S2000 mechanics in NYS
#1
Thread Starter
S2000 mechanics in NYS
(Cross posted: https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/115...hanics-in-nys/)
Looking for someone to clean up the cylinder head and do a valve job. I live in Syracuse. It would be nice if there were someone within an hour or two drive from here.
I am still in the midst of dismantling the engine and pulling the pistons. Cylinder 2 is clearly in the worst condition of the four. As far as the engine block goes, I'm still not sure what will be necessary to get everything back into working order. I plan to take my time and learn as I go.
Cylinder 2, bad pitting near the top.
Also have pitting and/or signs of molten metal on the cylinder head, second from right, bottom.
Bore measurements - the largest measurement that I could find in the pitted area is 3.3945". This data point is not included in the graph.
The S kept kept overheating in stop-n-go summer traffic. It all started with aftermarket radiator & slim fans. I bled the rad at least 10 times thinking there must have been air stuck in the system somewhere. The engine finally gave out. While I was preparing for compression test one day and waiting for the engine to come up to temperature, I happened to be standing at the front of the car when the fans came on. Wearing shorts, I felt a warm breeze blow by, and then realized the grill was emitting air in the wrong direction - the passenger side fan was blowing forward.
When I installed the slim fans, I pick-n-pulled a couple of fan plugs off of a Honda Accord. The S wires are black and blue, whereas the Accord uses black/blue on one, black/white on the other. My folly was to assume black goes to black when wiring up the black/white Honda plug. As much as I hate to admit it, this is my error for the world to read. Moral of the story is to check fan direction when doing an aftermarket install... you think?!
Engine mechanical suggestions are welcome, but what I'm mostly wondering right now is how far will honing get me? The widest point measured is 3.3945", the narrowest is 3.38475", so ~ 10 thousands difference at a very localized spot, as seen in cylinder pic, top left of wear marks.
Thanks
'
Looking for someone to clean up the cylinder head and do a valve job. I live in Syracuse. It would be nice if there were someone within an hour or two drive from here.
I am still in the midst of dismantling the engine and pulling the pistons. Cylinder 2 is clearly in the worst condition of the four. As far as the engine block goes, I'm still not sure what will be necessary to get everything back into working order. I plan to take my time and learn as I go.
Cylinder 2, bad pitting near the top.
Also have pitting and/or signs of molten metal on the cylinder head, second from right, bottom.
Bore measurements - the largest measurement that I could find in the pitted area is 3.3945". This data point is not included in the graph.
The S kept kept overheating in stop-n-go summer traffic. It all started with aftermarket radiator & slim fans. I bled the rad at least 10 times thinking there must have been air stuck in the system somewhere. The engine finally gave out. While I was preparing for compression test one day and waiting for the engine to come up to temperature, I happened to be standing at the front of the car when the fans came on. Wearing shorts, I felt a warm breeze blow by, and then realized the grill was emitting air in the wrong direction - the passenger side fan was blowing forward.
When I installed the slim fans, I pick-n-pulled a couple of fan plugs off of a Honda Accord. The S wires are black and blue, whereas the Accord uses black/blue on one, black/white on the other. My folly was to assume black goes to black when wiring up the black/white Honda plug. As much as I hate to admit it, this is my error for the world to read. Moral of the story is to check fan direction when doing an aftermarket install... you think?!
Engine mechanical suggestions are welcome, but what I'm mostly wondering right now is how far will honing get me? The widest point measured is 3.3945", the narrowest is 3.38475", so ~ 10 thousands difference at a very localized spot, as seen in cylinder pic, top left of wear marks.
Thanks
'
#2
Former Moderator
Do a cross post in the Under The Hood section.
Quantum Race Works seems to be the one that is locally preferred in the Albany area for engine work
http://www.quantumraceworks.com/
Quantum Race Works seems to be the one that is locally preferred in the Albany area for engine work
http://www.quantumraceworks.com/
#3
Community Organizer
Quantum/Steve is the best guy for engine building. Unfortunately you can't bore these cylinders because they have frp walls and the block will need to be sleeved costing you just a tad over 1000 alone. I would recommend looking for a good condition used engine, you'll end up saving a lot of money and time. And that will leave your existing engine which can still be parted out for a decent buck.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post