Jake's Track Car Build
11-18-2016, 03:54 PM
#31
Random thoughts for track setup - many of which you already know about and have a solution..
Ground control
- sounds like you will pursue some Ohlins which is a good choice. You need a quality sway bar also, the gold standard for the s2000 is a Gendron and I think I know where you can get one locally.
- you will probably want a camber kit for the front some you can get decent camber (-3) up front.
- and you will need some track tires which I can help you get started with, I have both 16 and 17 inch tyres. If you decide to buy wheels get 17x9 +45.
Preventive Maintenance -
- you will probably want to upgrade your wheel studs to ARP long studs and in the process you may as well replace the wheel bearings. I have a HUB tamer which makes it a snap.
- Brake ducts from front disks, they have helped my brakes woes ever since you put them on my car back in 2014. Not one brake related problem since !!. The ones I got were from WASP, pricey but worked well. I might be able to help you piece together the bumper ducts if you want to save $$$ and you can use the dust cover to mount the piece for the rotor. Ducts also help save the bearing life.
- OEM brakes are very good, just need better pads and high temp fluid. I think I have some Hawk pads. I would keep and extra set of front rotors around, they due crack unexpectantly.
- you already have all the polly bushing and you will swap the motor mounts / diff mounts as well.
Engine / drive train -
- I know you want to run a stock N/A motor, one good addition is an oil cooler, easy to install and certainly helps with cooling.
- you are getting an after market Radiator which also help. I have a new Mismoto in the box if thats what you are looking for but I believe you wanted a duel pass.
- you may want to pop the valve cover and inspect valve train, check clearances. I am not sure how you will know if the valve clips have been changed.
- alls the OEM drive train works well. When you get a few extra bucks you will want to get yourself a 4.77 ring/pinion which is the best combo for running N/A (right Paul Simpson)
I am sure there are other thoughts from the other track rats (Paul, Shiv, Aashish, Billman, Chef, Jeff).
Ground control
- sounds like you will pursue some Ohlins which is a good choice. You need a quality sway bar also, the gold standard for the s2000 is a Gendron and I think I know where you can get one locally.
- you will probably want a camber kit for the front some you can get decent camber (-3) up front.
- and you will need some track tires which I can help you get started with, I have both 16 and 17 inch tyres. If you decide to buy wheels get 17x9 +45.
Preventive Maintenance -
- you will probably want to upgrade your wheel studs to ARP long studs and in the process you may as well replace the wheel bearings. I have a HUB tamer which makes it a snap.
- Brake ducts from front disks, they have helped my brakes woes ever since you put them on my car back in 2014. Not one brake related problem since !!. The ones I got were from WASP, pricey but worked well. I might be able to help you piece together the bumper ducts if you want to save $$$ and you can use the dust cover to mount the piece for the rotor. Ducts also help save the bearing life.
- OEM brakes are very good, just need better pads and high temp fluid. I think I have some Hawk pads. I would keep and extra set of front rotors around, they due crack unexpectantly.
- you already have all the polly bushing and you will swap the motor mounts / diff mounts as well.
Engine / drive train -
- I know you want to run a stock N/A motor, one good addition is an oil cooler, easy to install and certainly helps with cooling.
- you are getting an after market Radiator which also help. I have a new Mismoto in the box if thats what you are looking for but I believe you wanted a duel pass.
- you may want to pop the valve cover and inspect valve train, check clearances. I am not sure how you will know if the valve clips have been changed.
- alls the OEM drive train works well. When you get a few extra bucks you will want to get yourself a 4.77 ring/pinion which is the best combo for running N/A (right Paul Simpson)
I am sure there are other thoughts from the other track rats (Paul, Shiv, Aashish, Billman, Chef, Jeff).
11-19-2016, 03:04 AM
#34
Community Organizer
Thread Starter
Pretty much hit the nail square on the head with the list Greg. Only thing I would add is a canton pan, especially if you're going to be running slicks. Pretty sure I ruined my second motor in just a season from yet more oil starvation. And while you're at the brakes might as well throw on some stainless lines. Otherwise Greg's list is spot on.
11-19-2016, 12:18 PM
#37
Random thoughts for track setup - many of which you already know about and have a solution..
Ground control
- sounds like you will pursue some Ohlins which is a good choice. You need a quality sway bar also, the gold standard for the s2000 is a Gendron and I think I know where you can get one locally.
- you will probably want a camber kit for the front some you can get decent camber (-3) up front.
- and you will need some track tires which I can help you get started with, I have both 16 and 17 inch tyres. If you decide to buy wheels get 17x9 +45.
Preventive Maintenance -
- you will probably want to upgrade your wheel studs to ARP long studs and in the process you may as well replace the wheel bearings. I have a HUB tamer which makes it a snap.
- Brake ducts from front disks, they have helped my brakes woes ever since you put them on my car back in 2014. Not one brake related problem since !!. The ones I got were from WASP, pricey but worked well. I might be able to help you piece together the bumper ducts if you want to save $$$ and you can use the dust cover to mount the piece for the rotor. Ducts also help save the bearing life.
- OEM brakes are very good, just need better pads and high temp fluid. I think I have some Hawk pads. I would keep and extra set of front rotors around, they due crack unexpectantly.
- you already have all the polly bushing and you will swap the motor mounts / diff mounts as well.
Engine / drive train -
- I know you want to run a stock N/A motor, one good addition is an oil cooler, easy to install and certainly helps with cooling.
- you are getting an after market Radiator which also help. I have a new Mismoto in the box if thats what you are looking for but I believe you wanted a duel pass.
- you may want to pop the valve cover and inspect valve train, check clearances. I am not sure how you will know if the valve clips have been changed.
- alls the OEM drive train works well. When you get a few extra bucks you will want to get yourself a 4.77 ring/pinion which is the best combo for running N/A (right Paul Simpson)
I am sure there are other thoughts from the other track rats (Paul, Shiv, Aashish, Billman, Chef, Jeff).
Ground control
- sounds like you will pursue some Ohlins which is a good choice. You need a quality sway bar also, the gold standard for the s2000 is a Gendron and I think I know where you can get one locally.
- you will probably want a camber kit for the front some you can get decent camber (-3) up front.
- and you will need some track tires which I can help you get started with, I have both 16 and 17 inch tyres. If you decide to buy wheels get 17x9 +45.
Preventive Maintenance -
- you will probably want to upgrade your wheel studs to ARP long studs and in the process you may as well replace the wheel bearings. I have a HUB tamer which makes it a snap.
- Brake ducts from front disks, they have helped my brakes woes ever since you put them on my car back in 2014. Not one brake related problem since !!. The ones I got were from WASP, pricey but worked well. I might be able to help you piece together the bumper ducts if you want to save $$$ and you can use the dust cover to mount the piece for the rotor. Ducts also help save the bearing life.
- OEM brakes are very good, just need better pads and high temp fluid. I think I have some Hawk pads. I would keep and extra set of front rotors around, they due crack unexpectantly.
- you already have all the polly bushing and you will swap the motor mounts / diff mounts as well.
Engine / drive train -
- I know you want to run a stock N/A motor, one good addition is an oil cooler, easy to install and certainly helps with cooling.
- you are getting an after market Radiator which also help. I have a new Mismoto in the box if thats what you are looking for but I believe you wanted a duel pass.
- you may want to pop the valve cover and inspect valve train, check clearances. I am not sure how you will know if the valve clips have been changed.
- alls the OEM drive train works well. When you get a few extra bucks you will want to get yourself a 4.77 ring/pinion which is the best combo for running N/A (right Paul Simpson)
I am sure there are other thoughts from the other track rats (Paul, Shiv, Aashish, Billman, Chef, Jeff).
11-20-2016, 12:57 AM
#38
The weld in balfles crack and the Canton pans leak, there are no easy answers here. When I first installed the Canton it leaked so bad I took it off after 3 races. Jake saw first hand just how bad it was (he changed it for me).
I sent it back to Canton to have it machined and they laughed at me, they said "they all leak...we knew when we made them". Bastards !!.
I got it back and they had done some work to fix the warping. When I took off the baffled oil pan every weld was cracked....not just one but every single weld. Steve at Quantum said with the heat and vibration that eventually they all will crack. You need to check them every year for cracks or deal with the leaky Canton pans.
BTW - if you reading this from someplace warm (Paul) - we are waking up to snow which will force us all to begin our indoor projects. Rumor has it Jake will be installing a heating system in the S2ki Garage for the 2016 / 2017 winter.
I sent it back to Canton to have it machined and they laughed at me, they said "they all leak...we knew when we made them". Bastards !!.
I got it back and they had done some work to fix the warping. When I took off the baffled oil pan every weld was cracked....not just one but every single weld. Steve at Quantum said with the heat and vibration that eventually they all will crack. You need to check them every year for cracks or deal with the leaky Canton pans.
BTW - if you reading this from someplace warm (Paul) - we are waking up to snow which will force us all to begin our indoor projects. Rumor has it Jake will be installing a heating system in the S2ki Garage for the 2016 / 2017 winter.
Last edited by s200059; 11-20-2016 at 01:02 AM.
11-20-2016, 04:23 AM
#39
Community Organizer
Thread Starter
It cracked because of discontinuities in the weld. If heat and vibration were the cause your exhaust would be falling apart at every weld also. Weld in pans work, but the surface has to be very clean before they are welded in.
