Characterization of the OE Suspension Springs
#51
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by gernby,Jan 28 2011, 01:19 PM
It really seems like a "good" lowering spring kit should include a set of matched bump stops...
BTW, how did you remove the bump stops? Just slice them off? Or cut the shock rod?
#52
Roll centers are something that I've never understood...
I removed the bump stops by uninstalling the dampers completely. Then I used a hand saw to cut the thick part of the bump stop off.
Fronts:
Rears:
Front on left and Rear on right:
Here is a pic showing how much damper travel I have AFTER cutting the bump stop with the front suspension heavily preloaded. All the weight of the front is being supported by this one knuckle while the back of the car is on 2 jack stands.
I removed the bump stops by uninstalling the dampers completely. Then I used a hand saw to cut the thick part of the bump stop off.
Fronts:
Rears:
Front on left and Rear on right:
Here is a pic showing how much damper travel I have AFTER cutting the bump stop with the front suspension heavily preloaded. All the weight of the front is being supported by this one knuckle while the back of the car is on 2 jack stands.
#53
Former Moderator
I'm not sure how long the Koni's are but be careful, I'd hate to see a post about your fenders being eaten by your tire.
You should really remove the spring out of the equation and check where your wheel is at when you jack it up. Bump stops are used for several reasons but the #1 reason is to prevent your tire from damaging your fenders or hitting something solid on the chassis.
The front wheel can go pretty high up in the wheel well so also be sure to check it when the wheel is turned, you'll notice that the clearance is pretty different. Wheels and tires will play a huge part in this so if you are maximized with one setup the other may not be the same.
I usually check this with just one damper installed without the spring but you can just remove the spring tension by decreasing preload enough so that the spring isn't playing that much of a roll in things and the bump stop is fully compressed.
If you end up having to increasing your bump stop and you notice you're still hitting the stops then you'll either have to increase ride height, spring rate or roll rate.
You should really remove the spring out of the equation and check where your wheel is at when you jack it up. Bump stops are used for several reasons but the #1 reason is to prevent your tire from damaging your fenders or hitting something solid on the chassis.
The front wheel can go pretty high up in the wheel well so also be sure to check it when the wheel is turned, you'll notice that the clearance is pretty different. Wheels and tires will play a huge part in this so if you are maximized with one setup the other may not be the same.
I usually check this with just one damper installed without the spring but you can just remove the spring tension by decreasing preload enough so that the spring isn't playing that much of a roll in things and the bump stop is fully compressed.
If you end up having to increasing your bump stop and you notice you're still hitting the stops then you'll either have to increase ride height, spring rate or roll rate.
#54
My Konis (yellows I think as well) are stock length.
I had the same issue with stock length bump stops. After I cut them down, I could drive the car and not hate my car.
I had the same issue with stock length bump stops. After I cut them down, I could drive the car and not hate my car.
#55
Former Moderator
The bilsteins must have shorter bodies because if I cut the bump stops I'd be wearing away too much fender liner. I already have a hole in the liner from them.
#56
Former Moderator
What you definitely don't want.
You can see I'm nowhere near the stop and my tire is against the fender. I'll need to either add a large stopper or larger bump stop and adjust ride height accordingly. As low as possible without getting in to the stops in steady state cornering.
You can see I'm nowhere near the stop and my tire is against the fender. I'll need to either add a large stopper or larger bump stop and adjust ride height accordingly. As low as possible without getting in to the stops in steady state cornering.
#59
Thread Starter
gernby, thanks. Sorry to be such a dunce -- I'm wondering how you got them off the OE damper shaft itself without cutting the bump stop foam lengthwise.
Did you just cut the damper shaft?
Did you just cut the damper shaft?
#60
All I did was slide the bump stop down the shaft away from the washer, then lightly tapped the washer diagonally away from the damper body with a hammer. The washer popped loose, then I slid the bump stop off.