jsenclosure

800, figuring ~400 each

jsenclosure

haven't decided on 4 or 6point yet. I was thinking takata but someone recently told me Scroth was the only DOT harnesses you could get. I haven't done much research yet

jsenclosure

2/1/2011

Started the Cage last night.










Here is a shot with the bumper cover on and the exhaust




And a couple randoms...

Bugsy

Ahh, to be young again!
Nice streetfighters too.
Very intrested so please take pics!
You're breaking cool ground doing what you plan on that bar.

jsenclosure

2/6/2011
Yesterday we did some more work on the roll cage. We got the main rear hoop finished up, as well as the seatbelt harness mounting bar that attaches to it. I’m extremely happy with the way it’s come out so far. Everything has been dead on, and has matched up to the mugen trim piece 100%. I’d say where it sits right now we are about 30% done with the roll cage. Here are the pics with the step by step process.

First we made the rear hoop, two 90degree bends on the same plane. Pretty simple. We made this to 22.5” height, the mounting base plates are ¼” so that’ll bring it to 22.75” height total. Top goes up and down no problem.




Dropped the seat in to see how it sat. Very pleased with the total height of it.


Next I took the rear support and cut out just over 3” from each end of it. Doing so I lost 1 bolt hole on each side. I also removed the stock seatbelt mounting brackets since I wont be using them. The reason for cutting this piece to so the 3”x 4” mounting plates for the rear hoop can be centered on the pipe.






Then we welded on the 3x4” base plates for the main hoop.


Tested the fit for clearance and everything fit perfectly


Next we measured up the piece we would need for the seatbelt harness bar. Put a bend in each end to get the bar the sit back 4” and match the mugen trim as it should, then we tacked it in place and gave it a test fit to mark up the holes for the harness mounts.




Then we put it in place with the cover to mark the holes.




With the holes marked, we broke the tack and removed the harness bar. We then hit the marked holes with a center punch, put the bar on the mill and drilled the 1” holes. Then we tig welded the bar back in place.




Then we cut some 1” stock to 2.5” lengths. The tube is 1.75” so 2.5” length would allow the slug to sit about ¾” above the bar, which was perfect for the trim piece. After cutting 4 slugs we put them in the mill (because we didn’t have an attachment for the lathe) centered and drilled them out and used a tap to thread them for a 7/16” harness eye bolt. We then welded these into place.






And put in place




And as it sits now

Addictuned S2K

Are you going to keep the deck in it that I put in?

jsenclosure

yeah, it's a really good deck. Imprint compatable is the key. I have an alpine w505 in my truck with imprint and it is night and day for sound quality. So the only thing i'm going to do is add the imprint and possibly swap out the speakers with some jl's

Addictuned S2K

I think I blew the passenger side one. The 2000-2002? s2000 stereo sucks because everything comes from 2 speakers. You can polly see the tweeters by the endges of the seats. Those blew when I was driving the car home from New Jersey the day I bought it. If you look at the interior of like a 2003-2009 S2000, there are factory tweeters on the door panels and also speakers on the roll bar.

jsenclosure

door speaker wasn't blown just had a loose capacitor and the wire pulled, i resoldered it. I disconnected the tweeters in the rear panels. For sound quality reasons you do not want tweeters behind you, you only want highs in front of you. Sold the amp, sub, box and wired up the speakers to the deck, sound quality is good now but i've just never been a fan of polk. I've been doing car audio for a while, my truck has about 5 grand in parts alone dropped into it, all the work done by me. This car i'm just going to keep it simple. Check out my work:
JSEnclosures.com

Mark355

Wow this is great! Can't wait to see how it turns out!