Will new Ohlins put more or less strain on my 20+ year old rubber bushings?

I’ve been procrastinating upgrading my coilovers because I think I need to replace all my suspension bushings.

I used to upgrade coilovers first but they are so good on this car and for once, I didn’t want to lower (steep driveway).

but at track speed/force, there is a ton of weight transfer and instability. It’s forced me to be smooth on my inputs (steering, brake, throttle) but I’m ready to tighten everything back up.

for a while (last 3+ years) I was trying to stay in CS for AutoX and the limit was single swaybar. I did purchase a swaybar 2 years ago at solo nats, but it was during a 3am fever dream and I accidentally ordered the rear. I contacted them the next morning and told them it was a mistake and they refunded me. I took it as a sign.

looking for some opinions, should I;
a. Install Ohlins DFV
b. Replace all rubber bushings
c. Upgrade front or both swaybars
d. All of the above

car is 01, stock power, Powerstop PSA, 225 square 71rs on stock 16s. 137k miles.

thanks


Most of the trackday I run on are big speed tracks, Sebring, Road Atlanta, Daytona.

I didn’t do a good job tracking heat cycles but the Stones are still performing brilliantly!

Brakes seem to handle the heat well enough, I would like to add ducting. Another one of my analysis paralysisessss

Once I get the handling where I want it, then I’d like to add power, big tires and aero

Don’t know if it’s my fat tires or if my spring sag a little, I can’t imagine running this car on the streets where I live any lower. This is with about 2.5* of negative camber

 

had these in my cart for Black Friday, then my son wrecked his truck. Glad he’s ok but he F’d my plans.


This is the wheel direction I’d like to go

And the slightly more aggressive 100tw r888

 

I love this car. I have since my brother and I drove one off the lot in 99. Silverston with red interior. I was 17 and once we ripped it around a roundabout in Burlington, MA, I was in love. I joined the Air Force and a year later he totaled the S.

now, 27 years later and I have my very own, I want to enjoy it and make it the best I can, without ruining it.

i tell myself, if I’m going to strip the suspension, then I should clean the under carriage and restore all the LineX and clean and treat all the surface rust, and paint all the control arms, and…..

 

offsets are too high. Need to keep your offsets at +45 to +55. that's the sweet spot, unless you're looking to really mangle up your fenders with some heavy rolling and pulling.

Toyo R888R are garbage tires. pretty much every single 200TW tire released in the last 5yrs is better than any 100TW currently on the market. Tire diameter on the 275/40r17 is massive and will make an already long geared AP1 feel even more sluggish - 275 is also super super pinched on a 9" wheel. I'd keep it to 255/40 for 17s. There aren't really any good options in 17s wider than 255. Need to setup up to 18" wheels if you want a good selection of tires wider than 255 with the correct rolling diameter. As far as compounds - all of these are better options - V730 / CR-S / RE-71RS / RT660+. Don't get the R888r

As far as suspension - skip the sway bars.

I would do both bushings and coilovers at the same time, or if you don't have the money to do both, do the bushings first.
Coilovers - DFVs are compromised for track use unless you start going with a whole bunch of add-on options from SakeBomb (like the shorter rear cups, etc. etc.) - once you start doing all of that, you get pretty close to price for single adjustable MCS or Nitrons - i'd pick either of those over the DFV - more biased towards the MCS.

 

Bull,
thanks for all the feedback. Exactly what I was looking for!

I would have been so disappointed if the toyos were worse than the 71rs. I know I need to do the bushing so I will put that at the top of the list and make a plan for MCS as a next step.

255 is probably fine, I don’t think I want to go to an 18” wheel. I know it’s faster on track but I feel it’s too big for the S.

 

do you recommend the Hardrace kit?

remember reading about them as a good option.

I’ll contact them direct but I don’t see anything that looks like the front lower, rear compliance bushing in that kit. On my car, that is the most noticeably damaged/cracked bushing.

ive listed some gym equipment for sale. Not only will it free up invaluable space in my garage, it should almost cover the cost of the bushings

 

I’d love to just square up on a set of Spoon wheels. I love the color, they are forged and light weight. They just cost $5k for a set. TE37 are also great, albeit a little played out, but also expensive. Here are a couple alternatives;


If I was going to run 18s I’d like to start with something like this to get a feel for it. Although I’d rather pay $500 for heavy wheels with curb rash


These are cheap but kind of heavy…


…and these are cheap and light so maybe kind of weak.



Just wish someone had a nice set of wheels they don’t need anymore

 

If you want to run a square setup I don’t see any benefit to a wheel less than 9” wide unless there’s a class specific rules reason and you’re extremely focused on that.

 

I doubt your bushings need to be replaced. You'd need to check them visually to determine if/which ones are actually worn.

If they actually do need replacement, I would recomend just doing a spherical kit.

I would do the coilovers before the bushings. Its a bigger bang for your buck. And if you need bushings now, you'll still need them after you put on the coilovers. If they're in good shape, then you can just wait til they tear apart before replacing them.

I think you'd be better off building a more track usable coilover using Fortune Auto 510 series. Ohlins DFV are phenomenal, but they're absolutely not what I'd choose for a track focused coilover. Too much compromise and not enough of the right features.

You don't need to spend a ton of money on wheels. But inexpensive wheels in 17x9 really limits your offset options. 17x9+40 is fine...but you will need to mod the fenders. 18" wheels would open up some more reasonable offsets at wider widths. 9.5 to 10 is the sweet spot for rim widths on a stock-ish power S2000. If you don't want to mod your fenders, and you want inexpensive wheels, you're adding too much complexity to the equation.

I'd stick with a 200TW tire. Bridgestone just came out with a new version of the RE71. I can't remember what its called. But worth looking into.