CoolGuy094

Technically, it was a "free" repair. My CV joints were bad which was noticed after an alignment by a heavy vibration under acceleration at certain RPMs. What I did was remove the rear axles, take the CV joint cups off of the two axles and swap them (driver to passenger, passenger to driver), then reinstall the axles.

I can't say for certain what action could have corrected the issue. With the process I went through it could have been a few things... I removed and replaced the axle nuts and torqued them back down, so it could have been the axle nuts. The axles were removed and replaced so it could have been the way the axle splines were seated in the hub. The lower control arm ball joint was unbolted and then bolted back together, so it could have been that ball joint. The flange between the axle and differential was removed and then re-torqued, so it could have been that. Several areas that could have solved the problem.

jwesleynca

I have a similar rumble/clucking noise from the rear at 40mph+, under acceleration. Goes away when the clutch is engaged, so something with the drivetrain.
I've replaced my struts with coilovers, replaced rear full axles, bearings, upper control arms with adjustable ball joint, and STILL have the problem. Everything has been torqued down (verified with mechanic) and still can't figure it out. Maybe the bearings in the rear differential??
I do have a tear in one of the rear diff bushings, but can't imagine that it would shake the car that much.

Very frustrating spending money with no resolve and seeing my S sit in my driveway in the summertime!!!

CoolGuy094

That really sounds like a cv joint problem. Replacing the full rear axles should have solved the issue. Were they replacements from a salvage yard or totally new axles? It may be worthwhile to swap the cv joints like I did just to see if it makes a difference. If you can handle the work yourself then its basically a "free" repair.

Pootis

I have this same problem but I know mine is the sway bar now you guys say in order to tighten it I need a hex key?

CoolGuy094

You need a 5 mm Allen wrench or "hex key" to stick into the end of the bolt to hold it steady while you tighten the bolt. Use a 14 mm open ended wrench on the bolt.

Mushu.MTL.S2K

My car was making a "clocking" sound when I braked at low speeds. Ended up being a cracked rear diff mount. Replaced and it solved the problem - it started back up again recently and I discovered one of the forward diff mounts (small one) is cracked now. I'm sure once I fixed that one it will be gone.

Pootis

Tightened my sway bar endlinks fixed the problem for me

jwesleynca

The axles (totally new) came from the www.driveshaftshop.com, which has a long history. Also, the issue was there when the OEM axles were installed.

SolidTypeSexy

idk if i have the same problem as you guys, but i have this squeaking sound coming from the rear passengers side. i can only hear the squeaking sound going 30mpa,lower or slowing down and then it stop..once i start driving i can hear it again.

i'm lower on buddyclub n+ with 3.5 neg camber in the rear.
what you guys think?

GavinSSAP1

Interesting, I have a clunking coming from the front passenger side. I can't for the life of me figure out what it is. It doesn't happen all the time, but it does sound like two metal marbles grinding together as described by the link to all the issues with all the model years. Everything on mine is torqued to spec.