siadam

I thought since I was doing this, I'd take a few pictures to help out the process for others wanting to do the same thing.

Enjoy.


Reason:
The principle is simple. When going to an EMS (AEM for example) the oil pressure sensor for VTACK is not needed anymore, thus it can be removed.


Tools:
Wrenches / sockets (I'll check to see what size it is tonight (forgot)
Vice / pliers
Hacksaw / Dremel
Grinder (optional)
Shop towels
Wd-40 (optional)


Parts:
Visit your local parts or home store. I went to Home Depot.
The vtec sensor is a 10mm bolt with a thread pitch of 1.25
10mm 1.25 bolt
10mm flat washer
10mm 1.25 nut (I'll explain the nut later)
Total price for the bolt, nut and washers was $3.01 w/6% WV sales tax...lol.


Let's get started.


[Step 1]
-Realizing it's a problem.
As you can see from the picture below, it is an eye sore and can be in the way.



[Step 2]
-Unscrew.
Next, use your wrench or deep well socket to unscrew the sensor.



[Step 3]
-Removal.
Here you can see the sensor was removed. Be careful, there is a small rubber o-ring behind the sensor. It may stay in place, or come out w/the sensor, be careful and make sure it doesn't get torn. You can see a small amount of oil may drip out, this is where you stuff a shop towel to catch anything while you are working. Keep that area CLEAN.



[Step 4]
-Identify Parts
Next up are the parts for this exercise. In the foreground is the sensor and rubber o-ring.



[Step 5]
-Identify Parts, take 2.
From left to right is the 10mm 1.25 nut, 10mm flat washer, and 10mm 1.25 bolt. I bought the bolt in zinc plated (goldish finish) to match the existing bolts (optional).



[Step 6]
-Assembly
Below is the order it will be assembled.



[Step 7]
-Customizing.
You may need to cut the bolt down depending on it's length. As you can see from the earlier pictures the pressure sensor isn't very long. Hold the sensor up to the bolt, measure how long you need to cut off and do so. This is where I used the nut. Thread the nut all the way to the end, it will act as a die (tap / die) for the bolt and fix the threads after you cut it and thread it back off. (Old trick my Dad taught me years back). I put the head of the bolt in my vice and used my hacksaw, I didn't have anymore cutting discs on my dremel. I sprayed some wd-40 on the bolt after I cut it to help the nut slide off easy. Test the bolt to make sure it threads into the hole. Be careful here, you DO NOT want to cross thread it. If it doesn't go, LIGHTLY grind the thread until it threads in. It took 2 iterations until mine went perfect.



[Step 8]
-Reassembly.
Remove your shop towel, wipe up any oil and place the o-ring into the hole. It has a slight groove already cut into it, and should stay.


[Step 9]
-Rescrew.
Clean the head of the bolt off to make sure NO metal shavings enter the head. Then carefully thread your bolt/washer into the hole and allow the washer to seat up agaisnt the o-ring to make a good seal.


[Step 10]
-Your Done!!
Enjoy your spoils.



All comments and suggestions are welcome. Please try to keep the bashing to a minimum thanks.

neeman77

sweet I will be doing this!

JoeyBalls

Nice dude, thanks

Irishflame27

very nice job Adam

benlee02

Do you know if this is the same for the hondata too?

siadam

Good question, I do not know. I would "assume" but don't take my answer as truth.

Tech7427

pretty sure you can disable it in hondata..

and adam, i see you got the elbow welded on..

siadam

Yes sir, picked it up yesterday.

Suzuka_Joe

Can I just pull mine out like this or do u have to disable it in aem (is it in the tune?)
Mine is plugged in and mase or tony didn't say anything about it

siadam

I guess you could test it by disconnecting the plug and going out and seeing if it hits vtec.

Or to be safe, contact either one of them and ask.