Changing Brake Pads -- Tutorial
#121
Registered User
Awww wacck, I thought there were going to be pictures in this thread.
Can anyone direct me to some pictures or the helms pdf that shows you how to change your pads?
I like to be certain Im doing the right thing whenever I work on my car.
Can anyone direct me to some pictures or the helms pdf that shows you how to change your pads?
I like to be certain Im doing the right thing whenever I work on my car.
#122
hi guys,
So I attempted to swap out my track pads for the oem and it was first time at the task. Anyways, I removed the caliper (front) and changed the pads but I noticed the piston was not flush but didn't need to be retaracted in order to clear the rotor. I wasn't sure if I was going to have to retract the piston so I removed the brake fliud resevoir cap in case of overflow and wrapped a towel around it. I reinstalled calipers but now my pedal sinks almost to the floor before brakes engage. Any advice on how to correct? Not sure what step was missed.
Thanks in advance
So I attempted to swap out my track pads for the oem and it was first time at the task. Anyways, I removed the caliper (front) and changed the pads but I noticed the piston was not flush but didn't need to be retaracted in order to clear the rotor. I wasn't sure if I was going to have to retract the piston so I removed the brake fliud resevoir cap in case of overflow and wrapped a towel around it. I reinstalled calipers but now my pedal sinks almost to the floor before brakes engage. Any advice on how to correct? Not sure what step was missed.
Thanks in advance
#124
Thanks for this DIY.
I am having issues with the rear pistons. I have done brakes many times on my BMW and Jeeps...never had an issue where you had to turn the piston vs. just clamp/push it back in...I'm used to using the old pad and a big C-Clamp and pressing the piston in.
Now this odd rear piston X pattern. No way the 3/8" extension will get any traction as it just rolls out...I can tell that had been done many times. So I order the retractor. I mini $30 part that still isnt a great fit but should work. Except the force required the turn the piston is just ridiculous. I cannot get it to go. Tried manually and with a drill at very low speed. it ends up popping or turning out before making any progress turning it. very unstable.
Any tips? I even had my son help by holding the tool so I can hold the caliper and get leverage...nope. And I thought replacing the suspension was going to be hard, it was easy compared to this stupid piston.
thanks
Jim
I am having issues with the rear pistons. I have done brakes many times on my BMW and Jeeps...never had an issue where you had to turn the piston vs. just clamp/push it back in...I'm used to using the old pad and a big C-Clamp and pressing the piston in.
Now this odd rear piston X pattern. No way the 3/8" extension will get any traction as it just rolls out...I can tell that had been done many times. So I order the retractor. I mini $30 part that still isnt a great fit but should work. Except the force required the turn the piston is just ridiculous. I cannot get it to go. Tried manually and with a drill at very low speed. it ends up popping or turning out before making any progress turning it. very unstable.
Any tips? I even had my son help by holding the tool so I can hold the caliper and get leverage...nope. And I thought replacing the suspension was going to be hard, it was easy compared to this stupid piston.
thanks
Jim
#125
Stick some recon calipers on,are a shit design from 96 I think!!
#126
Go to autoparts stote that rents tools for free (deposit), like Autozone. Get the rear caliper tool meant for this task. It comes with all the 'bits' for each type of caliper.
The right tool makes all the difference in this situation. Some can manage with the chepo tools like the one you bought, but its soooomuch easier with the right tool. Sounds like your calipers are stubborn, and tchepo tool ain't gonna cut it.
Also, loosen bleeder to let excess fluid out instead of pushing it backwards through the whole system, which can mess up abs unit.
Also, you only have to compress calioer enough to get the thicker pads to clear. When its new pads, new rotors that's pretty much fully compressed. But with partially worn pads and rotors,you may not have to compress it much at all if any.
The right tool makes all the difference in this situation. Some can manage with the chepo tools like the one you bought, but its soooomuch easier with the right tool. Sounds like your calipers are stubborn, and tchepo tool ain't gonna cut it.
Also, loosen bleeder to let excess fluid out instead of pushing it backwards through the whole system, which can mess up abs unit.
Also, you only have to compress calioer enough to get the thicker pads to clear. When its new pads, new rotors that's pretty much fully compressed. But with partially worn pads and rotors,you may not have to compress it much at all if any.
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