Waiting for Parts is Driving Me Crazy!
07-19-2007, 06:17 PM
#22
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Did a sanity test on the battery yesterday. Turned on the headlights, high beams and then raised/lowered the top then started the car and turned it off. 10 cycles and the engine cranked fine and started.
Drilled some holes in the stock battery tray to bolt down the battery. It's seems OK, but I'll probably get custom battery tray fabbed. The stock battery is 26 lb, so it's a 23 lb weight savings.
Now to see if the battery recharges OK with some daily driving. And then if it survives the heat and shaking of a Calabogie track day on Thursday.
Drilled some holes in the stock battery tray to bolt down the battery. It's seems OK, but I'll probably get custom battery tray fabbed. The stock battery is 26 lb, so it's a 23 lb weight savings.
Now to see if the battery recharges OK with some daily driving. And then if it survives the heat and shaking of a Calabogie track day on Thursday.
07-20-2007, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Fongu,Jul 16 2007, 06:13 PM
Got the battery in the mail today. And it really is 3 lbs, crazy light.
The actual battery is encased in a plastic box, that weave on the front is faux carbon fiber tape. The battery is a nanophosphate lithium, supposedly a safe variant of lithium ion batteries that are found in laptops, so it is dry and solid, unlike a typical lead acid battery. I hear it moving around when the battery is shook hard. Wonder if something going break internally when it is installed on the car. The other hokey thing is the two bonus holes near the terminals that are covered by electrical tape. Obviously it was a redrill through the casing to fix existing stock. Not really commercial quality, but not surprising from a small company.
Going to install it sometime this week to see how it works out.
The actual battery is encased in a plastic box, that weave on the front is faux carbon fiber tape. The battery is a nanophosphate lithium, supposedly a safe variant of lithium ion batteries that are found in laptops, so it is dry and solid, unlike a typical lead acid battery. I hear it moving around when the battery is shook hard. Wonder if something going break internally when it is installed on the car. The other hokey thing is the two bonus holes near the terminals that are covered by electrical tape. Obviously it was a redrill through the casing to fix existing stock. Not really commercial quality, but not surprising from a small company.
Going to install it sometime this week to see how it works out.
It doesn't serve any structural purpose, though, just for looks.
BTW this is Tony from Voltphreaks, found this thread via google, so just wanted to comment on the CF thing. Been monitoring the boards since we just released this product.
As for the extra holes, it appears we shipped a cosmetically defective battery. The hole definitely isn't normal, and the shaking problem has been eliminated in current runs. If you want we can ship a replacement, just shoot me a PM.
- Tony (Voltphreaks)
07-21-2007, 04:16 AM
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Next piece of the puzzle arrived.
Don't have any of the other parts to install or tune it yet, but it's a start. Have all the Honda OEM replacement parts required for installation ready to ship, except the TDC sensor. The cams/header should be ready, but Hytech is away from the shop until Tuesday.
Funny how the part that's not officially released yet comes in first!
I just wanted to get a reservation so there wouldn't be a delay with the ECU. Tapp called into Hondata to get an update ... the Hondata guy checked and said there was a unit available and shipped it. It's like he went into the lab and found one still lying around 
Don't have any of the other parts to install or tune it yet, but it's a start. Have all the Honda OEM replacement parts required for installation ready to ship, except the TDC sensor. The cams/header should be ready, but Hytech is away from the shop until Tuesday.
Funny how the part that's not officially released yet comes in first!
I just wanted to get a reservation so there wouldn't be a delay with the ECU. Tapp called into Hondata to get an update ... the Hondata guy checked and said there was a unit available and shipped it. It's like he went into the lab and found one still lying around
07-23-2007, 04:58 PM
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Got a few days driving the car with the Voltphreak battery temporarily mounted. All the electrical and engine starting is still working like normal. I ran the CD player with the engine off for about an hour while working on the car on the weekend with no issues. I know it's not a big stress test, but that and pumping my tires with an electric pump is the biggest load I'll personally do.
The side of the battery facing the engine does get pretty hot though. Have to get a measurement on that to see if it's near the 140 degree fahrenheit max. temperature. Having the Toda header without the OEM heatshield probably doesn't help, and it is surprising how hot the battery tray gets from the chassis. Probably put some kind of temperature blanket around it anyways for those track days.
The freaky thing when driving the car for the first time, was how sluggish it was for the first 40 or so km. Usually people cycle the power to reset the ECU to get a pop in performance. I'm guessing that the I/H/E installed now is different enough from stock to cause the ECU to freak out and go into a safe mode and going really rich. After driving along for a while the ECU relearned and the car was driving like normal. I wouldn't of thought I could feel the difference from 20lbs, but it does feel a little more peppy. It kind of makes sense though since it's the same as a 1/3 of a tank of gas, and I can feel that weight difference from autocrossing.
The side of the battery facing the engine does get pretty hot though. Have to get a measurement on that to see if it's near the 140 degree fahrenheit max. temperature. Having the Toda header without the OEM heatshield probably doesn't help, and it is surprising how hot the battery tray gets from the chassis. Probably put some kind of temperature blanket around it anyways for those track days.
The freaky thing when driving the car for the first time, was how sluggish it was for the first 40 or so km. Usually people cycle the power to reset the ECU to get a pop in performance. I'm guessing that the I/H/E installed now is different enough from stock to cause the ECU to freak out and go into a safe mode and going really rich. After driving along for a while the ECU relearned and the car was driving like normal. I wouldn't of thought I could feel the difference from 20lbs, but it does feel a little more peppy. It kind of makes sense though since it's the same as a 1/3 of a tank of gas, and I can feel that weight difference from autocrossing.
08-04-2007, 07:29 AM
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More parts... One package from USPS/CanadaPost and another from the Brown truck. (Stupid Brown $50 brokerage fee.)
Most of the OEM parts required for the Hondata. Still waiting for a crank sensor from Ottawa Honda.
An additional wideband O2 sensor to datalog AFR's to monitor the tuning after the install.
Still no shipment of the key Hytech cams and header, although it sounds like they should be ready to ship anytime.
Maybe I'll see the front swaybar and J's roll centers this year...
Most of the OEM parts required for the Hondata. Still waiting for a crank sensor from Ottawa Honda.
An additional wideband O2 sensor to datalog AFR's to monitor the tuning after the install.
Still no shipment of the key Hytech cams and header, although it sounds like they should be ready to ship anytime.
Maybe I'll see the front swaybar and J's roll centers this year...
08-05-2007, 03:10 AM
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The Hondata for the S2000 is a modified K20Pro, i.e. "RSX" ECU. The new engines including the DBW F22C's use different sensors, which is why I had to get all those new OEM parts. The valve cover is slightly different for the new sensor mounting.
It would have been nice to be able to use the wideband sensor to control AFR, like the K20's, but the Hondata still uses the factory narrowband for closed loop operation. I don't know if you can still monkey around with it, to do things like tuning for fuel economy.
An AP2 transmission is something I would get sometime, probably when the clutch needs replacing whenever that's going to happen. Andrew got one from Hardtopguy when the train full of S2000's derailed. I'm pretty sure it was cheaper than that used one in the For Sale forum.
It would have been nice to be able to use the wideband sensor to control AFR, like the K20's, but the Hondata still uses the factory narrowband for closed loop operation. I don't know if you can still monkey around with it, to do things like tuning for fuel economy.
An AP2 transmission is something I would get sometime, probably when the clutch needs replacing whenever that's going to happen. Andrew got one from Hardtopguy when the train full of S2000's derailed. I'm pretty sure it was cheaper than that used one in the For Sale forum.