how much without knowing the spring rates -- I don't think anyone's done that before. Installing the CR springs on all four corners might not help your oversteer at all -- it may even worsen it if the CR rear springs are stiffer relative to the fronts than the stock MY00 springs.
All this leads to the question: why are you trying to forge new ground here instead of following the conventional wisdom? Installing a stiffer front bar is a known, tested way of taming the back end; installing springs of unknown rate is not. Personally, I'd rather install the front bar and know than install springs and hope...
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The CR rear springs are not stiffer relative to the front, but I would be concerned about the AP1 front shocks being able to handle the stiffer springs. The CR has shocks specifically valved to match the stiffer spring rates. While the rear rates are pretty close, the front spring rate difference between the CR and MY2000 is pretty significant (218 vs. 375).
So I would consider getting a set of shocks to match the stiffer springs if I was making that change. In fact, instead of spending $225+ on the CR springs, I would get a set of Ground Control sleeves for about $100 more. With the GC you can change springs if you're not happy with what you have. Used pairs go for about $80 and you can sell the ones being replaced.
So I would consider getting a set of shocks to match the stiffer springs if I was making that change. In fact, instead of spending $225+ on the CR springs, I would get a set of Ground Control sleeves for about $100 more. With the GC you can change springs if you're not happy with what you have. Used pairs go for about $80 and you can sell the ones being replaced.
Originally Posted by Hobbs00S2k,May 26 2008, 07:23 AM
What do you consider the right alignment? I used the specs in the faq and I can get my car sideways going as slow as 20mph just turning the wheel fairly sharp. I've been doing autoxs/hpdes for ~10yrs and this is the 1st car that I just haven't been comfortable in while racing. The rearend is just to loose for my liking. I feel like I'm chasing my rearend around either on the autox course or if I push the car a little on the parkway or deals gap. I just don't want to get to RA and not be able to drive the car descently hard in the corners without backing it into a wall. I guess I'll just order them and see what they do, they're cheap enough and I can always resale them if I don't like them.
It really is a neutral car stock with those alignment settings. In a neutral RWD car, any severe movements with the wheel will either cause oversteer or understeer. Something is going to go. Sounds like you want a car that sits more on the understeer side of the equation.
If that's the case, a big front bar is what you want. It makes the car a lot slower with street tires, especially the stock ones. I personally found the understeer to be far too much - but it sounds like that's what you want.

We use the Gendron bar, great bar, will do exactly what you want.
I recently put the CR suspension and sway bars in my 01 AP1 and love it. I tracked for the first time with the new setup last weekend at CMP and was very pleased with the change.
I chose the CR over adjustable options because I suspect that if I start tinkering with adjustments I have a better chance of making it worse than making it handle better.
I chose the CR over adjustable options because I suspect that if I start tinkering with adjustments I have a better chance of making it worse than making it handle better.






