3 pits found on CV Joint housing / Pics of CV Joint removal
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Houston
I couldn't take the rear end shakes/thumping anymore. They were first most apparent at the track when accelerating through a curve...but now I get thumping when accelerating in a straight line. More specifically, I feel a thumping vibration from the rear driver's side.
Thanks all whom diagnosed the situation, and pinned it down to the inner driver side cv joint housing (right next to the diff.). RT gave me instructions on how to remove the cv joint...thanks RT!
I found 3 pits on the cv joint walls...
- Pit 2
- Pit 3
Most dealerships won't help you with this...1st of all because nothing is broken. You can take a dealership tech. for a ride and demonstrate, but that might not do you any good (just like in my case). The dealership wouldn't beleive me that the cv joint housing was causing the problem...so I decided to rip the part out and show it to them.
I took pictures of the removal. 1st of all, the cv joint housing removal requires some particular tools...I wouldn't try this if you don't have the hardware. If you don't have jackstands...don't risk it!
1. The bolts/nuts that hold the cv and diff. together are tight...try using a breaker bar.
2. Because there is a pin on the side of the cv that faces the diff., you need to push the half shaft away from the cv joint to gain clearaince to remove the cv joint housing. To free the half shaft...you have to pop the lower ball joint with a ball joint lifter/separator to get it off of the A-arm, and swing the rotor out. I bought a Tool Aid 61900 Ball Joint Lifter, but the mouth on the 61900 was too narrow for the ball joint on the s2000. I had to use an abrasive disk to widen the mouth.
3. Remove the clip on the cv boot. The boot and cv joint is filled with grease and you will need a ton of paper towels to clean it all out. Swing out the rotor to pull back the half shaft so you get enough clearance to remove the cv joint housing. There are 3 bearings in the cv joint, make sure you don't loose those. You will need some cv joint grease when you put everything back together ($4.00 @ Oreilly).
I am going to show the pits to my dealership and try to get the housing replaced under warranty. Wish me luck!
Thanks all whom diagnosed the situation, and pinned it down to the inner driver side cv joint housing (right next to the diff.). RT gave me instructions on how to remove the cv joint...thanks RT!
I found 3 pits on the cv joint walls...
- Pit 2
- Pit 3
Most dealerships won't help you with this...1st of all because nothing is broken. You can take a dealership tech. for a ride and demonstrate, but that might not do you any good (just like in my case). The dealership wouldn't beleive me that the cv joint housing was causing the problem...so I decided to rip the part out and show it to them.
I took pictures of the removal. 1st of all, the cv joint housing removal requires some particular tools...I wouldn't try this if you don't have the hardware. If you don't have jackstands...don't risk it!
1. The bolts/nuts that hold the cv and diff. together are tight...try using a breaker bar.
2. Because there is a pin on the side of the cv that faces the diff., you need to push the half shaft away from the cv joint to gain clearaince to remove the cv joint housing. To free the half shaft...you have to pop the lower ball joint with a ball joint lifter/separator to get it off of the A-arm, and swing the rotor out. I bought a Tool Aid 61900 Ball Joint Lifter, but the mouth on the 61900 was too narrow for the ball joint on the s2000. I had to use an abrasive disk to widen the mouth.
3. Remove the clip on the cv boot. The boot and cv joint is filled with grease and you will need a ton of paper towels to clean it all out. Swing out the rotor to pull back the half shaft so you get enough clearance to remove the cv joint housing. There are 3 bearings in the cv joint, make sure you don't loose those. You will need some cv joint grease when you put everything back together ($4.00 @ Oreilly).
I am going to show the pits to my dealership and try to get the housing replaced under warranty. Wish me luck!
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Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Houston
Nice work Tim. Good work on the diagnosis.
If you ever opened a mechanics shop, I bet everyone would pay...
Mark
If you ever opened a mechanics shop, I bet everyone would pay...
Originally posted by Phantom
Here's the rifle (Remington 700 Police Light Tactical Rifle .308):
Scope (Leupold 4.5-14x50mm Long Range Tactical):
Here's the rifle (Remington 700 Police Light Tactical Rifle .308):
Scope (Leupold 4.5-14x50mm Long Range Tactical):
Mark
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From: HouStook TX
Tim,
You're about as wild as the Crocodile Hunter when it comes to diagnosing your car problems. Geez. You definately know how to separate the men from the boys with this stuff.
Excellent work and good luck with the dealership consultation.
Joe
You're about as wild as the Crocodile Hunter when it comes to diagnosing your car problems. Geez. You definately know how to separate the men from the boys with this stuff.
Excellent work and good luck with the dealership consultation.
Joe
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Estes Park
This problem can be corrected to a large degree by replacing the stock junk grease with the correct synthetic cv grease. In order to have any benefit, however, it must be done before the wear starts, such as when new. The correct grease does not cost $4, however, but around $ 70. This is classic galling from the rollers, seen most often with front cv joints, particularly those in cars that are raced. Now that you know the problem exists, the question is do you wait to warranty or bite the bullet and do your own fix. Also make sure they replace the cv joint along with the hub, because the rollers (bearings) are shot too.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Houston
chipperman,
The dealership just ordered me a whole axel assebly, so the bearings are going to be replaced also.
I will look into the synthetic cv grease...thanks for bringing that to my attention.
The dealership just ordered me a whole axel assebly, so the bearings are going to be replaced also.
I will look into the synthetic cv grease...thanks for bringing that to my attention.
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From: Toronto
Originally posted by chipperman
This problem can be corrected to a large degree by replacing the stock junk grease with the correct synthetic cv grease. In order to have any benefit, however, it must be done before the wear starts, such as when new. The correct grease does not cost $4, however, but around $ 70. This is classic galling from the rollers, seen most often with front cv joints, particularly those in cars that are raced. Now that you know the problem exists, the question is do you wait to warranty or bite the bullet and do your own fix. Also make sure they replace the cv joint along with the hub, because the rollers (bearings) are shot too.
This problem can be corrected to a large degree by replacing the stock junk grease with the correct synthetic cv grease. In order to have any benefit, however, it must be done before the wear starts, such as when new. The correct grease does not cost $4, however, but around $ 70. This is classic galling from the rollers, seen most often with front cv joints, particularly those in cars that are raced. Now that you know the problem exists, the question is do you wait to warranty or bite the bullet and do your own fix. Also make sure they replace the cv joint along with the hub, because the rollers (bearings) are shot too.