Changing Brake Pads -- Tutorial
05-31-2003, 05:22 AM
#21
Originally posted by S2K2GO!!!
Am I the only one who never changes pads without touching up the rotors? You don't have to remove significant material, but it sure is nice to start out with dead-flat faces and no dish or warp. This is not difficult with the proper equipment. If you don't have a lathe you can take the rotors to a good brake shop to turn them. Totally worth whatever they charge, and your new pads will last longer, seat better, sound sweeter.
Am I the only one who never changes pads without touching up the rotors? You don't have to remove significant material, but it sure is nice to start out with dead-flat faces and no dish or warp. This is not difficult with the proper equipment. If you don't have a lathe you can take the rotors to a good brake shop to turn them. Totally worth whatever they charge, and your new pads will last longer, seat better, sound sweeter.
06-01-2003, 09:45 AM
#23
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by The Reverend
[B]
This is true that we are swapping between good pads, but I actually do not suggest turning the rotors more often than is absolutely necessary.
[B]
This is true that we are swapping between good pads, but I actually do not suggest turning the rotors more often than is absolutely necessary.
06-01-2003, 09:49 AM
#24
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One more thing- If the old rotors are significantly warped, just buy new ones. Turning warped rotor is a waste of time, because the irregular thicknesses that will result will almost instantly lead to more warpage.
07-30-2003, 09:18 AM
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Thanks cthree, this will help a lot. BTW, I've searched for floor jack placement and haven't found anything that indicates where a floor jack should be placed so as not to damage any suspension parts...Any thoughts on this?
Thanks,
Brad
Thanks,
Brad
09-30-2003, 01:02 PM
#27
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BTW, I've found that on the rears, unscrewing the lower bolt first seems to make unscrewing the upper one easier for some reason.
Another tool that can be useful is one of those ratchet-in-a-box-wrench 12mm's. These puppies save a lot of time on the 12mm nuts as you can just swing them back and forth to loosen/tighten them. They're about $10.
Another tool that can be useful is one of those ratchet-in-a-box-wrench 12mm's. These puppies save a lot of time on the 12mm nuts as you can just swing them back and forth to loosen/tighten them. They're about $10.
05-02-2004, 04:15 AM
#28
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by dlq04
The Helms manual doesn't mention this but I've always heard you do not want to back bleed an ABS system, so even when I'm changing pads, I open the bleeders a touch so the fluid comes out the bleeder instead of going back into the ABS valves when pushing the pistons back in.
The Helms manual doesn't mention this but I've always heard you do not want to back bleed an ABS system, so even when I'm changing pads, I open the bleeders a touch so the fluid comes out the bleeder instead of going back into the ABS valves when pushing the pistons back in.
05-02-2004, 10:15 AM
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May I suggest another reason your Civic master cylinder died? During brake bleeding the pedal is pushed far beyond its normal limits of travel. If the car had considerable wear, a groove develops in the master cylinder and this groove destroys the rubber seals as you pass over it repeatedly during the bleeding procedure.