S2000 Body and Paint Body kits, paint, ding repair and related discussions

Will it Perform Agin After Frame-Damage

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Old 03-24-2014, 12:15 PM
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Default Will it Perform Agin After Frame-Damage

So, I damaged my poor 2005 S2000 last week. Upon attempting to make a light on a rainy day, going roughly 20-25 mph, I spun out and hit a curb which severely damaged my front-end. The damage didn’t seem too bad and the airbags did NOT go off. In fact, it seemed – at first – as though it was only the front bumper which had a large crack and a big scrape all across the bottom. Then when I popped the hood I saw the radiator had been pushed back about 3 inches because the frame and shock beam on the front was pushed back (causing the frame to bend). I then had trouble closing the hood – which truly signified that something was wrong.

I took the car to the body shop and upon inspection; it seems that the front frame was bent. The body shop assured me they can repair it – which would include putting it on a frame machine (laser-precision and all) and re-straighten it back in order. They say this involves potentially cutting the old beam out and welding a new one back in place of it.

I’m no expert in frame and structure but apparently it’s a huge deal in the auto world. I am NOT worried about depreciation of value because I DO NOT plan on selling this car – ever. But that doesn’t mean I don’t want it to run perfectly (or as perfect as can be). My concern is it seems to me that in the auto world, frame damage = the end of the car.

How true is this? Again, I don’t care about my car’s worth as I am not selling it nor do I plan on selling it. But does this mean that it’ll never drive the way it should even after expert repair?

I just purchased this car about two months ago. I’m 26 now but I’ve wanted an S2000 since I was 14. There’s no way I’m going to trash the car. But my question is, will the car’s integrity hold after these repairs? Even with substantial frame-repair and refurbishment, is the car done?

I’m really depressed about all of this. I’m absolutely in love with this car. I purchased it and have spent money on the engine to maintain it back to factory specifications and to make it run like new again. Eventually I want to replace the suspension with new factory (CR-spec) suspension, as well as parts of the engine with factory parts in order to restore it to being as new as possible. But every time anyone anywhere mentions frame-damage, I find that replies are incredibly cynical and make it sound as though the car is done for. Is this the case? Is the car’s performance truly compromised even AFTER repair?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 03-25-2014, 02:26 PM
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Say they fix it to 95%.. why continue with a less than perfect base? Why not get another one and know that there is no frame damage? I love my S2k too, but there's more out there that are the same thing.
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:56 PM
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I'm no mad scientist, but did they thoroughly check the frame? From what I understand the crumble zones on the car prevent say the front part of the frame to take the full force before the force become transferred to other crumble points, it's designed to absorb the impact quite evenly. Just like a piece of paper, if you try crumbling it you won't be able to just crumble the first part of the paper only.

If the damage was truly only the 3 inch after the rad support, then honestly it shouldn't be a problem, not every frame damage constitute a write off. However, if the damage is beyond that and has reached the suspension components then I would look for another car if the performance of the car is that important to you.
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Old 05-20-2015, 04:28 PM
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I work on cars for a living and have straightened plenty of cars. I have had new cars that come in where we have had to cut and replace the whole front clip and they drive down the street straight and true. Just make sure you don't use a hack shop and you will never know the deffrence.
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cuci591
I work on cars for a living and have straightened plenty of cars. I have had new cars that come in where we have had to cut and replace the whole front clip and they drive down the street straight and true. Just make sure you don't use a hack shop and you will never know the deffrence.
That may be the case on most unibody vehicles but is NOT the case on this car; I've driven a mint one and salvage title frame damaged and repaired back to back, and the repaired one, even though it drove perfect in a straight line, did not handle correctly and tire wear was obvious. These cars are built to precision standards far above most others as far as chassis engineering is concerned. I say get another accident free car and keep yours for parts... My .02
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by cuci591
I work on cars for a living and have straightened plenty of cars. I have had new cars that come in where we have had to cut and replace the whole front clip and they drive down the street straight and true. Just make sure you don't use a hack shop and you will never know the deference.

This. If the shop knows what they are doing it should not be a problem....make the shop give you the measurement print outs before, and after the repairs are done. and also the alignment sheet. You may have to stay on top of them about it, as most shop will get it "within specs"( typical "within specs" is 5mm. OEM specs are within 3mm.)tell them you want it done top notch. but a capable shop should have no problem replacing one or both frame ends.
after the repairs are complete take it to a Honda dealership to inspect their work..if anything is out, or wrong, your insurance company will help you out. If its all good you may have to pay the service charge at the dealership, but its worth the piece of mind.


or if you don't care about resale....let insurance total it...buy it back and fix it with the check they give you....you could come out slightly ahead depending on what you settle on.

good luck

this is based off personal experience..I write estimates all day for a living.
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Old 05-22-2015, 08:38 AM
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That may be the case on most unibody vehicles but is NOT the case on this car; I've driven a mint one and salvage title frame damaged and repaired back to back, and the repaired one, even though it drove perfect in a straight line, did not handle correctly and tire wear was obvious. These cars are built to precision standards far above most others as far as chassis engineering is concerned. I say get another accident free car and keep yours for parts... My .02
[/quote]

this all depends on who "fixed" the car...I can weld some frame rails on and get the body panels to fit correctly, but that does not mean it is repaired correctly.
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Old 05-22-2015, 06:23 PM
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As stated in the above posts. A unibody is a unibody is a unibody. Done correctly you will never no the deference. Don't use a hack shop and you will be fine. Don't let people who are not in your situation try to tell you diffrent.
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Old 05-22-2015, 06:24 PM
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At the end of the day do what feels right to you.
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Old 05-29-2018, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by cuci591
As stated in the above posts. A unibody is a unibody is a unibody. Done correctly you will never no the deference. Don't use a hack shop and you will be fine. Don't let people who are not in your situation try to tell you diffrent.
The cars Chasis was welded by Robots due to it being impossible for humans to do it. In this case he has NO FRAME DAMAGE, i'm 99% sure from looking at the picture. What does happen from an impact liek this is the radiator support bends and the welds brake
which in case takes it from being perpendicular to flat ground aka 90 degrees to off by 3-5 degrees or more, hence causing the hood latch not to close properly. Just weld the radiator mount back into place or some people completely replace it

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S-dJan1ZL2...600/images.jpg

as you can see in this picture the radiator mount IS NOT PART OF THE FRAME, and hence NOT A VITAL COMPONENT. How do I know, I bought an s2k that that had that problem and fixed it. Temp fix for hod latch is a spacer (like oem Oil drain plug Washer) on bottom left bolt, to bring the hood lock back perpendicular to the ground. Enjoy if you want post more pics so I can see , also its hard to see all of the frame unless fender liners are removed and pictures taken inside. or take of entire fenders with fender liner
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