For those who used Mobil 1 or interested, here is an UOA. One road course day on the fluid, otherwise mucho highway miles in a short period of time.

5508 miles in ONLY 40 DAYS! Damn it.

On to the results:

Component: Engine
Fluid: Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-30
Miles: 5508
Vehicle Miles:~52000

Elements (ppm):
Al 2
B 48
Ca 1989
Cr 0
Cu 5
Fe 6
Pb 0
Mg 7
Mo 77
P 564
K 1
Si 7
Na 40 (will watch this, maybe additive from previous unknown fill, no antifreeze detected)
Sn 1
Zn 654

Oil Condition:
Fuel=No
Water=No
Antifreeze=No
Viscosity @ 100c=9.3

Wear metals look great to me. Will send in another sample soon to see if the sodium trends down. There some stuff on the web that says Mobil 1 has shown high iron wear levels, however, this is not the case with my S.

I had to find out for myself, because I have been using Mobil 1 Syn for years in my Supra with no problems.

I'm not here to recommend any oil brand, but I hope this helps out for people looking for information on Mobil 1.

 

looks good, thanks for posting...how many miles on the Sup-dog? stock?

 

127K, intake, full exhaust, front mount, boost controller. I've had it for 7 years, bought with 76K on the odo., and drive it pretty hard every time I take it out.

Do you have a kawi? I use to have a 636 for a while, great bikes.

 

yep. I have a Zx-10 that doesn't get ridden much I also have an FD RX-7...the old Supra/RX-7 rivalry gets intense with some people, but I see tham as apples and oranges....I seriously considered a Supra as a daily driver, but they're asking about $25k for cars with >100k miles...I know the engine is bulletproof, but no thanks

 

Did the lab give you TBN, TAN, nitration or oxidation values?
The oil sheared to a 20W grade @100C. Since they report no fuel (did they give you a flash point?), it's probably by design in order to get the energy seal of approval.
The Si is very low. What air filter do you use?
The Na is probably a anti-foam additive, but watch to see if it increases.
The wear metals are just OK for an AP2. Higher Fe seems to be the classic signature for M1 these days, but yours isn't very elevated.

Thanks for posting your UOA!

 

The report did have the nitration and oxidation numbers. I'll have to look those over and post them. I didn't request for the TAN or TBN number. I am dropping the oil when the oil life indicator shows around 20% left.

The car is all stock.

I am very interested to see how far things go with this car with me being on top of all the maintenance religiously because of the amount of miles I'm putting on it so quickly. Luckily the trips are long and the car is mostly in operating temperature range.

 

Can you elaborate on this? is iron generally higher for AP2s? What would be a good result for a 5,000 mile drain interval?

 

It's more informative to post the actual document from the testing facility. It's important to compare data from specific facilities/testing companies, it prevents posting errors from transcribing data, and it validates your source.

It's also important to remember that Used Oil analysis is an indicator of several things - but not necessarily a benchmark of oil quality or acutal wear (conditional statement).
I posted most of this information in the Mobil 1 EP post as well.

To develop a good benchmark of the quality of oil you need to start out with a baseline analysis - as in you send in a sample of unused oil for analysis - from a bottle of oil you will use in the engine (component) you intend on building a trend analysis on.
The benchmark analysis will directly tell you exactly what you're putting into your engine, and gives you actual data about what's in the oil to begin with. This will tell you a lot more about the oil when paired to a USED oil analysis, and a lot more than what a UOA will alone. The UOA is nothing more than a snapshot of the oil's state at the time of the sampling. The combination of the two samples (control sample and the UO sample) provide a trend window for the time the oil was in the engine.
The next step is to drive a predetermined number of miles and to sample the oil in its used state. This will tell you a number of things: how well the oil and all of its additives hold up over that period of use, how hard your engine and your driving are on the oil, what contaminants your filtration fails to remove (that includes oil and air filtration - Si and Al are major airborn contaminants), indications of wear in the engine, the useful life remaining in the oil, as well as several other ancillary conclusions that can be drawn from the condition of the oil (i.e. - the oil operating temperature may be hotter than it should, possibly indicating coolant thermostat issues - I had a note on an analysis done for an older RX-7 turbo I owned years ago telling me to check my thermostat due to the condition of the oil - and my thermostat was stuck in a half open position).

With all that being said you need to remember that an UOA will not give you an exact indication of wear due to the fact that any major wear is masked by the filter (and if you use a magnetic drain plug). Most filters filter down to around 5 microns, which is the particle size at which wear begins to be a notable factor. The PPM indications you get in the UOA basically tell you what was not filtered. While you can reasonably extrapolate wear data from this, it's not a truly accurate measure of wear.
UOA is most beneficial for fleet vehicles that run extended drain intervals. The UOA ultimately prevents unnecessary maintenance and allows fleet managers to more accurately schedule oil/fluid changes.
Another example is with gas turbine engines ("jet" engines - however, they're not all jets... turbo props, turbo-fans, gas turbine-electric powerplants etc.). GT engines operate for extended periods of time without oil changes. As such, periodic UOAs provide accurate measures of how long the engine can go, and prevent changing the oil unnecessarily. The synthetic oils used in GT engines are VERY expensive!

If you still have Mobil 1 from the case you used for that oil change - it would be highly informative to send off a baseline sample to compare your results to.

 

I just sent in a sample to blackstone. I did it once a long time ago (75k) and have put another 100k on the motor since. With religious DIY maintenance @ 6k intervals for motor oil, I'm interested in the variances when comparing to my original one.

After this, I'm switching to Amsoil just as an experiment. I'll run another UOA on that brand after I fugure out what interval I'm gonna use.

-Hockey

 

[QUOTE=Hockey,Aug 11 2008, 11:33 AM] I just sent in a sample to blackstone.