Simplegreenvr6

Hello, all.

My 2002 AP1 has had a clutch fluid leak for a few months now. I did a complete flush and bleed and replaced with fresh fluid and it worked fine for a few months. Then after a trip to the OBX and back it went low again. I did the Billman technique and siphoned out of the reservoir and added fresh fluid until it was clear again. It lasted another month or so and yesterday the clutch went completely soft in the matter of minutes. I added fluid again and it's marginally better, however I want to get this problem fixed once in for all since I've prolonged it enough.

Who has experience doing this maintenance and can offer assistance?

These are the parts I'm ordering:
FOR THE SLAVE
New clutch slave cylinder (#46930-S2A-003)
2 Clutch oil bolt washers (also described as Banjo bolt washers) (#46472-568-000)
1 Clutch oil bolt (also known as a Banjo bolt) (#46963-SD4-020)
1 Clutch hose (#46961-S2A-505)

FOR THE MASTER:
46920-S2A-003 - CMC Master

What else do I need for the CMC replacement in terms of bolts/gaskets/hoses?

Thanks, guys!

PaulaDanielleSchultz

I'm doing mine soon too, but as a small note, I ordered the stainless braided clutch hose from Science of Speed instead of the OEM unit. http://www.scienceofspeed.com/produc...ch_slave_hose/

Have you just tried bleeding your clutch really well too? That helps a lot.

Simplegreenvr6

Yes I did a full bleed a few months ago and it lasted about 3-4 months before it went dead after a 500mi round trip.

aeonracer

It's not a terribly difficult job, just time consuming. The master cylinder is a pain to get to without removing the driver seat if you're a normally proportioned human being, and even then you need some contortionist skills to get to the bolts that hold it in place. The rest is relatively easy, just remove and replace operations. Be careful when you're moving the dust cover (its easy to damage) and don't forget to regrease the slave cylinder ball joint.

I'd gladly help, but I'm in NOVA so if you want to drive up that far...

arbez

Hello,

In the above image, you need parts #8(clutch master cylinder) - #10(clutch slave cylinder) - 2 of #5(sealing washers) & #12(pressure hose) if needed. No need to replace the #13(bolt), unless yours is damaged.

You must replace the master & slave cylinders at the same time. Replacing the leaking cylinder & not the other other one will result in quick failure of the non replaced cylinder.

The job itself is relatively easy. A little tight under the dash & bleeding & adjusting the clutch can be a little tricky. Take your time & do it right.

PM me if you have any questions - GG - arbez

Olegator

get a line wrench

arbez

10MM

Also some brake cleaner. Blow the cleaner through the metal line, then with compressed air. If no compressed air, make sure it dries completely.

aeonracer

That's like saying you need to replace your differential when you're having transmission problems. I.E. completely untrue. If your leak is at the master cylinder, replace the master cylinder only, if its at the slave, replace the slave. The systems are completely independent, and replacing one will not accelerate the wear of the other (though agreed that if your CMC is leaking, your slave probably isn't far behind simply due to age / heat).

OP can you check around your footwell inside your cabin where the CMC is? Is there fluid / moisture there? If so, you're having the "common" problem of the CMC seal wearing out and leaking fluid inside your car, which is why you're constantly refilling your clutch fluid.

arbez

I have done hundreds of these on all kinds of Honda & Acura automobiles over the last 24 years. We learned early on that replacing the leaking cylinder & not the other resulted in a almost 100% come back rate within 30 days. Comebacks cost us in a lot of different ways. Tow's, free parts and/or labor, but mostly by reputation. Customers have a hard time understanding that they have the exact same condition that we just fixed, or worse & they have to pay to have repaired again. Usually the clutch hydraulics just fail suddenly & completely, resulting in the vehicle being stranded. We stress that both parts should be replaced simultaneously, explaining that our experience shows not doing so may result in a similar complaint within a very short period of time.

After goodwilling tow's, labor & sometimes parts(doing the entire job for free), we strongly recommend both parts be replaced at the same time. Most people opt for the second cylinder, with the overlapping labor it saves them money in the long run. The others who opt out usually have a good attitude as the tow truck unloads their car. They already know what is wrong & that it is going to cost them, again. They tell me, with a smile, that they should of listened & not cheaped out. I try not to say it, but I'm thinking it... "I told you so".

Aeon, how you run your business is up to you. Our experience shows that contaminated fluid & the increased pressure from the new part, in already worn hydraulic components lead to a high failure rate. I started working for Acura in 1989, after getting out of the military. I have been working on mostly Honda & Acura ever since. I have worked at several dealers & independent shops. Now, working for myself, I have to make sure that I do what is right for me. I will work on anything, but I'm not afraid to say "I don't know" & send them somewhere else. Some places that I have worked try to fix everything. That does nothing but get you into trouble. I am good at what I do & have been doing it for a long time. I fix it right, the first time, every time. If the customer want's something different, that is usually the last time I work on their vehicle. I have enough customers & more work than I could ever hope to get done, ever. That's the great thing about working for yourself, the boss is an ass, but what choice do I have? Fixed right, the first time, every time. This is how I run my business. arbez

aeonracer

I replaced my CMC 10k+ miles ago, and inspected my slave, didn't notice any problems so I didn't replace it and have had zero problems since. All I'm saying is though it may be a good idea to replace the part to save yourself the headache later, you don't HAVE to replace it. Again, it would be like saying "one of my brake lines is leaking, may as well replace them all including the brake master cylinder", it just doesn't really make sense unless you inspect the lines and notice a small leak elsewhere.

You sound like a great guy to take the car to, and have the right approach. I'm not a mechanic by trade, nor do I own my own shop, I just work out of my garage and do all my own wrenching on my own car, as well as friend's vehicles. If it makes sense to replace something, I'll do it or make a recommendation to a friend to do it. If it doesn't, I won't.

Not trying to start anything, just saying that all repairs are situational, and applying a unilateral replacement approach usually isn't the best approach.