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Buddy club N+ or Tein Flex Z

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Old 12-15-2015, 10:02 AM
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I know I'm late to the show but I have Flex Zs on my S2k. Nothing but good things to say about these coils.
Old 12-15-2015, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by tropikal
I know I'm late to the show but I have Flex Zs on my S2k. Nothing but good things to say about these coils.

lol throw salt on my wound why dont you haha jkjk how low did you go? ( mind if you post pics ) and the quality? is it smooth ride?
Old 12-15-2015, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by bonneyfolife
Originally Posted by tropikal' timestamp='1450206133' post='23828725
I know I'm late to the show but I have Flex Zs on my S2k. Nothing but good things to say about these coils.

lol throw salt on my wound why dont you haha jkjk how low did you go? ( mind if you post pics ) and the quality? is it smooth ride?
Pic: https://i.imgur.com/IOA4r8s.jpg

When I bought the car it was already lowered so I can't say how much lower I am from stock, but from the top center of the wheel well to the ground, my front is 24.5" from the ground and the back is 25". I think the quality is pretty damn good, especially considering its price (bought them for like $650 at TunerSports), pretty much what I would expect from Tein. Ride is very good and it has damper adjustment at the top of the strut with 16 settings so it's easy to soften or stiffen up the ride; my setting is 9 front and 11 back.

I've heard these aren't ideal for a dedicated track car (not that I would use them for that) but since my S2k is currently just my daily and the only spirited driving it sees is some nice back roads when I have the time, these are perfect.

edit: Corrected the damper settings.
Old 12-16-2015, 02:01 PM
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Flex Z's have 16 settings, IIRC. The way most Teins are set up is:
Full clockwise is fully stiff. Thats setting #0 or 1. 16 clicks counter clockwise from there is full soft. You can keep turning further counter-clockwise, but you will likely damage the valving by driving on it like that.

Its in the manual. Unless their new stuff is different? 28 settings seems like too many GD settings.

Edit: yes...Tein's website says 16 settings. So if you're using 17 back from full stiff....you are ruining the shock.
Old 12-17-2015, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by B serious
Flex Z's have 16 settings, IIRC. The way most Teins are set up is:
Full clockwise is fully stiff. Thats setting #0 or 1. 16 clicks counter clockwise from there is full soft. You can keep turning further counter-clockwise, but you will likely damage the valving by driving on it like that.

Its in the manual. Unless their new stuff is different? 28 settings seems like too many GD settings.

Edit: yes...Tein's website says 16 settings. So if you're using 17 back from full stiff....you are ruining the shock.
Thanks for pointing that out, I just went back and checked my manual and you're right. Though they still have 28 clicks... would think they wouldn't let you go beyond that but whatever. Gonna go adjust it.

edit: Turns out I was sitting at 9 clicks front/back so even though I was wrong I was within the limits. Thx bby <3
Old 12-17-2015, 02:42 PM
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I have to add, you can also adjust buddy clubs as well(17 settings on race specs)
however making them really soft (3-4 clicks f-r) make the car handle like crap.
But again that totally depends on your preference.
You can get a pretty comfortable ride if you adjust them soft, but your handling won't be quite good.

I now have 10 front, 14 at back, and for daily driving 6 front 10 rear.(0 being full soft 17 being full stiff)
I am not sure about the drop height exactly, car was aligned and corner balanced at West End in SoCal.
Old 12-25-2015, 07:40 PM
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Buddy Club N+ on my AP2, the car was stanced when I got it, but I tired of scraping the nose on every undulation and "middling out" on a normal parking lot/street entrance convinced me to raise the car to stock height.

Absolutely no complaints. If your roads are better, more consistent than Portland Oregon's, you might get away with a lower stance. But as it is, the car is excellent.
Old 12-29-2015, 12:54 PM
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thanks for the awesome input, settled withthe Budy Club N+ and so far no complaints i will get it aligned and update once that happens! Cheers for the awesome inputs
Old 06-26-2017, 09:00 PM
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Seems to be the most recent thread so I'll revive for some experienced initial advice for Buddy Club N+ damper settings for track?

Anyone have suggested initial settings for Buddy Club N+ coilovers with AP1 raw for track-only?
Have tracked my '07 before with tasteful mods, and another awd fast stick car but going this weekend for first two days in "newly" rebuilt "track only" original MY '00 year AP1 S2000.

Bought the car with these recent install Buddy Club N+ coilovers and they were lowered to non-functional slammed on OEM 16" wheels with all dampers set to 15 (max) and car was terrible/dangerous. So I went about raising it 2-3" near OEM height and after some reading, I re-calibrated pre-load to just snug, set a good height for clearance of 225/255 17" upgrade wheels, I set them to +11 front and +9 rear (from minimum or zero setting). That means down from max 4 front and 6 rear.

My goodness, what an incredible difference. I hated my "new" car compared to my fully dialed-in 2007 with H&R's but it is much better now. I'm happy the damper adjusters actually do something but have to assume they aren't linear so trying to figure out my best bet for starting point. Any suggestions on changing these settings for this weekend? Also, any opinions on disconnecting the rear sway bar, say Saturday night before day two? What will change, should I risk such a change without testing?

Planning to change to a nice new set of Tein Flex coilovers perhaps before end of this track season and will be a nice comparison to the BC N+. If anyone has experience with proper track settings for them, would also be helpful. Finally, yeah I know I should get Bilstein's, Ohlin's, KYW's or Koni's and eventually will but year one and perhaps year two, this has been a HUGE investment already so going with what I can get or use reasonably for now.
Old 06-27-2017, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by colnagotifosi
Seems to be the most recent thread so I'll revive for some experienced initial advice for Buddy Club N+ damper settings for track?

Anyone have suggested initial settings for Buddy Club N+ coilovers with AP1 raw for track-only?
Have tracked my '07 before with tasteful mods, and another awd fast stick car but going this weekend for first two days in "newly" rebuilt "track only" original MY '00 year AP1 S2000.

Bought the car with these recent install Buddy Club N+ coilovers and they were lowered to non-functional slammed on OEM 16" wheels with all dampers set to 15 (max) and car was terrible/dangerous. So I went about raising it 2-3" near OEM height and after some reading, I re-calibrated pre-load to just snug, set a good height for clearance of 225/255 17" upgrade wheels, I set them to +11 front and +9 rear (from minimum or zero setting). That means down from max 4 front and 6 rear.

My goodness, what an incredible difference. I hated my "new" car compared to my fully dialed-in 2007 with H&R's but it is much better now. I'm happy the damper adjusters actually do something but have to assume they aren't linear so trying to figure out my best bet for starting point. Any suggestions on changing these settings for this weekend? Also, any opinions on disconnecting the rear sway bar, say Saturday night before day two? What will change, should I risk such a change without testing?

Planning to change to a nice new set of Tein Flex coilovers perhaps before end of this track season and will be a nice comparison to the BC N+. If anyone has experience with proper track settings for them, would also be helpful. Finally, yeah I know I should get Bilstein's, Ohlin's, KYW's or Koni's and eventually will but year one and perhaps year two, this has been a HUGE investment already so going with what I can get or use reasonably for now.
Going from a N+ to a Tein Flex is a *somewhat* linear move. Just use what you've got. Buy an upgrade when you're ready.

N+'s are decent, and there's plenty of fast cars using them. Try measuring travel to set preload. You'll need to remove them from the car to set initial preload. If you previously removed all the preload from them whilst they were still on the car...it was a mistake, and you lost a ton of travel.

Then track the car and go from there. Damper settings and swaybar removal are up to you. Everyone has a different setup/preference.
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