Help! Sbg Wilwood Track day brake kit Endless ME20 pulsation brake petal issue
#1
Help! Sbg Wilwood Track day brake kit Endless ME20 pulsation brake petal issue
Just started tracking my AP2 S2000 with 25,000 miles on it. Original owner had stoptech cryo rotors with Hawk Street Race pads. I roasted the rotors and pads during the event. Experienced both steering wheel and brake pedal pulsating.
I decided to go with Sakebomb Garage Wilwood Track day brake kit with Endless ME20 pads. After installing and going to a track event I’m still experiencing some light pulsating in the brake pedal and in the steering wheel. I took off the rotors and recleaned the hubs but the problem was still there. After a visual inspection I didn’t notice anything out the ordinary. I pulled the ebrake while driving at low speeds to check the rear but no pulsating. So it’s definitely the fronts.
Any suggestions??? New hubs and bearings?
Do you think I could have damaged the hubs while tracking the car on the original bad brakes?
I decided to go with Sakebomb Garage Wilwood Track day brake kit with Endless ME20 pads. After installing and going to a track event I’m still experiencing some light pulsating in the brake pedal and in the steering wheel. I took off the rotors and recleaned the hubs but the problem was still there. After a visual inspection I didn’t notice anything out the ordinary. I pulled the ebrake while driving at low speeds to check the rear but no pulsating. So it’s definitely the fronts.
Any suggestions??? New hubs and bearings?
Do you think I could have damaged the hubs while tracking the car on the original bad brakes?
#2
Two thoughts.
1. Wheels overtorqued?
2. Maybe ebrake isn't enough of a test to rule out rear rotors.
You'll go through rear rotors eventually, and not that expensive. Try a new set to more definitively rule out rear rotors. Not really an expense, just an advance purchase.
Or, use a dial indicator to measure rear rotor runout. You'll have future need for one, so go ahead and buy one now.
1. Wheels overtorqued?
2. Maybe ebrake isn't enough of a test to rule out rear rotors.
You'll go through rear rotors eventually, and not that expensive. Try a new set to more definitively rule out rear rotors. Not really an expense, just an advance purchase.
Or, use a dial indicator to measure rear rotor runout. You'll have future need for one, so go ahead and buy one now.
#4
Lugs torqued to 80lbs
new rotors and pads
I guess it could be improper bedding. When the brakes are cold it doesn’t pulsate as much as when they are heated up. After installing the bbk and pads. I did about 10 stops from 80-20mph until there was a blue hue on the rotors. I never use the parking brake or held my foot on the brake pedal while they were heated up.
I’ll go buy a dial indicator. I know it’s probably not the rotors but I would like to make sure.
My first track event I warped the rotors the first day. I continued for 2 sessions the second day. Could that damage the hubs or bearings.
new rotors and pads
I guess it could be improper bedding. When the brakes are cold it doesn’t pulsate as much as when they are heated up. After installing the bbk and pads. I did about 10 stops from 80-20mph until there was a blue hue on the rotors. I never use the parking brake or held my foot on the brake pedal while they were heated up.
I’ll go buy a dial indicator. I know it’s probably not the rotors but I would like to make sure.
My first track event I warped the rotors the first day. I continued for 2 sessions the second day. Could that damage the hubs or bearings.
#5
I don't think it could have damaged your hubs, but you could have had bad hubs to start since you had problems with a different set of rotors and pads. Get your rotors checked first in a reliable fashion, and go from there. Could be pad buildup issues, even if you bed it "properly".
#6
I’ve had a similar issue, are the rotors tight on the hub? If so, make sure you dremel out the center so that they can sit flush on the hub. Mine had a nasty pulsation until I did that.
#7
It sounds like improper bedding, perhaps even smearing. That happened to me once when I installed a new set of pads different from previous material at the track. It happened first session of the day so I just drove through it. It was a warm day and by the end, the problem had fixed itself. So depending on how bad it is, you may be able to just get the brakes hot enough again to solve it.
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#8
Sometimes you need to do a much more aggressive bed-in process with track pads. You should be able to inspect the hubs and bearings for any play, if they seem fine then going through a 2-3 additional bed-in cycles (similar to what you did already with plenty of time to cooling between) may fix your issue. I do a ramp up to an extremely aggressive bed-in with new rotors and pads and rarely run into this issue on my Spoon caliper gyrodisc 2-piece rotor setup. You can smear the pads in a variety of ways, being too aggressive on the initial stops of the bed-in, not doing enough bed-in cycles, etc.
If you are feeling it through the steering wheel as well I would definitely inspect the hubs and bearings and maybe stop by a shop that knows what to look for. Likely just the rotors/pads though.
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Mark4545 (05-13-2018)
#9
Thanks for the help guys. It was improper pad transfer. I bed in the brakes again it it solved the problem. Had a track weekend last week at Sebring. Car was running consistently 2:43 to 2:46. Should get better with softer tires. I’m running just the Continental ExtremeContact Sport 340 treadware. Ordering a set of RE71Rs.
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