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Better upgrade for ap1? Ap2 rear subframe or rear bumpsteer kit

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Old 01-09-2018, 10:58 AM
  #31
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Those Hardrace arms do look way better quality than those that are pictured above that failed.
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Old 01-09-2018, 11:17 AM
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HR makes decent stuff.

I'm trying to find booted spherical rear control arms and spindle bushing replacements for my DD TSX to delete the stupid passive steering.
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Old 01-13-2018, 03:39 PM
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From the goal of reducing toe change, I am not sure why anyone would go through the trouble of replacing the subframe. Your level of success is very quantifiable here. Get a bump steer gauge and confirm your results. You can fine tune your bump steer with the collars and the cam adjuster. With the subframe and factory toe arms, you get what you get.

Now as far as safety and part failures, the inherent design of a BSK makes it more likely to fail than OEM parts. Thats the rub.

Considering the ability to fine tune toe change and ease of installation compared to part risk failure.... I say go bump steer kit.
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Old 01-15-2018, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Apex1.0 View Post
Now as far as safety and part failures, the inherent design of a BSK makes it more likely to fail than OEM parts. Thats the rub.

Considering the ability to fine tune toe change and ease of installation compared to part risk failure.... I say go bump steer kit.
Agreed. The caveat is to log your hours/track time/mileage and replace it BEFORE failure. YMMV - all sorts of factors at play. Seeing how it's a cheap part (compared to what an on track failure could do) and relatively easy to install, i'd replace it together with brake lines, which I do every 4-5 years as a precaution, again brake line failure being catastrophic, for a $100 part.

Use will dictate your replacement intervals, heavy track use with r-comps/hoosier etc. should be assumed to drastically reduce life...
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Old 01-15-2018, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by s2000Junky View Post
The load point isn't necessarily any different then oem depending on how many spacers you stack ( and there is the correct amount listed) but the length of the connecting joint is longer to allow for spacing/adjustment, so the forces are applied to a longer stud overall. If the stud is used with appropriate upgraded steel it should be no less safe then oem. I've never had a failure so I couldn't say what to look for. Id assume it would show signs of bending/binding. its on a ball joint, so it should move/rotate freely back and forth. There is always a horror story or two out there for anything automotive/equipment related, but how many people are running these? Have to keep things in consideration. Stay away from the cheapest option, and go for the ones that are reputable, like Megan, or j's racing etc.

Well...how many OEM arms break in the same way, from the same use? Virtually none.

Its only ball jointed at the arm. Its fixed rigid at the spindle by the nut. How would a longer lever not result in more bending load?

Imagine grabbing the jointed end and pulling it inboard/outboard.

I doubt any current aftermarket company is using STRONGER and more fatigue resistant steel than OEM, for off the shelf solutions.

Its a race part. It requires inspection. Its more likely to break than OEM. That's all I'm saying.

Its definitely more effective at curing bump steer. If Honda felt it was safe enough to just lengthen the stud...they'd probably have done that way instead of designing a new subframe, UCA's and spindles.
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Old 01-15-2018, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by B serious View Post
Well...how many OEM arms break in the same way, from the same use? Virtually none.

Its only ball jointed at the arm. Its fixed rigid at the spindle by the nut. How would a longer lever not result in more bending load?

Imagine grabbing the jointed end and pulling it inboard/outboard.

I doubt any current aftermarket company is using STRONGER and more fatigue resistant steel than OEM, for off the shelf solutions.

Its a race part. It requires inspection. Its more likely to break than OEM. That's all I'm saying.

Its definitely more effective at curing bump steer. If Honda felt it was safe enough to just lengthen the stud...they'd probably have done that way instead of designing a new subframe, UCA's and spindles.
Most of the few failures seen are not at the longer stud, but at the inferior welds at the joint of the arm rather then the type that are forged and not welded. That aside, the longer lever only has more leverage placed upon it if the connection of the apposing lever is placed at its end/tip of said longer lever, which is a no, no. When spacers are used properly, the force is applied to more center of the longer stud. If memory serves, we are talking a max range of up to about 20mm over oem position.

Last edited by s2000Junky; 01-15-2018 at 02:30 PM.
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