DaGou

MY 2006 OEM hardtop and hardware. Not a striker issue. The latch itself connected to the hardtop rattles. There are two screws that hold it in, the smaller rear screw is fine. The larger forward screw is stripped I guess. It will not tighten and will not come out. Tried shimming it and it just spun in a different spot! From the exploded diagram I do not even see a nut that it tightens too. I am thinking there is maybe like a barrel insert in the hardtop that is turning. Could be this: 90332-SL0-013 025 016 NUT, POP (6MM) but it shows quantity of 16
I know for sure the screw is this: 90131-S2A-J00 035 002 SCREW, TRUSS (6X25)

I even took a small crow bar and hammered it in under the screw and put pressure on it while my buddy put all he had on the screw and either it would not turn or just spin. I do not want to attempt to drill it if a) I still have the same problem when the screw is out if the (barrel)? turns and b) there is a good chance that I will end up putting the drill through the hard top.

So anybody have this problem before or have any insight that could help?

Mnstr2000

I just looked in the hard top shell I have, and it looks like there is a threaded insert for the 2 screws that is attached to a small plate that is then spot welded onto the inside of the roof edge doubler. If it is spinning it would be a hard fix, as there is no access into the area. If you remove the other side latch you may be able to see what I mean. The only dumb idea I have is to put the top upside down, loosen the other screw a bit and squirt some kind of urethane caulk under the latch to fill the gap, then tighten the other screw back up, and kill the rattle with goo, but as the headliner is between the latch and roof it would be a problem. Is the other screw tight?

S2KSean

I don't have an OEM hardtop so I can't say what's inside but if it's a threaded plate you can drill it out and thread bigger. Maybe not beautiful (since it won't match the rest when done) but it's the best, most secure way.
Id suggest sliding a washer over your drill bit and layering some tape behind it so you you limit your drill bit depth (so you don't go through the other side).

zeroptzero

Yup been there done that.

There is a threaded insert welded into the hardtop. Somehow the welds on the insert break and Honda used red locktite on the bolt that goes into the threaded insert. The bolt just spins and it can't come out because the threaded insert is bonded to the bolt and is wider than the hole which the bolt passes through.

You need to drill the head off the bolt, just be careful and it works fine. As soon as you drill the head off the threaded insert drops into the frame of the hardtop. You then stand the hardtop on the glass edge so the threaded insert rolls to the back of the headliner and you fish it out with a magnetic tool or similar object. Have a buddy help you roll the hardtop around until you can grasp the broken piece.

After that you can use the pop nut that you referred to, you drill out a hole large enough for the pop nut and then have it installed with the proper tool. I made up my own tool, I didn't buy the threaded insert from Honda, I went aftermarket and just put in a different sized bolt, but the Honda pop nut would be a more standard size for the oem bolts. This hole thing is a pain in the ass, once you get it fixed it is good as new.

DaGou

This is why I love s2ki! You reach out and total strangers take the time to step up and help you out. Thanks very much guys.

DaGou

to close this thread out I did use a Rivnut from:

Cardinal Components Inc | ISO CERTIFIED
Toll-Free 800.236.3200 | Main 262.252.2300 | Fax 262.252.5033
Address N59 W13500 Manhardt Drive, Menomonee Falls, WI 53051
WBE Certified for Women Owned Business | www.rivnut.com

I bought some rivnuts and a installation tool for a M6. The first one I put in I stripped as I over tightened it(how else do you strip it). Anyway I had to drill it bigger and bought M8 rivnuts and another install tool. The inner liner of the top where this rivnut attaches is made of three layers of aluminum. The inner layer separated from the other two causing much problems getting the old rivnuts out. I also dented my top and messed up the paint from drilling and pounding and poking. It cost over $300 in materials(the tools are expensive) and now I need to paint the top. However the latch is tight and does not rattle in the least. I also coated the M8 rivnut in JB Weld before I installed it.

zeroptzero

This is quite possibly one of the most tricky repairs you can do on these cars. Glad to hear that you got it resolved, despite the costs and damage. With hardtops getting harder to find everyday it is worth saving them and keeping them in circulation. Good luck going forward.

8kGoodENuff

I have 2 questions:

• To drill out the head of the screw, what size drill bit did you use? I'm assuming this is a much better option that cutting the head off with a dremel?
• I noticed that when the latch is open, it doesn't seem to give a perfectly perpendicular angle to the screw head. Was this a problem?

Thanks in advance.