I'll be installing my alarm this weekend, but before I do, I just want to make sure I have the right "black boxes" designated

The keyless entry module is that dull silver box, about 6"x8", behind the driver's kick panel, correct? Or is that the ECM? It looks big enough to be an ECM, but want to make sure.

Polarity on the door locks is positive, correct? (I'll check this one myself, just in case, but it's nice to have a starting point)

Supposedly, there are two blank pins on one of the plugs of the keyless entry module for lock and unlock...can someone please tell me which plug and which pins?
Also, where is the best place to run wires between the cabin and engine bay? The one I know about for sure is just behind the battery (from audio installs), but I was thinking about one of the two holes in the firewall near the clutch, then running the wire along the top of the firewall (where the windshield wiper motor and some other wires run).

Where did you place the alarm module itself?

Thoughts, comments, suggestions, etc. appreciated...

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by MacGyver
[B]I'll be installing my alarm this weekend, but before I do, I just want to make sure I have the right "black boxes" designated

The keyless entry module is that dull silver box, about 6"x8", behind the driver's kick panel, correct?

 

Thanks modifry, that helps out a LOT!

Crap, negative polarity...means I need to run to the store before I start to pick up some relays.

I'm helping someone move at 9 tomorrow morning, but I hope to start the install by noon...with the days being what they are, that should give me decent natural light until about 7, then another 1 to 1.5 hours of non-nighttime playing. I have Sunday to play with, but I'd like to get it all done in one day.
You seem to have easier access to your vehicle at night than I do, so I can't run out and check...does the keyless box look like it's easily accessable from under the dash (I think I'm going to pull the drivers seat to give me some moving room since I'll be under the dash for quite a while)?

 

Are pins 11 and 12 inputs or outputs? I can see both options being valid...outputs since the keyless module receives the RF signal from the remote, and inputs since the keyless module sends the "lock/unlock" signal to the doors and the stock alarm wants to control that.
I'm assuming it's an input, but that module would definitely be a bad one to blow Does the Helm's manual give enough info to confirm this?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by MacGyver
[B]Are pins 11 and 12 inputs or outputs?

 

Update - don't even try to unclip the keyless module, unbolt it. Even out of the car it's hell to get it unclipped.

Yes, the keyless module has the functions built in, all you need are two pins for the connector, or if you're desparate, solder wires directly to the pins.

Pin 11 is unlock, 12 is lock, both activated with a ground. Bear in mind if you are testing, it probably won't work unless the doors are closed.

I'm outta here for the rest of the day.

 

Hey, MacGyver, I'm glad you're doing the install. Once I get my car put back together (or they give me a new one), I'll be in touch to do the install on mine. Call me if you need any help and I can be there in an hour's time. Good luck.

 

wow this is great news,does the unlock function unlock both doors?, if so would be easy to install a central lock unlock switch, something the car should really have

 

OK, here's what happened today...

The moving trip took longer than expected...not because the actual move took very long (3 hours?), but because we decided to have a couple of beers and pizza So, Bass and I didn't get started until about 5:00.

Well, it's 9:30, and I just walked in the door from putting everything back together. So what did we accomplish? We managed to string two power wires from the cabin to the engine bay. I know, I know, it doesn't sound like much, BUT, here's what I did...I ran the wire from the driver's kick panel, through the leftmost grommet behind the clutch, and into the engine bay. From there, it follows the other wire bundles through another grommet up into the area where the windshield wiper motors and control arms sit. Following along the bottom of the windshield, the wires come out another grommet near the battery top, under the battery, and we stopped with the wires hanging near the fuse box near the battery.

This also included a 1.5 hour stop at Home Depot to pick UP the power wire which I had forgotten to get (I have crimpers and connectors galore, but no wire). So, not TOO bad for 3 hours of work, and I now know how to take all of that stuff apart again.

So what does tomorrow hold in store? Well, I still need to run the alarm speaker wire through the firewall, but since I will most likely place the speaker right in that same area (where the brake lines are bundles up), the only issue I see is getting the little connector itself through the grommet (it may be a candidate for clipping the connector and re-splicing once it's through). After that, I think the rest of the wiring is snip, strip, attach, and cover for wires under the dash.

Oh, and taking the driver's seat out helps sooooooo much. It's difficult for even a small guy like me to slide his fat head under the steering wheel comfortably, but it's doable.

Hopefully I'll be able to post good results by tomorrow afternoon...besides, if I can't, my D.C. trip is probably screwed and work won't be too happy, either I'll also try to take pictures of all of the modules to help everyone out and post on my website (it's seriously due for an overhaul anyway).

Oh, and modifry...found the keyless module....it has a nice blue sticker on it that says something to the effect of "remote keyless entry module" Although the plug attached to the bottom was white. The Helm's manual doesn't, by any chance, give part numbers or sizes for the female connectors for pins 11 and 12, does it? It's not a big deal if not...I'll just have to make a second trip once I get everything installed and see what size it is by looking at the actual harness. Lucky for me there's a well-stocked electronic supply store in Boston...only downside is, it takes me about 1.5 hours roundtrip.

 

I'll ask in a separate thread, but put the question here for good measure (and maybe modifry or another member can answer)...

We've already decided that pins 11 and 12 of the remote keyless entry module are inputs for a lock/unlock signal. However, are they 12V or 5V signals? It would seem simple enough to keep all signals at 12V, but I'm so used to the computer domain where internal logic signals are 5V.