[QUOTE]Originally posted by PENROD
[B]

I just want to make sure anti-seize is the stuff to use.

Updated per dlq04's corrections. I did the first draft from memory so there were a few details amiss.

Returning the wheel to the same studs as they were will have no impact on wheel balance. The wheel/tire is balanced off the car and installed randomly. How it's placed on the hub is not a factor. It won't hurt to mark the studs but it won't help either. A step you can save.

I can find no literature or other evidence that back bleeding the fluid into the reservoir is not recommended or potentially damaging to ABS systems. The only mention I've found is in regards to back bleeding relates to making it easier to retract the pistons (forcing the fluid out the bleeder vs. back through the master cylinder.

If your fluid is contaminated then it should be changed and if you plan to do this anyway it probably makes sense to bleed the fluid in the caliper out the bleeder rather than back to the MC first. Forcing the fluid out the bleeder rather than back through the system I can only see being a giant mess otherwise.

Always reinstalling the wheel in the same position is a carryover habit from driving with wire wheels for over 30 years. It's critical with them; as for the S2k, just something to consider.

The advice on back bleeding ABS comes from a long time friend, who's no slouch at wrenching. He's with an IRL team at Indy as I write this.

As for opening the bleeder screw, I do so with a bleeder hose and bottle - no mess.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by dlq04
[B]Always reinstalling the wheel in the same position is a carryover habit from driving with wire wheels for over 30 years.

BTW... is this "How-To" going to make its way into the library, under Maintenance?

By the way, there's a little grinding needed in order to use the stock shims on the Porterfield R4S pads. That is, if you want the shims to sit flush against the pad backing.

I'm told this reduces the amount of noise from the pads.

That's interesting, I've done 3 sets of R4S pads and haven't had to do any grinding for the shims. However, on one set of fronts I did have to do a little grinding on the ears of the backing plates to get them to slide easily in the slots in the calipers.

Yeah, that's about all it was. Anyone else probably would have let it go. It wasn't major by an means.

hehe - I actually just did a write-up on changing brake pads:

Brake pad tutorial with photos

Am I the only one who never changes pads without touching up the rotors? You don't have to remove significant material, but it sure is nice to start out with dead-flat faces and no dish or warp. This is not difficult with the proper equipment. If you don't have a lathe you can take the rotors to a good brake shop to turn them. Totally worth whatever they charge, and your new pads will last longer, seat better, sound sweeter.