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There is a reason Ohlins chose 2mm. Its to limit shock compression travel for safety, and to increase shock rebound travel for lots of reasons. Probably also as somewhat of a suspension tuning method.
And here is my question: with the SBG recommended rear preload (15mm for my 8kg/mm spring for example), is there still enough rebound travel to keep the wheel in contact of the road on bumpy roads and/or hard turns ??
On my MY02 AP1 I actually have set 9mm preload on my 8kg/mm rear springs, and I already wonder if my inner rear wheel isn't lifting on hard turns...
Just got a set of Ohlins for MY2008 S2000 and they gave me options of default 11k/7k spring setup or 10k/8k and I went for the latter as remember reading on here 10k/8k was preferred.
The manual with the kit I believe is for the 11k/7k setup and recommends a default of 25mm drop with 1mm front preload and 10mm rear preload.
As I am running the Ohlins 10k/8k springs and its a fast road car (not track work) and the car is otherwise stock, should I stick to the 1mm and 10mm preload settings or is there a better setting to go with please?
We get a lot of question each day about the Öhlins DFV Rear preload. Öhlinsrecommends 2mm of preload on all their kits which for the most part is perfect, however through years of developing the DFV on our shop s2000 we have found that it is far from ideal on the rear of s2000. The s2000 has a very short rear damper and from the factory even comes with a piggyback reservoir due to this constraint. Because of the small space available, the standard DFV kit has limited rear damper stroke. This isn't necessarily a huge concern as long as the person setting up your suspension realizes and accounts for it.
We will happily provide complete setup consultation for our customers but due to the number of requests we get we simply can't help every single person with the level of detail that we help our customers. We do offer the consultation as a stand alone service here.
That said we do want to help the community make sure they get the most out of their DFVs. They are fantastic dampers and we want to make sure everyone gets the most possible performance out of them.
To help out, we have made a graph of maximum obtainable ride height drop in inches vs spring rate and preload. Green squares are the approximate range of preload we recommend for the rear. Yellow is outside of the recommend range but acceptable. Red is not recommended and should be avoided in our opinion. Squares with Black X's there is bumpstop contact while the car is at rest and should absolutely be avoided.
These our simply our general recommendations and are different for every situation, if you are interested in our damper consultation we will go into much more depth.
If you want to be lower than the standard DFVs allow, then please check out our single piece rear lower mount. With the mount you can go 2" lower than these values to be able to obtain the correct preload and ride height without compromise. Also you can go 1.5" higher than these values which is higher than stock regardless of spring rate or preload.
No idea that is why I am asking. Lowering 20mm which is around 0.8" I believe so my guess is around 12mm preload in the year with 8k springs.
But what about front with 10k springs as that is not mention, manual states 1mm which I think is for 11k springs.
I'm wanting to keep the stock ride height and use the Ohlins with the supplied springs.
This is the closet posted I could find.With all of Ohlins' recommendations, you will be 1" (25mm) lower than stock at the wheels.
So set the front lower bracket height 0.59" (15mm) longer than they show.
The rear. Either:
- set the bottom bracket length 0.58 (14.5mm) longer than they show.
- or better yet, preload 0.58" (14.5mm) more than they recommend. You'll end up with 16.5mm of preload. They recommend 2mm. You're adding 14.5.
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However it seems adding rear preload prevents them from bottoming out. So would I need to do both in the rear? The springs are linear so I don't see how this would change ride height.
I installed the FPSport Ohlins from Sakebomb few weeks ago. They forgot to ship the instruction manual with it and, to cut to the chase, I had to get it installed without it. Per my friend's advice, I did 1mm preload (199m spring height) in the front and 10mm (170mm spring height) in the rear. Spring rates are 11kg for both front/rear.
I got the manual delivered a little later and it recommends 2mm preload for both front/rear.
My question is... Am I at the risk of bottoming out the cup with 10mm preload in the rear? The car feels great and I don't feel or hear anything weird at my current setting. Fwiw, the ride height in the rear is about 338mm (from center of the wheel to fender).
I installed the FPSport Ohlins from Sakebomb few weeks ago. They forgot to ship the instruction manual with it and, to cut to the chase, I had to get it installed without it. Per my friend's advice, I did 1mm preload (199m spring height) in the front and 10mm (170mm spring height) in the rear. Spring rates are 11kg for both front/rear.
I got the manual delivered a little later and it recommends 2mm preload for both front/rear.
My question is... Am I at the risk of bottoming out the cup with 10mm preload in the rear? The car feels great and I don't feel or hear anything weird at my current setting. Fwiw, the ride height in the rear is about 338mm (from center of the wheel to fender).
Bottoming out the cup is referring to maxing out an adjustment. Not like...something that happens when driving.
If you're happy with your current height and you were able to achieve it...then...you haven't bottomed out the cup.
I'll let someone from SBG comment about whether you should change your preload settings since its their setup.
If you decide you want to reduce preload from 10mm to 2mm, you'd simply turn the spring perch DOWNWARD (clockwise) 5.3 turns. Then thread the body OUT of the cup (anti-clockwise) by the same 5.3 turns. Ride height won't change if you do it that way.
09-06-2019, 12:29 PM
