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Better upgrade for ap1? Ap2 rear subframe or rear bumpsteer kit

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Old 01-06-2018, 10:36 PM
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Any idea what caused the arm to let go in this case? Over tightening? Corrosion?
Old 01-07-2018, 05:50 AM
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I'm in the process of swapping to an AP2 subframe. I wanted the reliability of OEM parts. Also, I picked it up for $180 which is about the same price as a BSK. Small bonus: it included rear calipers with new discs and OEM pads as well as speed sensors in good condition. I don't mind the labor - it's not a difficult project for the winter.

Also, in order to adjust the aftermarket BSK, don't you need a bump steer gauge? You can't just bolt it in.

Lastly, IIRC, the aftermarket BSK don't allow use of 16" wheels. I still have the OEM wheels for the street and like the stock/stealth look. Plus, saved the cost of a new set of wheels.
Old 01-07-2018, 07:26 AM
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I saw the same video bullwings posted when I was considering a bsk and an ap2 sf. There are also more stories of bsk's breaking here on s2ki. I went with ap2 sf.
Old 01-07-2018, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by DanielB
Also, in order to adjust the aftermarket BSK, don't you need a bump steer gauge? You can't just bolt it in.

.
No you dont need a gauge, this isn't reinventing the wheel every time one of these kits is installed on an s2000. There is only a few spacing positions to set based on your ride height, and that is pretty clearly lined out on this forum, as well as what comes with the kit if I recall.
Old 01-08-2018, 04:40 AM
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I think it might be possible to use 16" wheels with aftermarket toe arms, I'm going to try it at least in case I want to roll on stockies.
Got a Hardrace one waiting to be delivered by UPS today.
Swapping subframe seems like an awful lot of work just for a small correction like this.
Old 01-08-2018, 06:28 AM
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yeah, seeing that vid is one thing that does kinda worry me. And since I daily drive my S2000 as well as track it, I put lots of miles on my car. I havent read too much information on lifespan of the spherical bearings on the aftermarket BSKs.
Old 01-08-2018, 09:49 AM
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As I mentioned before in my original reply...the issue with BSK's is that you are adding in a much larger bending load than any of the parts in the system are engineered for.

Its not an issue due to spherical bearings. The stock toe arm has a ball joint (bearing) at one end.

A BSK just increases the length of the stud so that the toe arm sits higher in relation to the spindle.

The spindle mounting point and the stud will now see a large bending load.

BSK's should be visually inspected and maintained regularly. Its is a RACE part. I don't even think any of them come with booted joints, do they?

A BSK is the most effective way to reduce bumpsteer. But its not an OEM part which you can neglect and expect to last.

Ever wonder why Honda bothered to re-design the entire subframe for the AP2 rather than just lengthening the toe arm stud?

The subframe is more involved...but a much more safe system.
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Old 01-08-2018, 10:09 AM
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All good advice to inspect along with the rest of the car, but there is no rule on how often. Conditions matter with longevity of any part. The Megan toe arms have earned my trust, I'm hard on my shit! They come with ball joint boots, these are highly recommended. I've got a handful of track days on mine under heavy load/ 295 and 315' size tires on my car. About 5 years old now, with maybe 30k miles on them. Still look in great shape. But like mentioned, conditions matter too and if your driving this car year round on wintery salted roads etc, I would expect any moveable stress parts to take an extra beating.

Last edited by s2000Junky; 01-08-2018 at 10:15 AM.
Old 01-08-2018, 11:11 AM
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Based on B_serious' description of where the loads are different between the OEM and aftermarket parts, how would you go about inspecting the BSK? Would you need to remove the stud from the joint to look for cracks?
Old 01-08-2018, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by DanielB
Based on B_serious' description of where the loads are different between the OEM and aftermarket parts, how would you go about inspecting the BSK? Would you need to remove the stud from the joint to look for cracks?
The load point isn't necessarily any different then oem depending on how many spacers you stack ( and there is the correct amount listed) but the length of the connecting joint is longer to allow for spacing/adjustment, so the forces are applied to a longer stud overall. If the stud is used with appropriate upgraded steel it should be no less safe then oem. I've never had a failure so I couldn't say what to look for. Id assume it would show signs of bending/binding. its on a ball joint, so it should move/rotate freely back and forth. There is always a horror story or two out there for anything automotive/equipment related, but how many people are running these? Have to keep things in consideration. Stay away from the cheapest option, and go for the ones that are reputable, like Megan, or j's racing etc.

Last edited by s2000Junky; 01-08-2018 at 12:22 PM.


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