Winter Storage Tips
11-09-2012, 04:04 PM
#12
I may be wrong, but I seem to remember that as fact...
11-09-2012, 04:08 PM
#13
I may be wrong, but I seem to remember that as fact...
[/quote]
http://www.dmv.ny.gov/cpl8faqs.htm
"If I remove a vehicle from the road, can I keep my personalized plates?
Yes. You can store your personalized plates at a DMV office. Most offices can store your personalized plates. The DMV office gives you a receipt (form FS-6T) when you surrender your personalized plates. Verify the information listed on the receipt, and make sure that the receipt displays the words, "Stored at Local Office". Keep the receipt.
Note: The policy to store vehicle plates is different in each office. Ask your local DMV office about the storage policy in that office.
You can register the vehicle again or use your stored personalized plates to register another vehicle. Go to the office that has your vehicle plates. Make sure that you bring the receipt (form FS-6T) and the other documents required to register your vehicle."
/>
Duhhh, It's in reverse because he left the brakes off. 
11-11-2012, 05:22 AM
#16
Here you go guys..... The information presented in this document has been gleaned from several posts on the web site www.s2ki.com.
1. Change the oil and filter, unless you are still within the “break-in” period (pre-3,750 or 7,500 miles). Let the engine run for a while.
2. Fill the gas tank to the top. You want the smallest air gap in the tank because temperature changes will cause condensation in there. The consensus seems to be that fuel stabilizers are NOT necessary.
3. Wash and detail the car including treating the inside vinyl and leather. Drive the car to remove any standing water that gets trapped in the nooks and crannies and to remove moisture in the exhaust and engine.
4. Run the air conditioner for about 10-15 minutes on the last drive to ensure all the moving parts get the lubricant circulated so the seals don’t dry out.
5. Clean out the interior really well, leaving nothing behind. Check all small compartments, ashtray, etc. Mice getting into the car can eat wires, vinyl, leather, carpet, etc.
6. Apply a silicone spray lubricant to door and trunk seals to minimize sticking.
7. Stuff a rag into the airbox intake to keep mice out.
8. Stuff a rag into the end of the tail pipes to keep mice out.
9. For those who are paranoid about mice, place several mothballs around the interior, placing them on small paper plates so they are not in contact with the car. Place several mouse traps around the car, bait them with peanut butter.
10. Spray lightly a bit of Febreeze (fabric deodorizer) on both floor mats.
11. Make sure the window wash fluid is the anti-freeze kind and not straight water.
12. Check the anti-freeze and adjust if needed.
13. Top off any other fluids under the hood.
14. Keep the CV joints in good shape by keeping the CV boots in good shape. When stored, the boots do not go through a regular routine of being flexed and this may cause them to develop a sort of “memory” such that when you drive it in spring, it may aggravate the start of cracking. You might want to consider going under there and liberally using some “rubber safe” silicone spray and get those (there are 4 on the rear half shafts) babies dripping wet with silicone.
15. Depending on how long you plan to store the car (more than a couple of months), you might also look into an “oil fog spray”. They sell these in auto supply stores. It is an oil mist that comes in a spray can, specially marketed for this application. Just before you put the car to bed, after your last drive, you take off the intake hose to expose the throttle body. You then spray this mist into the throttle body till the car begins to run a bit rough. Stop the spray and immediately shut the car off, replace the intake hose. This will keep a coat of oil film on all the internal engine parts so that the first start of next season will be less metal-to-metal wear.
16. Open up the battery cells and fill up with distilled water, NOT tap water. Tap water contains impurities that can shorten the life of batteries.
17. Pump the tires to about 45PSI to avoid flat-spotting. Place a piece of scrap carpet or foam insulation under each tire while parked.
18. Support the wiper blade arms with a rag to help maintain the rubber.
19. Put the transmission in reverse.
20. Roll the car ¼ to ½ turn 3 to 4 times per winter to ensure the rotors don’t stick to the pads. Work the pedals.
21. Keep windows down half way to keep condensation and moisture from collecting in the car. Do NOT set the ventilation selector to “re-circulate”. Leaving it selected to “vent/floor” will allow for air to expand and contract in and out of the car.
22. Keep the parking brake off to avoid having the pads rust to the rotors.
23. Sweep the garage floor and lay down a plastic tarp or park the car on linoleum. Concrete can get damp in the winter and if the car sits on linoleum or a tarp it will help to keep most of the moisture away from the car so the underbody does not collect condensation.
24. Disconnect the battery. Some recommend removal of the battery and taking it into the warmth of the heated house. Removing it will completely prevent electrolysis between the thousands of spots in your electrical system where it could occur. If you remove it, do not store it on concrete. Make sure you have the stereo code before unhooking the battery! Buy a “battery tender” which differs from a “trickle charger” in that it knows (has a chip in it) when the battery is fully charged and thus turns itself off. Two sources are: (http://www.griotsgar....jsp? &SKU=77655 ) (http://canadianbiker.com/tender.html )
25. Put a breathable car cover on.
26. DO NOT start the car unless you are going to drive it. When the car sits, all the oil drains into the oil pan. Starting the car is the hardest thing on the engine. Doing it once in the spring is better than several times throughout the winter.
27. You may want to call your insurance agent to suspend some of your insurance while the car sits in the garage. Rumor has it, if we have a nice day in the middle of winter and you want to take it for a drive you can call your agent and get coverage restored for the day. Call your agent to make sure this is an option with your policy first!
28. In the spring, start it up and let it idle it's almost warmed up before driving it anywhere and then drive it easy for a couple of miles so your transmission, differential & CV joints can get a good lube "workout".
29. Remove the CD from the CD player. If you have a CD changer, remove the CD magazine.
1. Change the oil and filter, unless you are still within the “break-in” period (pre-3,750 or 7,500 miles). Let the engine run for a while.
2. Fill the gas tank to the top. You want the smallest air gap in the tank because temperature changes will cause condensation in there. The consensus seems to be that fuel stabilizers are NOT necessary.
3. Wash and detail the car including treating the inside vinyl and leather. Drive the car to remove any standing water that gets trapped in the nooks and crannies and to remove moisture in the exhaust and engine.
4. Run the air conditioner for about 10-15 minutes on the last drive to ensure all the moving parts get the lubricant circulated so the seals don’t dry out.
5. Clean out the interior really well, leaving nothing behind. Check all small compartments, ashtray, etc. Mice getting into the car can eat wires, vinyl, leather, carpet, etc.
6. Apply a silicone spray lubricant to door and trunk seals to minimize sticking.
7. Stuff a rag into the airbox intake to keep mice out.
8. Stuff a rag into the end of the tail pipes to keep mice out.
9. For those who are paranoid about mice, place several mothballs around the interior, placing them on small paper plates so they are not in contact with the car. Place several mouse traps around the car, bait them with peanut butter.
10. Spray lightly a bit of Febreeze (fabric deodorizer) on both floor mats.
11. Make sure the window wash fluid is the anti-freeze kind and not straight water.
12. Check the anti-freeze and adjust if needed.
13. Top off any other fluids under the hood.
14. Keep the CV joints in good shape by keeping the CV boots in good shape. When stored, the boots do not go through a regular routine of being flexed and this may cause them to develop a sort of “memory” such that when you drive it in spring, it may aggravate the start of cracking. You might want to consider going under there and liberally using some “rubber safe” silicone spray and get those (there are 4 on the rear half shafts) babies dripping wet with silicone.
15. Depending on how long you plan to store the car (more than a couple of months), you might also look into an “oil fog spray”. They sell these in auto supply stores. It is an oil mist that comes in a spray can, specially marketed for this application. Just before you put the car to bed, after your last drive, you take off the intake hose to expose the throttle body. You then spray this mist into the throttle body till the car begins to run a bit rough. Stop the spray and immediately shut the car off, replace the intake hose. This will keep a coat of oil film on all the internal engine parts so that the first start of next season will be less metal-to-metal wear.
16. Open up the battery cells and fill up with distilled water, NOT tap water. Tap water contains impurities that can shorten the life of batteries.
17. Pump the tires to about 45PSI to avoid flat-spotting. Place a piece of scrap carpet or foam insulation under each tire while parked.
18. Support the wiper blade arms with a rag to help maintain the rubber.
19. Put the transmission in reverse.
20. Roll the car ¼ to ½ turn 3 to 4 times per winter to ensure the rotors don’t stick to the pads. Work the pedals.
21. Keep windows down half way to keep condensation and moisture from collecting in the car. Do NOT set the ventilation selector to “re-circulate”. Leaving it selected to “vent/floor” will allow for air to expand and contract in and out of the car.
22. Keep the parking brake off to avoid having the pads rust to the rotors.
23. Sweep the garage floor and lay down a plastic tarp or park the car on linoleum. Concrete can get damp in the winter and if the car sits on linoleum or a tarp it will help to keep most of the moisture away from the car so the underbody does not collect condensation.
24. Disconnect the battery. Some recommend removal of the battery and taking it into the warmth of the heated house. Removing it will completely prevent electrolysis between the thousands of spots in your electrical system where it could occur. If you remove it, do not store it on concrete. Make sure you have the stereo code before unhooking the battery! Buy a “battery tender” which differs from a “trickle charger” in that it knows (has a chip in it) when the battery is fully charged and thus turns itself off. Two sources are: (http://www.griotsgar....jsp? &SKU=77655 ) (http://canadianbiker.com/tender.html )
25. Put a breathable car cover on.
26. DO NOT start the car unless you are going to drive it. When the car sits, all the oil drains into the oil pan. Starting the car is the hardest thing on the engine. Doing it once in the spring is better than several times throughout the winter.
27. You may want to call your insurance agent to suspend some of your insurance while the car sits in the garage. Rumor has it, if we have a nice day in the middle of winter and you want to take it for a drive you can call your agent and get coverage restored for the day. Call your agent to make sure this is an option with your policy first!
28. In the spring, start it up and let it idle it's almost warmed up before driving it anywhere and then drive it easy for a couple of miles so your transmission, differential & CV joints can get a good lube "workout".
29. Remove the CD from the CD player. If you have a CD changer, remove the CD magazine.
The following users liked this post:
Little Bob (01-03-2018)
11-13-2012, 06:30 AM
#18
Exactly what i used for the winter and it worked out fine. Just for precaution, i used foam insulation under my tires to avoid flat spots, make sure you detail the car and put a nice sealant on before you store it to protect the paint, also shinetsu grease on your rubber seals to keep it nice and protected thru the weather as well. After storing it for couple of winters though, i decided its not worth the trouble to store the car since there are days where you want to drive the shit out of your car on a awkwardly warm winter days.
But if you do store it, don't start it until you want to take it out of storage for good.
But if you do store it, don't start it until you want to take it out of storage for good.
11-13-2012, 07:45 AM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Does anyone know in the state of NY, if I remove my insurance off the car, do I have to turn the plates into the DMV even though I plan to put the insurance back on in March. There is no lien or loan on the car. I spoke with Geico about garage insurance and the rep said they don't offer that, meanwhile last year another rep was offering me to put garage insurance so idk what's the deal with that.
11-13-2012, 11:11 AM
#20
Originally Posted by Beeb05sti' timestamp='1352488565' post='22141159
Does anyone know in the state of NY, if I remove my insurance off the car, do I have to turn the plates into the DMV even though I plan to put the insurance back on in March. There is no lien or loan on the car. I spoke with Geico about garage insurance and the rep said they don't offer that, meanwhile last year another rep was offering me to put garage insurance so idk what's the deal with that.
Everything was so much easier when the car was registered in Kentucky.