New Owner: Boardman, OH
#11
Thread Starter
Welcome and congrats on buying an S2000. There's a list of shops stickied on this forum, which should have some recommendations for places to get maintenance done. Let us know if you have any more specific questions that you can't find any information about in the rest of the sub-forums.
#12
Jon for the TCT I'm using ballade and have been very happy with it. From what I've heard, Billman is also very good I just don't have experience with that unit. install is straight forward and easy as long as you take your time. I did it in about 30 minutes while I was doing an oil change. My buddy Jake did his valve adjustment not too long ago so I think he still has the tool for it. We're in Delaware, OH which is only a couple hours from you if you'd like some help. Cheers!
#13
Billman's GenX is the only TCT I'd consider. Actually already did at 40,000 miles 3 or 4 years ago. 10 minute job with the right wrench for me but I had swapped out the OEM air cleaner for the K&N FIPK (really for the induction noise but they claim a pony or two) so there was good access. With that air filter I can change the oil filter from under the hood too and using the oil scavenge pump (from my boat) I don't have to get under there and loosen any drains. News article in the past month or so about the express oil changes done at a big Honda dealer in Cleveland Heights extracting oil this way. A non messy way of doing it. Honda only calls for a filter change every other oil change but they're relatively cheap. Be sure to get the right filter. Messages here indicate some Honda dealers don't know the right part number.
Complete fluid swap is in order to get maintenance back on track. Lots of recommendations on what to use. Just follow the specs in your owner's manual and don't obsess over brand names -- everyone has their favorite. Full synthetic 5W-30 Royal Purple in my car, Honda MTF in the gearbox just swapped out for Royal Purple SyncroMax (based on LHTPerformance recommendation), Amsoil 75W-110 GL5 gear oil going in the differential once I get the aftermarket diffuser off the car and can access the diff. I'm fixing (as we say here in Virginia) to do a compete hydraulic fluid replacement using Billman's Gravity method. I flushed out the reservoirs under the hood and found the fluid shockingly filthy so this will happen as soon as time permits. This is routine maintenance. Several detailed photo essays in the library here.
Cabin air filter (under the cowl rubber seal and snaps) is probably filthy.
Ignore stuff like the steering wheel for now. It can be recovered next winter when the car will be in storage. First item and key to handling is tires. The OEM tires decades ago were good but tire technology is highly competitive and good tires abound. A hundred tire threads here with brand favorites. I've had two sets of Extreme Performance Summer tires and dropped down a category to Max Performace this time with no difference I can detect (and less road noise). I'm running Bridgestone S-04 in "CR" spec (215F/255R). Again opinions and cars vary.
Just moved south from NE Ohio and getting 3 or 4 more months of good driving.
-- Chuck
Complete fluid swap is in order to get maintenance back on track. Lots of recommendations on what to use. Just follow the specs in your owner's manual and don't obsess over brand names -- everyone has their favorite. Full synthetic 5W-30 Royal Purple in my car, Honda MTF in the gearbox just swapped out for Royal Purple SyncroMax (based on LHTPerformance recommendation), Amsoil 75W-110 GL5 gear oil going in the differential once I get the aftermarket diffuser off the car and can access the diff. I'm fixing (as we say here in Virginia) to do a compete hydraulic fluid replacement using Billman's Gravity method. I flushed out the reservoirs under the hood and found the fluid shockingly filthy so this will happen as soon as time permits. This is routine maintenance. Several detailed photo essays in the library here.
Cabin air filter (under the cowl rubber seal and snaps) is probably filthy.
Ignore stuff like the steering wheel for now. It can be recovered next winter when the car will be in storage. First item and key to handling is tires. The OEM tires decades ago were good but tire technology is highly competitive and good tires abound. A hundred tire threads here with brand favorites. I've had two sets of Extreme Performance Summer tires and dropped down a category to Max Performace this time with no difference I can detect (and less road noise). I'm running Bridgestone S-04 in "CR" spec (215F/255R). Again opinions and cars vary.
Just moved south from NE Ohio and getting 3 or 4 more months of good driving.
-- Chuck
Last edited by Chuck S; 05-18-2018 at 04:48 AM.
#14
Thread Starter
Thanks Chuck- This is really helpful information. I'll focus on maintenance and will likely scoop up the Billman TCT this weekend. I'll admit, i'm not the most handy guy. I've never changed any type of oil, so I scheduled some time with H-A in Cuyahoga to perform a 100k maintenance and valve adjustment on the 29th. I'm open to suggestions if i should consider elsewhere/otherwise. Thanks everyone!
#15
Thanks Chuck- This is really helpful information. I'll focus on maintenance and will likely scoop up the Billman TCT this weekend. I'll admit, i'm not the most handy guy. I've never changed any type of oil, so I scheduled some time with H-A in Cuyahoga to perform a 100k maintenance and valve adjustment on the 29th. I'm open to suggestions if i should consider elsewhere/otherwise. Thanks everyone!
The TCT isn't too bad to do yourself if you have the few wrenches you need to do it. There is a DIY somewhere on this forum that walks you through the exact steps. Just make sure you don't uncompress the spring on the new TCT until you get to that step, try not to drop everything in the old TCT when you pull it out (I did and just had to find it all on my garage floor), and triple check you have removed the ratchet on the engine pulley before starting the engine).
#16
H-A? Something I missed in a near lifetime in Cleveland? Not that it helps me here in Richmond.
Valves have to be checked/adjusted cold (under 100°F). Takes hours for the engine to cool after a highway run.
-- Chuck
Valves have to be checked/adjusted cold (under 100°F). Takes hours for the engine to cool after a highway run.
-- Chuck
#17
Thread Starter