San Francisco, Childhood dream fulfilled - Year 2000 S2000
#81
I don't want to freak you out and I'm just sharing my experience here, but that was me roughly 3 weeks ago. And I only drive it on the weekends. Also, for the past 2 weekends, I've been going snowboarding.
So realistically for the last 3 weeks, I've driven my car less than 5 days and have used maybe 1/3 of my gas. My mechanic (Joey) told me it won't be long until I can't even engage the gears. I don't know how long your car will remain shiftable if it's already becoming a workout for you.
So realistically for the last 3 weeks, I've driven my car less than 5 days and have used maybe 1/3 of my gas. My mechanic (Joey) told me it won't be long until I can't even engage the gears. I don't know how long your car will remain shiftable if it's already becoming a workout for you.
I ordered a new master lol. I'm basically doing a full maintenance shakedown this spring/summer and replacing a ton of stuff....might as well get this out of the way. If the car has made it this far on the stock piece I might as well expect the replacement to last even longer with regular fluid bleeds.
I'll replace it while I'm doing my cruise control delete (useless in CT) and putting a catch can there....seems to be the only logical place to place one on an s2000 without really making provisions for placement elsewhere. I got the RHD blockoff plate for my cluster panel from Japan so with the button removed I'll have it filled in with an OEM blank. Got the DC5R backing for my steering wheel which doesn't have the opening for the cruise buttons. Even bought a bunch of different sized Honda seals to find one that will fit where the cruise cable came through the firewall for the pedal assembly. Trying to do the most OEM delete possible aside from using a wiring harness from a different car without it (**** that lol).
#83
@Say Chi Sin Lo those Headlights look great man! nice write up
pretty sure i posted @happysnapper car
pretty sure i posted @happysnapper car
Last edited by Deckoz; 01-09-2019 at 12:17 PM.
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dedonderosa (01-14-2019)
#84
Thread Starter
Ugh... I have a parasitic draw on the car. And I suspect it to be the Viper alarm.
As some of you know, immediately after purchasing the car, my battery died.
Got a new one, and I recently left for vacation and was gone for 2weeks. Came back to the car and the new battery is dead, again.
Question, now the shop obviously want to sell me a new alarm. But my original idea was to remove the alarm entirely. But this being a S2000 and it's a hot commodity among car thieves, and this car is parked outside. I'm thinking about replacing it with a functioning alarm that's NOT a parasitic draw.
What do you guys think? Any of you here runs the car without an alarm? Thanks!
As some of you know, immediately after purchasing the car, my battery died.
Got a new one, and I recently left for vacation and was gone for 2weeks. Came back to the car and the new battery is dead, again.
Question, now the shop obviously want to sell me a new alarm. But my original idea was to remove the alarm entirely. But this being a S2000 and it's a hot commodity among car thieves, and this car is parked outside. I'm thinking about replacing it with a functioning alarm that's NOT a parasitic draw.
What do you guys think? Any of you here runs the car without an alarm? Thanks!
#85
If I'm being 100% honest. The only way your truely going to prevent driven theft is alternative disablements outside of ignition.
As a parked car the s2k vulnerable for
- hardtop
- seats
- cluster
hotwiring in this car takes to long due to the space and is a tow steal target
keep it in a garage and install GPS for while you're out and about. An alarm isnt going to do much unless its a geofence. to notify you
As a parked car the s2k vulnerable for
- hardtop
- seats
- cluster
hotwiring in this car takes to long due to the space and is a tow steal target
keep it in a garage and install GPS for while you're out and about. An alarm isnt going to do much unless its a geofence. to notify you
#86
Thread Starter
If I'm being 100% honest. The only way your truely going to prevent driven theft is alternative disablements outside of ignition.
As a parked car the s2k vulnerable for
- hardtop
- seats
- cluster
hotwiring in this car takes to long due to the space and is a tow steal target
keep it in a garage and install GPS for while you're out and about. An alarm isnt going to do much unless its a geofence. to notify you
As a parked car the s2k vulnerable for
- hardtop
- seats
- cluster
hotwiring in this car takes to long due to the space and is a tow steal target
keep it in a garage and install GPS for while you're out and about. An alarm isnt going to do much unless its a geofence. to notify you
I don't have alarms on my other cars for the reasons you stated.
#88
This question has actually been asked quite a few times....The answer is a unanimous no. BUT! Someone was nice enough to do a quick photoshop; it looks awful. The positioning is off, but any way you cut it, it's going to look like crap. If anything the lip will cover more of the fake vent than what's pictured here:
Abort mission!
Last edited by Kyle; 02-06-2019 at 12:23 AM.
#89
Thread Starter
Straight bolt-on? Nope. Anything will fit with enough massaging, though. Even then it will look awful; the way the integrated canard thing cuts across the face of the bumper will essentially go right across your fake ducts....
This question has actually been asked quite a few times....The answer is a unanimous no. BUT! Someone was nice enough to do a quick photoshop; it looks awful. The positioning is off, but any way you cut it, it's going to look like crap. If anything the lip will cover more of the fake vent than what's pictured here:
Abort mission!
This question has actually been asked quite a few times....The answer is a unanimous no. BUT! Someone was nice enough to do a quick photoshop; it looks awful. The positioning is off, but any way you cut it, it's going to look like crap. If anything the lip will cover more of the fake vent than what's pictured here:
Abort mission!
#90
Thread Starter
Spark plug tube seal
Dear all,
My car registered a misfire in cylinder #4 and it threw up a CEL.
I checked the spark plugs and coil pack, and I found oil. So therefore, I will have to replace the seals:
My question is, the spark plugs themselves are new at the time of purchase as claimed by the previous owner. Even with my post-purchase driving, they should be barely 1,000miles old. Therefore, should I replace the spark plugs while I'm at it?
Thank you!
My car registered a misfire in cylinder #4 and it threw up a CEL.
I checked the spark plugs and coil pack, and I found oil. So therefore, I will have to replace the seals:
My question is, the spark plugs themselves are new at the time of purchase as claimed by the previous owner. Even with my post-purchase driving, they should be barely 1,000miles old. Therefore, should I replace the spark plugs while I'm at it?
Thank you!