Best Camber Angle on square set up
10-22-2013, 01:20 PM
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Best Camber Angle on square set up
Hello all ,
Need some advice, I am building a wide body and want the proper camber set up for track at( Laguna Seca and Willow springs) and street use.
Here are the peramiters.
Building costum fenders so width is not a issue
I have a square set up
With KW suspension lowered 1.5"
Cusco swaybars
Vluk weels with 255's all the way around.
Any advice ?
Thanks Eric
Need some advice, I am building a wide body and want the proper camber set up for track at( Laguna Seca and Willow springs) and street use.
Here are the peramiters.
Building costum fenders so width is not a issue
I have a square set up
With KW suspension lowered 1.5"
Cusco swaybars
Vluk weels with 255's all the way around.
Any advice ?
Thanks Eric
10-22-2013, 07:48 PM
#3
You should drive the car and then figure out what it needs. You are in a much better position to figure this out then we are behind a computer. 50% of the handling of your car is driving style anyway 
To help you out with basic camber theory. Heat management is one major goal, as in being even across the tread width. An even tire temp offers more consistent wear and traction. There will always be a compromise between best track /street camber because you cant get the entire up to temp on the street with track alignment, but for the track if you don't have enough camber you will suffer. For the front, since the tires have a different duty compared to rear(turning) heat management coupled with turn in response is altered by camber. More negative camber gives you more turn in sensitivity. This could be a bad or good thing, generally I find it a good attribute on my car/set up. You may feel differently. More negative camber front and rear will reduce strait line traction as well as braking traction due to less tire surface on the ground in this scenario.
There is always a compromise. Figure out what "feels" confidence inspiring to you as this is half the equation in going fast, as well as what the car clearly shows it needs. Drive time is the only way to know these things, especially if tuning to a specific track.
I assume you have done this test/tuning I speak of already, to know a square set up is faster for you?
To help you out with basic camber theory. Heat management is one major goal, as in being even across the tread width. An even tire temp offers more consistent wear and traction. There will always be a compromise between best track /street camber because you cant get the entire up to temp on the street with track alignment, but for the track if you don't have enough camber you will suffer. For the front, since the tires have a different duty compared to rear(turning) heat management coupled with turn in response is altered by camber. More negative camber gives you more turn in sensitivity. This could be a bad or good thing, generally I find it a good attribute on my car/set up. You may feel differently. More negative camber front and rear will reduce strait line traction as well as braking traction due to less tire surface on the ground in this scenario.
There is always a compromise. Figure out what "feels" confidence inspiring to you as this is half the equation in going fast, as well as what the car clearly shows it needs. Drive time is the only way to know these things, especially if tuning to a specific track.
I assume you have done this test/tuning I speak of already, to know a square set up is faster for you?
10-23-2013, 08:23 AM
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You should drive the car and then figure out what it needs. You are in a much better position to figure this out then we are behind a computer. 50% of the handling of your car is driving style anyway
To help you out with basic camber theory. Heat management is one major goal, as in being even across the tread width. An even tire temp offers more consistent wear and traction. There will always be a compromise between best track /street camber because you cant get the entire up to temp on the street with track alignment, but for the track if you don't have enough camber you will suffer. For the front, since the tires have a different duty compared to rear(turning) heat management coupled with turn in response is altered by camber. More negative camber gives you more turn in sensitivity. This could be a bad or good thing, generally I find it a good attribute on my car/set up. You may feel differently. More negative camber front and rear will reduce strait line traction as well as braking traction due to less tire surface on the ground in this scenario.
There is always a compromise. Figure out what "feels" confidence inspiring to you as this is half the equation in going fast, as well as what the car clearly shows it needs. Drive time is the only way to know these things, especially if tuning to a specific track.
I assume you have done this test/tuning I speak of already, to know a square set up is faster for you?
To help you out with basic camber theory. Heat management is one major goal, as in being even across the tread width. An even tire temp offers more consistent wear and traction. There will always be a compromise between best track /street camber because you cant get the entire up to temp on the street with track alignment, but for the track if you don't have enough camber you will suffer. For the front, since the tires have a different duty compared to rear(turning) heat management coupled with turn in response is altered by camber. More negative camber gives you more turn in sensitivity. This could be a bad or good thing, generally I find it a good attribute on my car/set up. You may feel differently. More negative camber front and rear will reduce strait line traction as well as braking traction due to less tire surface on the ground in this scenario.
There is always a compromise. Figure out what "feels" confidence inspiring to you as this is half the equation in going fast, as well as what the car clearly shows it needs. Drive time is the only way to know these things, especially if tuning to a specific track.
I assume you have done this test/tuning I speak of already, to know a square set up is faster for you?
Thanks Eric
10-23-2013, 08:56 AM
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You'll also want to tune the rear toe to your liking. I'd start somewhere around .2" of total rear toe in. If it feels pushy on corner entrance or exit, you could bring the total rear toe closer to 1/8" total rear toe in. If it feels loose on corner entrance or exit, you could increase the total rear toe in to about 1/4".
If you experience mid-corner push or oversteer, you need to make a spring or anti-roll bar change.
10-23-2013, 03:40 PM
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255 Hankook RS3 I liked -3.4 all around, 5/32" toe rear, 0 toe front, max caster. But as others have said, your experience may vary.
Where are you located? You listed NorCal and SoCal tracks so not sure where you are nearest to.
Where are you located? You listed NorCal and SoCal tracks so not sure where you are nearest to.
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10-24-2013, 04:40 PM
#8
1) The video on youtube of the Prototype going around the 'Ring on staggered 16" sizes. It didn't seem too slow to me.
2) The realization (via my experience there) that autox is a degenerate sport, specialized beyond any applicability to the real world. Just because all the STR guys/gals run square doesn't mean that it's faster/better on the street. It's faster around cones. Who cares?
10-24-2013, 07:09 PM
#9
It's going to depend on your spring rates, swaybars, dampers, and ride height. As the other guys have said, somewhere around 3* should be good.
For comparison, I am running moton dampers with 900lb front and 800lb rear springs. On NT01's, my camber settings were 3.3* front and 2.7* rear. After switching over to Hankook Ventus TD's, I had to increase the camber a bit to get the wear and temperatures consistent across the thread. Pick up a tire pyrometer, it's a good investment for dialing in your camber. Also make sure you are consistent and accurate with your tire pressures.
For comparison, I am running moton dampers with 900lb front and 800lb rear springs. On NT01's, my camber settings were 3.3* front and 2.7* rear. After switching over to Hankook Ventus TD's, I had to increase the camber a bit to get the wear and temperatures consistent across the thread. Pick up a tire pyrometer, it's a good investment for dialing in your camber. Also make sure you are consistent and accurate with your tire pressures.
10-25-2013, 06:39 AM
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